++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:45:45 -0700 From: Phil Wheeler Organization: Outstanding To: Andreas Hofmann Cc: Tom Hammond =?ISO-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= , elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 and K2/100 questions Andreas Hofmann wrote: >Let me restate my 2nd question: > >I know that I can use the power know to control the power. It would be great to switch between QRP and QRO with a push of a button rather than having to adjust the power knob (I thought that was possible, thought I read this somewhere here). So is there something like that? > Only this comes to mind. If you have both a high power supply plugged into the KPA100 and a low power supply plugged into the K2, it *seems* like you could do what you want by just switching off the larger supply. But turning the knob is no problem for me -- and I usually have only the 20 A supply connected these days. 73, Phil ++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: "'Andreas Hofmann'" , Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 and K2/100 questions Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 13:27:24 -0700 The POWER knob serves as a switch in this case, Andreas. As you turn it town to 10 watts, suddenly the rig switches into QRP mode. The AMP is off and everything acts just like it would as of the amplifier wasn't installed. You get the same high efficiency, the bargraph starts displaying 10 watts at full scale, etc. So you do have a "switch" it's just combined with the Power control. Also, if you run two power supplies - one to the original connector to power the QRP K2 and a heftier one to the AMP - just turning off the amplifier power will put you in QRP mode. Ron AC7AC K2 # 1289 -----Original Message----- Let me restate my 2nd question: I know that I can use the power know to control the power. It would be great to switch between QRP and QRO with a push of a button rather than having to adjust the power knob (I thought that was possible, thought I read this somewhere here). So is there something like that? Andreas ++++++++++++ From: "Don Brown" To: , "Elecraft" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Adjusting power level that KPA100 kicks in at... Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 07:39:20 -0500 Hi The KPA100 kicks in at 11 watts and higher. Below that the amp is bypasse= d except for the low pass filters on the KPA100. You should have no probl= em running digital modes a 5 watts. But if you want to run higher power y= ou should set the power above 11 watts to turn on the PA. There is not a = menu setting to adjust the turn on point of the PA. The PA operates at a = fixed gain and the power is adjusted by ALC action the same way the base = K2 operates. The K2 PA transistors only need to provide a few watts to dr= ive the KPA100. Don Brown KD5NDB =20 ----- Original Message ----- From: John Clifford Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 2:02 AM To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Adjusting power level that KPA100 kicks in at... Greetings, >From reading the manual, it looks as if the K2's ordinary (QRP) PA transistors are used from 0.1 watts up to 10 watts when the KPA100 is attached. Is this true, and if so can this be changed so that if the KPA= 100 is attached the 'switchover' point can be set via menu to a lower power? I ask this because I'd like to be able to run 5w PSK31 or other high duty cycle mode without having to worry about my K2 PA transistors. Also, once in QRO mode, does the K2's QRP PA section stay at 10w steady-state while the gain in the KPA100 is adjusted to provide the additional power? Thanks, - jgc John Clifford KD7KGX Heathkit HW-9 WARC/HFT-9/HM-9 Elecraft K2 #1678 /KSB2/KIO2/KBT2/KAT2/KNB2/KAF2/KPA100 Ten-Tec Omni VI/Opt1 +++++++++++++++ From: "Don Brown" To: "Dave Pomeory" , "Elecraft" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 KAT100 Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 12:17:12 -0500 Hi Yes the firmware will switch out the PA if you connect the power to the n= ormal round K2 power jack. Or you can disable the PA in the menu and use = either power jack. The KPA100 uses a few more ma mainly to run the power = supply for the RS-232, about 380 ma in receive mode with the backlight on= . Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Pomeory Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 11:23 AM To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 KAT100 I'm thinking that I would like to have the k2 qro but also want to go por= table. Can I power the K2 only without the KPA100 when the KPA100 is inst= alled in the k2 and Does the KAT100 draw significantly more power than th= e KAT2? Thanks for the time and info. -- =20 Dave Pomeroy K7DNP South East Washington +++++++++++++++ Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k2/100 question presale Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 07:59:08 -0500 From: Bill Coleman To: "Vic Rosenthal" , "Gary Lee" Cc: On 10/9/02 10:24 AM, Vic Rosenthal at rakefet at rakefet.com wrote: >On a K2/100, power is controlled >in 1 watt steps below 11 watts, and in 10 watt steps from there up to 100 >or 110 watts. So it's easy to operate QRP if you wish. On my K2/100, it's .5 watt steps up to 10 watts, then 5 watt steps to 110 watts. