This page describes a new way to make PCBs with a laser printer, water release paper and a laminating machine.

• MATERIAL REQUIRED
• PCB drawing software.
• Laser printer with a resolution of better than 600 dpi or a laser photo-copier.
• Water release paper.
• Green TRF Film.
• Modified Hot laminating machine.
• Etching liquid.
• 320 wet sanding paper.
• Transparent Green spray enamel.
• scrubbing pads.
• Stainless & Copper cleaner powder.
  
  
• DRAW THE TRACES WITH A PCB DRAWING SOFTWARE
• My preferred software is Sprit-Layout form     ABACOM    in Germany. Also check their sPlan schematic software.
  It is for home-brew users as it supports only 2 sided PCBs, but it is so friendly that you will be able to design PCBs the first time you use it.
  
 
• PREPARING THE COPPER CLAD BOARD
• Clean the copper with the powder your wife use to clean her copper and stainless pots and pans (LAGOSTINA Stainless & Copper cleaner) from SEARS. Use warm water and a scrubbing pad (Scotch Bright). Rub vigorously to prepare the PCB in order to have the toner stick to it better.
• Dry it with an old clean rag. Do not use a paper towel, it contains silicone and leaves a residue.
• Finish by wiping with Acetone or Alcohol to remove any trace of grease.
 
• USING A LASER PRINTER, PRINT ON WATER RELEASE PAPER
• This paper is available from PULSAR as TTS paper (toner transfer System) and from DigiKey or from VE2JX in Montreal.
•  There are 3 precautions when using this type of paper:
• Print only on the shiny side. Set the printer to its highest density setting.
  
• Handle this paper by the edges with dry hands.
• Never send a page through the printer if it got wet.

• FUSING THE PCB IMAGE ON THE COPPER
  
  • The FUSING Technique: (hot); The objective is to make the toner image stick to the PCB without using any glue or additive to make it stick. With the application of heat for a period of time with pressure, the toner will become tacky and stick very well to whatever it is touching; a process called “fusing”. This toner will be the resist.
  • PLACE the paper on the bare PCB board, toner on the copper.
  • PASS them between the rollers of the hot laminating machine from PULSAR  or a GBC 95P  or H-200 laminating machine modified to reduce its speed.
  • DIP the board with the paper stuck to it in water, the paper will be released in about 1 minute, run some water over the board to wash off any residual glue(release agent).
  • Pass the PCB in the laminating machine again, this time using Green TRF Film from PULSAR or DigiKey, this will harden and seal the surface of the toner.
  • Using a magnifier, touch up any defect in the resist with a Staedtler 313-2 or 318-2 red disposable permanent marker.
    

• PREPARING THE BOARD FOR SOLDERING:
  
• ETCH the board. I prefer using AMMONIUM PERSULPHATE from MG Chemicals, it is much cleaner than FERRIC CHLORIDE.
• REMOVE the toner with #320 wet sanding paper. Sand with a wood block under running water.
• SPRAY the finished board with TESTOR # 1256 Transparent Green enamel from a hobby shop or PULSAR. Insert components and solder. The unique property of this translucent enamel spray is that when it is subjected to heat, it vaporizes around the soldering pad, allowing the solder make a good joint. .When finished, your "solder mask" will be right up to the solder joints giving you a very professional look, plus you get real circuit protection. The translucent green color shows the conventional two tone effect.

• DRILL THE PCB
• A Dremel MotoTool and a #68 carbide drill will drill the holes nicely, #64 and #60 or 61 are also handy to have. Hold the PCB firmly when you are drilling, if not your carbide drill will break. Do not use a high speed steel drill bit, it will wear out before you are finished drilling your first PCB.
• DigiKey has the carbide drills, but the better place to buy them is at a large Hamfest where they are sold for less than $1.00 US each.
 
• SOLDER YOUR COMPONENTS AND TEST YOUR CIRCUIT
• Use 63/37 small diameter solder. This solder is either liquid or solid, there is no in between pasty state.
 
• GO BACK TO THE FIRST STEP IF YOUR CIRCUIT DOES NOT WORK  ;-)