Last Update: 09-28-2000 11:45pm Eastern Standard Time
Storm Chaser's and Trackers Source |
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STORM CHASING
VEHICLES These are purely my opinions on the right type of chaser vehicles. Some, in fact most will disagree with the choices and reasons for picking these vehicles. If you feel compelled to write your position, and e-mail it to me, I will be happy to post it. Plus, if you are a chaser, and would like to send a picture to me (jpeg prefered or gif) I will post it as well. It doesn't have to have anything on it either, but a skywarn sticker, vanity tag or something simular would help. I have also provide different groups to better serve you.--Thank you---Jason
This is just a beginning so, if you would like to learn more, please come
back to see some of the new additions. In the mean time, here are some other
pages you can browse through.
Group 1: New Vehicles only (1999 or higher) I also recommend installing a second or even a third battery if your going to run extra equipment. Get a trailer hitch in back, and a brush guard up front. Nothing fancy, just enough to protect the front. Get a GOOD set of Driver/Fog lamps. Remove the factory driver lights in this case. It is illegal to have six lights on at once. Also, don't drive everywhere with these lights on, the bulbs can be expensive, and they are too bright for everyday use. Yellow or colorless fog lamps do nothing for everyday driving, look at the box you bought them in and you'll know what I mean. These lights should always have a seperate switch. For SUV users, I recommend putting a Full size spare on the roof of the truck, where it is less likely to be harmed by vandals. It also gives you space either inside the truck or outside the truck depending on your vehicle. A custom storage bin can be made for SUV's and trucks like the F-150 in place of the tire underneath, when you put that spare up top. In my experience, most people of the plains, midwest, and other tornado chasing areas are more familiar with american cars than foriegn. Should you need to make a repair on the road, and need help, it's better to have an american product. Older cars work in this regard too. Because post 1989 cars begin to have complicated computer systems, road side volunteer help can be difficult. I recommend 1983 thru 1988 cars. This can also be applied to parts availability. Since 9 out of 10 cars in the plains is an american product, foriegn parts can be difficult to come by, especially in a crunch (or in the middle of an active chase). Foriegn cars may have better dependibility during normal conditions, but when storm chasing, seems like the american engineers keep chasers in mind. Avoid: Subaru Outbacks--$25,000 and up--Only a bit larger with same equipment as the forester for way much more money. It has very long front and rear overhangs (very front and very rear) which make it possitively dangerous off-road. Heavy and underpowered ( it has the same engine as the less wieghtyt Forester). Audi, Volvo, VW Passats--Over Priced--AWD versions are engineered for dry pavement performance rather than wet or inclement weather (even despite what the commercial says). XC Volvo has no off-road value despite its looks and advertising. Not sure if VW Passat even has a AWD version, but I know that they are not far behind if not offered yet! Toyota RAV-4 and Honda CV-R. Based on the Corolla, and Civics respectively, they are expensive (as much as a mild option Explorer), offer no durablity even for Toyota. They have low-golf cart power, and the interior are stripped and bare. Options are limited, and Transmissions are weak. If you like Jap products wait for they upcoming 2000 Nissan offering.
Nissan Pathfinder--$26,000 and up--Too small!!!!!!! for the price. Not much
bigger than the Suzuki Grand Vitara. Lousy interior, options way overpriced,
Service questionable. Group 3: Don't Like SUV's, try this group!
Recommended:
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