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr at arrl.net Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 +++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 16:59:11 -0800 From: Phil Wheeler Organization: Outstanding To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] Noisy fan Redux My earlier msg said in part: > I've recently noticed a very soft, but eventually annoying, "frying" > noise in my shack. It's source was vague with my monoral hearing. > But I finally tracked it down to the fan in my KPA100. > > I don't recall this sound being there early on, but maybe I'm wrong. Apparently when installing the 2.03 firmware and the new IOC chip, I failed to reset the Fan to nor. It somehow got set to Hi and ran all the time in receive mode. That is likely why I noticed a change. so maybe all is OK. 73, Phil +++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 10:20:41 +0100 From: Mario Lorenz To: Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noisy KPA100 Fan Am 07. Nov 2002, um 16:33:56 schrieb Phil Wheeler: > I don't recall this sound being there early on, but maybe I'm wrong. I > do know that I have not put enough hours on the PA to wear anything out. Well, you seem to overestimate the quality of mechanical parts built in these times. I have seen CPU fans start making noises within 2 weeks. I didn't dissassemble the KPA fan (mine is OK so far) to see what type of bearing it has, but I really doubt its a ball bearing. While ball-bearing fans are generally quieter, they are very fragile. Drop such a fan to the floor, it will look fine. But a couple million revolutions later, the damage will show. The plastic/sinter bearings are particularly vulnerable to dust getting into the bearings, where friction has the obvious effects. Once the fan starts to sound scratchy, it usually cannot be helped. It might be good for quite some time tho. Some oil, injected right into he bearing using an injection needle sometimes helps, but not for long. Once you replace it, you might want to protect it from dust - something like very fine grill cloth perhaps. Mario -- Mario Lorenz Internet: Ham Radio: DL5MLO at OK0PKL.#BOH.CZE.EU Trust the computer industry to shorten "Year 2000" to Y2K. It was this kind of thinking that caused the problem in the first place. +++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 10:59:55 -0600 To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 w/KAT100 - Something you may find Good Morning Folks: I trust everyone had a good Thanksgiving... This morning, I made a change to my K2 (actually REMOVED a mod!). When I returned it back to service, I already DC applied to the KAT100, so I just plugged power into the K2 and then the heavy DC leads to into KPA100, and went about my merry way. Jumped down to 10M (from 20M) and hit the TUNE button... NOTHING HAPPENED...! KAT100 indicated a 1.5:1 SWR which should have been ample to initiate a re-tune when TUNE was pressed. Went into MENU | ATU and found the setting was displaying "ATU --". Went into EDIT mode and cranked on the knob to set the ATU setting to "AUTO"... no go... the only response I got back was "PA ANT 1". Checked to ensure that the PA WAS being recognized... and it was. But still no ATU action. So I did what no self-respecting user would do... I went to the KAT100 MANUAL! And there, in the TROUBLESHOOTING section, was my answer... By powering up the K2 (and possibly the KPA100) while the KAT100 WAS already powered, but before the KPA100 had full power to it, I apparently put the K2 into a situation where it didn't want to recognize that the KAT100 was present. It's one of those 'timing' thangs (sic)...! I stumbled back into the shack, and turned the K2 off and back on... VOILA! Everything began working AS ANTICIPATED this time. Moral of the story... follow Elecraft's suggestions for the proper order of powering up your rig once you have a bunch of options installed. That being, power to the KAT100 first, then power to the KPA100 (if it's gonna be used) and THEN turn on the K2. This should always work correctly. Though some other scenarios will generally work as well, there's always that off-chance that the power-up timing issue might raise it's ugly head. 73, Tom N0SS ++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:28:57 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K2/100 w/KAT100 - Something you may find Tom Hammond NØSS wrote: > Moral of the story... follow Elecraft's suggestions for the proper order of > powering up your rig once you have a bunch of options installed. That > being, power to the KAT100 first, then power to the KPA100 (if it's gonna > be used) and THEN turn on the K2. Of course this is the most complicated possibility, Tom. If the operator is using one power supply for all three, things are a lot simpler! 