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K1JAW
/ qrp
Hampden County Radio Association
my email

The most important part
of a radio station is . .

THE ANTENNA
When I first became a ham, one of the questions in the novice
exam was "What is the most important part of a radio
station?". The correct answer was "the
antenna", or more accurately, the antenna system. There
are many who believe that for every dollar you spend on your rig,
you should spend a dollar on your antenna system. If you are
a DX'er, this is definitely true. If you are a QRP'er who
likes to go out with his/her radio, the rules might be a little
different. My latest antenna (un-tested) only cost me $7.00,
replacing one that cost me $9.00!
The antenna system is still the most important part of the
radio station, maybe even more so for the QRP'er. Portable antennas range
from wire dipoles, home brew verticals, shortened rotatable
dipoles, and some other specialized designs plus a slew of
commercial antennas that promise to do everything that you want. So what
makes up the antenna system? Everything connected to the antenna
connector at the back of your rig.
Feed line
First is the feed line that connects between you antenna and
your rig, DO NOT SKIMP buying cheap or used feed line
especially for your base station, and at the same time, don't buy RG8/RG213
etc for portable use. If your antenna is a single band, trap, or OCF
type antenna, buy the best RG-58 that you can buy. If it is a
doublet, then there are a whole new set of issues which I enjoy
experimenting with..
How Long? The feed line should
be long enough to reach from the antenna to the
radio. There are some good guidelines to follow. Don't leave
coils of coax rolled up; be careful of trip or choke
hazards, check it before trip - common sense stuff.
How High? My throwing are arm allows me to reach about 20-30 feet
depending on the wind (updrafts sometimes get me close to 30
feet). When I started, I had two pieces of coax. One was 33 feet, and
one was 16 feet. I never had the good fortune of needing
more. I now use something different which is called a
broadside doublet (Cebik), and feed it with 22ga speaker
cord. This is my most "minimalist" antenna.
Antenna
I used a 40 and a 30 meter dipole. Here are the
guidelines that are always broken.
 | A good dipole should be as high as it is long (66' for 40M) |
 | A good dipole should never be less than 1/2 the length,
high (33' for 40M)) |
 | A good dipole should be in the clear |
A 40 meter dipole is 66 feet; I'm happy when the center of
mine is up 20 feet and is somewhat in the clear. This is
where you separate the serious operators from those who are just
having fun. A serious operator will keep hiking or climb
trees. Me, I like the operating part!
 | A dipole can be used on odd harmonics |
This means that a 40 meter (7Mhz) antenna can be used on 15
meters (21 Mhz). This is not totally accurate but it is
close enough for us amateurs. The
exact harmonic will always be a little higher. But the length is also
affected by proximity to the ground and surrounding surfaces
which you know will typically not be that great. So,.. set your portable dipole antenna up in
your back yard, as high as you can throw it, and cut it so that
it is a little low. Mine was cut for 7 Mhz which is the
edge of the 40M band which means in practice it is never going to be a
perfect antenna because I don't operate on the edge. Heck,
at a height of 20 feet in the middle of the woods with several
branches touching the antenna - who needs perfect! By cutting it
that close to the band edge I can also use it near the low end of
15 meters (21.06) and it will be about as good as I need for
reliable contacts without a high SWR. (Separate page)
If your favorite two bands are 40 & 20 meters, then you
might also consider an OCF(OCFD) antenna which works well on the even
harmonics. You will need a light weight 4:1 balun at the feed point
(33% from the ground end). There are other considerations
about using this design but it works well if you are just having
fun. An OCF will never work properly on 15 meters. Read up
on this one before you use it. I did have one at my base
station that I like and use regularly for a year...
If you are trying a doublet, which is a
all band antenna, with a good 4:1 balun and a good tuner, then a
good quality TV 300 ohm feed line works well. (I constructed
two of these before being satisfied with the performance. Now I am
ready to test a third variation.) The main advantage is only having one antenna; the major
disadvantage is the requirement for a good tuner and keeping the feed line
off the ground. How much do you
want to carry?
End fed wire is the most inexpensive
antenna as it connects directly to a tuner to the back of your
radio. An end fed antenna should be a single band antenna using
the formula 468/f Mhz. However, if you would like to experiment
with all band end fed antennas, try using a length that is
non-resonant on any frequency. 39.5' is one possibility.
Some folks believe that this does not require a counterpoise but I
disagree. A counterpoise is a insulated wire that is
connected to the ground part of the antenna connector, cut to the
same length, run out along the ground in any direction. It
is not meant to be grounded!
Always be sure to check your connectors/coax/equipment every
time before going out as
they get more abuse in QRP operation. Getting excited about
going out, arriving at your destination, setting up your
equipment, then finding that something is missing or defective
is no fun!

(Move this out)
SWR - Since I was a kid (long ago), the debate of SWR has
been going on. I have tried to keep this page a little
less technical so here goes. SWR is an indicator of how
well your antenna is "matched" to your transmitter.
Most modern transmitters start to reduce power as the SWR
approaches a level of 2.0:1 . One piece of equipment that you do
need is a good SWR meter that you can build, or purchase at a
reasonable price.. If your SWR
is 1.5:1 or lower, you're in good shape.
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