73, Wayne ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 11:36:52 -0500 From: "David A. Belsley" To: Mike Harris , Elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PA Fan My low-speed fan comes on around 38C. According to an errata correction in the manual, the high-speed fan should come on at 40C. Did you do the "retightening" process? After 10-15 hours of run time, you should go back into the K2/100 and retighten the screws holding the PAs (and the sensor). I would be interested to know from the Elecraft gang whether another retightening at a later time is advisable. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy --On Sunday, December 8, 2002 10:43 AM -0200 Mike Harris wrote: > G'day all, > > Yes, I too am interested in this. Under what circumstances does it > automatically come on "slow"? > > I have been running a QRSs beacon on 40 metres, Ran for 15 nights for 10 > hours per night. Output was set to 11W. Fan only ever ran on high with > the heatsink at 46C. The beacon was used to study the grey line path > between the Falklands and UK, some interesting results. > > When my mod bits eventually arrive and #1400 is in bits I will remove the > cover from the PA and have a good look to see if anything is showing signs > of stress. Will report. > > Regards, > > Mike VP8NO (IOTA SA-002) > GQRP 10148 > K2/100 #1400 +++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 00:38:14 -0600 From: Lee Buller To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 heat sink temp I have been running CW on the KPA100 tonight on 40 around 25 to 30 wpm. The heat sink heats up pretty fast, but doesn't get HOT but gets warm. I am not sure as to when the fan kicks on so I have it on all the time on HI. How hot can the heat sink get before things go haywire? According the manual, the whole thing will go off line if it gets to hot. What are the specs and how hot over time does it get? Anyone have any contest experience with the KPA100 on CW? Lee +++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 09:36:56 -0500 To: "Mike Harris" , "David A. Belsley" , From: Ken Wagner Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PA Fan G'morning: I have been following this thread and rechecked the fan operations on my KPA100 this morning. When fan is set in for "nor" mode, the low speed fan does NOT turn on. The high speed comes on at ~40C and turns off at 37C. The only time the fan runs in LOW speed is when I have it configured "lo-hi", and then it runs continuously in low speed until the temp gets up to about 40C when it switches to "hi" speed. I believe that this is the way it is supposed to operate. 73, Ken Wagner K3IU, K2/100 #920 ++++++++++++++++ From: "N0SA" To: Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 16:14:01 -0600 Subject: [Elecraft] PA Fan I had the original post on the PA fan only coming on at high speed. I = did a recalibrate of the TPA and checked the bias setting. I then hooked = up a dummy load, set the power to 100 watts and keyed the rig via the = keyer with dashes until it warmed up enough for the fan to come on. It = only came on at high speed. I failed to check the temp at this point, = should have done that I guess. I think I will just run the rig in the = LoHi fan setting thereby keeping the rig cooler all the time. Any = thoughts, comments or ideas would be appreciated. Larry N0SA +++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 16:50:22 -0800 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Organization: Elecraft To: Unifiedtx at aol.com Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PA Fan The KAP100 manual is incorrect on Page 50 when it says FAN nor goes to low or high as needed in "nor" mode. The fan only goes from OFF to HIGH at higher heatsink temps in "nor"mal mode. In LoHi mode it runs in Low all the time until the temperature of the heatsink rises enough to turn it to high speed. (This is my favorite mode since low speed is almost inaudible and keeps the K2 inside at a more constant temp.) 73, Eric WA6HHQ ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 14:01:31 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Dominik Bugmann Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: KAT100: Lo/Hi Pwr while TX Dominik, This is a known issue with the K2 + KAT100 combination. In TUNE+DISPLAY mode (autotune override), the KAT100's LO/HI power LEDs are not correctly updated when POWER is rotated between QRP/QRO levels (at the 10W breakpoint). While this shouldn't cause any problems, I'd recommend adjusting the POWER control before doing TUNE. This will be corrected in a future version of the K2 firmware. 73, Wayne N6KR Dominik Bugmann wrote: > > Hi, > > I'm preparing my K2 with KPA100/KAT100 in an EC-2 for the HB9 XMAS and ARRL > 10m Contest. > With TRLog I fire some CQ into my dummyload. While the K2 is on TX I > increase the power from e.g. > 5W to e.g. 20W and I can hear the relay in KAT100 but on the frontpannel the > LED stays green (Low Power). > The LED only switches to yellow (high power) when I'm on RX and go > QRO-QRP-QRO. > > I assume the LED (green / yellow) is not updated during TX and everything > else is ok. > > BTW: while I'm on TX and go from QRO to QRP the LED's are updated. > > Do other people see the same ? Or is it me ? > > 73 de Dominik, HB9CZF ++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 17:24:19 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] reminder to K2/100 owners: tighten PA hardware If you've built a KPA100 option for your K2, and have operated it for a while, don't forget to re-tighten the PA hardware as described in the KPA100 manual. This hardware *will* loosen slightly over time (about 1/8th turn), worsening the thermal bond between the transistors and the heat sink. You should only have to do this re-tightening step once, ideally after the first week or two of use. 73, Wayne N6KR +++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 00:21:27 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: Helmut Usbeck To: Unifiedtx at aol.com Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dressing Up the Back of the K2/100 The only place I've found BNC caps that your refering to is on portable military equipment where they were used as waterproof caps when the equipment was not in use. Try Fair radio or Nebraska surplus. Got several of them years ago WHEN I purchased a signal generator from Fair. They're held to the front panel by a short chain. Removed them because all they did was get in the way when changing test fixtures. As soon as I got my K2 going I polished up a set and popped them on. Some polish up real well because they're silver plated. One way you can use ethernet terminators is with a UHF adapter attached, install on K100 amp. Call CQ at 100 watts and the resistor will open up rather quickly. It can then be used for the purpose you had originally in mind. The terminators make handy little dummy loads and can handle 10 watts no sweat, more if you slide a heatsink from a transistor on it. Regards, Helm. WB2ADT On Sat, 14 Dec 2002 Unifiedtx at aol.com wrote: > Has anybody found some nice looking caps to cover the unused BNC connectors > on the back of the K2, KPA100 and the KAT100-1, replacing the black plastic > ones. I bought some 50 ohm BNC terminators (for computer network > applications) from Radio Shack. I found that plugging in one of these > terminators into the 50 ohm BNC K2 jack loaded down the receiver input > because the 50 ohm terminator was in parallel with the receiver curcuit going > through the KPA100. I saw a BNC cap in the Mouser catalog, but it was a > shorting type, and that certainly wouldn't work on the K2 jack. I wonder if > there is such a thing as a BNC cap without the inside guts. If anybody knows > where such caps can be found, please let me know. Thanks Roy Morris W4WFB > KAT100-1, K2/100 #2225 ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 16:09:29 -0800 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Organization: Elecraft To: rondec at easystreet.com Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Fan Question Hi Ron, The air exits the case at the top of the K2/100 at the front between the heatsink fins. It does an excellent job of stabilizing the K2's internal temperature. If you still want to add auxilary cooling a 3" fan running at half speed placed on top of the heatsink (halfway to the rear and 2/3 to the right) pulling air up and away fromthe heatsink works well. Putting rubber stick on feet on the bottom of the fan will keep it in place and space it correctly for proper air flow. 73, Eric WA6HHQ +++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:32:51 -0800 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Organization: Elecraft To: Don Brown Cc: "Wallace, Andy" , elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re:K2/100 Frequency Stability Please don't do this as it will draw HOT air across the heatsink fins into the cabinet. I designed the heat flow to pull cool air into the case from the rear and for it to exit through the front top heatsink fins and the other case openings. As I noted previously, the most efficient method of adding additional cooling is to move air across the heat sink fins. We have used this for several DXpeditions running high TX duty cycles in very hot environments and it runs the heatsink much cooler, resulting in cooler interior temperatures. If you want to add auxiliary cooling, a 3" 12V fan running at half speed placed on top of the heatsink (halfway to the rear and 2/3 to the right) pulling air up and away from the heatsink works well. Putting rubber stick on feet on the bottom of the fan will keep it in place and space it correctly for proper air flow. 73, Eric WA6HHQ ================ Don Brown wrote: > > Hi > > Maybe someone should try reversing the fan to see if pulling the hot air out > of the K2 would work better. It would make sense that if cool air was pulled > in through the slots in the bottom and over the RF board before it was > heated would keep the VFO cooler and at a more even temperature. > > Don Brown +++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:49:56 -0600 From: Lee Buller To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Fan Source for Auxiliary Fan The PC power supply fans are to big for my K2...or at least my tastes. I like the fans that are on the CPUs. These are the 50 mm fans and run fairly quiet. They will move enough air over the heat sink without blowing you out of the shack. You can lower the speed of the fan by putting a resistor in series and lowering the voltage to 10 volts. Some of these fans come with Molex connectors already and can be use quickly. I mounted two on a piece of aluminum angle stock and positioned them centered on each half of the heat sink. I put some felt self-stick pads on the aluminum stock so I would not scratch the finish on the K2. I dubbed it the K2 Kontest Kooler. You don't need the fan(s) at all for normal everyday use...but you start CQing and running rate...you will heat the K2 pretty well. Lee - K0WA ++++++++++++++++ From: "Don Brown" To: , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 12:10:58 -0600 Hi Don If you changed the firmware for the KAT100 and you got the INFO 201 message then all of your settings will need to be reset. This is because some of the look up tables were moved to the IOC IC to save space in the MPU. This required a hard reset so all of the factory defaults are loaded when first powered on. It sounds like the cal temp is not set up right. Q3 is the temperature sensor. If you used lock washers on the mounting screws they may have cracked the case on the transistor. I usually use a fiber washer on the screw so the lock washer does not dig into the transistor case. Anyway it would be a good time to check the screws on Q1 and Q2 to see if they need tightening. Another thing you may want to do is set R27 20% higher than R26 per the instructions in the KAT100. Measure the resistance from groung to the wiper of R26 and set R27 20% higher on its wiper. Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 11:29 AM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem > For the last couple of days when I power up my K2/100, the fan begins running > immediately, and when I attempt to key the xmtr at more than 10 watts out, I > get a PA hot report as well as high swr. This is into a resonant antenna. > The problem occurs when the heat sink is cold to the touch. When I bring up > CAL tpa on the menu, the heat sink temp shows very high readings. I recently > changed out the firmware for the KAT 100. Do I need to do another temp. > calibration? If so, do I need to reset R6 fully counter-clockwise? Thanks > in advance for any suggestions. > > 73, > > Don W5EI +++++++++++++++++++ From: W5EI at cs.com Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 11:06:07 EST To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem solved Took a close look at Q3, temp. sensor on the KPA100 board. Although I had retightened the mounting hardware two weeks after construction per Eric's suggestion, it had worked loose. It may be that I had not used enough torque, fearing overtightening because problems had been reported with the metal lockwasher damaging the case of Q3. In any event, after retightening the mounting hardware for Q3, the radio powered up this morning with the temperature reported via the CAL tpa menu as the correct ambient temperature. The fan (set to nor) no longer comes on when initially powering up the radio I think that the loosely mounted Q3 might have not been in sufficient contact with the heat sink to report a correct temperature reading. Thanks to all who replied to my question. 73, Don McNallen W5EI KPA100 #2478 +++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: , Subject: RE: [Elecraft] fluctuating power KPA100 Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 22:13:06 -0800 That's normal, Gregg. In "TUNE" the power is automatically reduced to about 20 watts to protect the output transistors while the ATU is adjusted - either automatically in the case of the KAT100 or manually if you are using a manual ATU. To allow you to check the output at other power settings, changing the POWER control position while in TUNE will cause the 20 watt limit to be cancelled, and the output power will change to whatever you have the POWER control set for. Ron AC7AC K2 # 1289 -----Original Message----- When I initially place the radio in tune with the power control set at max the radio only puts out 20 watts. If I turn the power control down the power out increases to the proper level. This happens on all bands. Any ideas? Gregg +++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 23:23:43 -0400 From: Gary Bartlett Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Firmware and tPA setting ? To: rondec at easystreet.com Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net My firmware is 1.07. But I can't access tPa via the PA parameters in the secondary menu, either. I get at it via the primary menu CAL/edit/CAL tPa/edit sequence. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: "'Gary Bartlett'" Cc: Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 10:09 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Firmware and tPA setting ? > What version of the firmware are you running, Gary? I don't have that > option under PA on my K2 with the firmware that came with it last > November (1.06) > > Ron AC7AC > K2 #1289 > > -----Original Message----- > > > Phil: > > I accessed tPa via the CAL menu a couple of times after having run > my rig hard during contests. The internal temp never exceeded 60 deg C, > which is well below the threshold of alarm but slightly above a heatsink > temperature which was comfortable to the touch. > > Gary > VE1RGB > K2 #2519 (and another one on the way) > ++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 20:00:14 -0800 From: Phil Wheeler Organization: Outstanding To: rondec at easystreet.com Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Firmware and tPA setting ? Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: >Well, I just tried it and tPA under "CAL" will, indeed, display the >current heat sink temperature. > >So the manual is incorrect where it says, on page 50, regarding the PA >parameter on the SEC menu: > >"The PA parameter has five possible settings:...tPA allows TUNE mode to >display heat sink temperature." > >I would prefer a 'monitor' position in which it is not possible to >change the calibration if I merely want to see what it's doing. > Me, too, Ron. Maybe Wayne will change the firmware; might be easier than changing the docs :-) >But at >least that works. At the moment I've got a temperature probe mounted >inside the K2 and it agreed with the temperature reported by CAL tPA >after transmitting for a while to heat things up. > >I've been doing some heavy-duty temperature cycling of the K2 and it's >nice to know that it is possible to check the actual heat sink >temperature. Not that the K2 is prone to any serious problems from >overheating, according to Eric. > Still, it is nice to know when the omelet will be done. 73, Phil +++++++++++++++++ From: N2ZDB at aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 10:12:21 EST To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Temp PA in Tune mode This feature was unfortunately removed from the firmware when it was updated for use with the KAT100 Autotuner. It was nice to be able to monitor this while in Tune mode. Michael N2ZDB ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 10:14:55 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] PA temperature checking: CAL tPA Just to clean up any remaining mystery: The latest revision of K2 firmware, 2.03, provides only one way to check the KPA100 heatsink temperature from the menu: the "CAL tPA" function. This is normally used for calibration, but you can also use it to display the heatshink temperature at any time. In older revisions of K2 firmware there was a "PA tPA" function (in the secondary menu). This allowed display of the PA temperature in TUNE mode. This feature was really intended only for our own use during KPA100 development, but we left it in for field test purposes. We then removed it since the CAL tPA function provided an adequate way to check heatsink temperature. (The heatsink cools down slowly enough that you can enter CAL tPA right after transmitting and see what the reading is before it drops.) Upcoming revisions of the K2, KPA100, and K2 Rev 2 Firmware manuals will all reflect this change. The recovered code space has been put to good use. Sorry for the confusion. 73, Wayne N6KR ++++++++++++++++ From: "Richard Stasiak" To: Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 07:48:30 -0500 Subject: [Elecraft] pwr knob position >We are two Danish amateurs using K2s with KPA100 who are wondering if it is normal that the pwr >knob gives an output of 100W in the 13.30(hour) position ? What is the position of your pwr knob for >100W ? >OZ9GC and OZ8CY My K2/100 has the same characteristics. 73 Rick VE3MM ++++++++++++++++ From: "Ken Wagner" To: "Christian M. Verholt" , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] pwr knob position Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 08:45:35 -0500 My K2/100 indicates/produces 100 watts with the power control at the 1500 position. Ken K3IU K2/100 #920 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christian M. Verholt" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 7:33 AM Subject: [Elecraft] pwr knob position ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:11:33 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] reminder to K2/100 owners: tighten PA hardware (one time) If you've built a KPA100 option for your K2, and have now operated it for a while, don't forget to re-tighten the PA hardware as described in the KPA100 manual. This hardware *will* loosen slightly over time (about 1/8th turn), worsening the thermal bond between the transistors and the heat sink. You should only have to do this re-tightening step once, ideally after the first week or two of use. 73, Wayne N6KR ++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: Subject: RE: [Elecraft] kpa100 - wait for the fan? Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 07:15:30 -0700 Just turn it off. The moment power is removed there is no longer a source of heat for the = fan to help dissipate, so the heat sink won't get any hotter than it already = is. Ron AC7AC K2 # 1289 -----Original Message----- QSO over, time for bed. Should I wait for the fan to go off on the=20 KPA100 and then turn it off? or just turn it off? Sam N4MAP +++++++++++++