++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:20:04 -0700 From: Jeff Stai WK6I Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 today! here are my notes on the KIO2 after construction and test - please note that some comments reflect my reaction or personal situation - as they say "your mileage may vary" - my K2 serial number is #525 if that helps: - - Soldering the brass nuts to J1 was easy with the WTCPT at 700 degrees. After I got most of the way through construction I knocked one of the nuts off. Since I had only soldered them on one side of the nut, I went back and did both nuts on both sides. This was easy to do even though the connector was now attached to the board. - - On page 5 I was left wondering if I should install the other caps in the same manner as C14. I opted to not mess with them and not install them all the way down against the board. - - On page 6, when they say "avoid scraping the wire" they mean it! - - Page 8: I know this will sound silly, but I have somehow become quite literal when I read Elecraft instructions ("Hymie! Hop to it!" - Maxwell Smart; "Boing! Boing! Boing!" - Hymie). So when I hit the "at both ends of the cable" on step 8 on this page, first reaction was "huh?". Suggest adding a new step 10 here that reads something like "Prepare the other end of the 8-conductor cable as described above". - - Page 9: On step 1, I would move the sentence "Note that..." in front of the sentence "Insert the wires...". Even people like me with decayeds, er, decades of experience can space out on numbering order. - - Page 9: On step 2... I'm sorry, but I had to bend the wires BEFORE turning the board over - to keep them from falling back out! - - Page 9, the first /!\ note: I used a red Sharpie pen to mark up the 12V connector. No danger of spilling paint and it is permanent. Any permanent marker of any color should suffice as a reminder... - - page 10 step 4: I found that 2.5mm is just about even with the retention hook on my P5. - - page 10 step 6: It is a good idea to continuity test any cut to make sure the cut is really cut. In this case I note that the post-cut resistance was only 1.7 ohms - I did not remove U6 but that would probably give a more positive indication. - - page 10 step 8: Here was my one screw-up... I managed to connect the cap across pins 1 and 7 rather than 1 and 5. If pin 5 had been labelled in figure 5 I -might- not have made the booboo. Just a suggestion. Or mention the numbering scheme in the text" "pin 5 is the second pin down from pin 1 on the right side". Anyway, in the process of trying to fix the misteak, I managed to turn Ctxd into two half-acitors. Replaced with a good old disc ceramic from the junque box. - - page 10: Again, after doing cuts and jumpers, it would be good to test continuity on the TOP side of the board between the pins. Note that checking between pins 1 and 5 of P4 produced a short "beep" on my tester as the capacitor charged. By the way, a dental pick was really useful for this rework, and so were my pointy tweezers. - - page 11: My negative voltage was -10.2..... nominal! I would be interested in hearing the rationale behind the 16.289MHz frequency for the negative voltage generation. - - page 12: OK, I'll say it: Seems like a non-crossing-over female to male extension cable would be OK to use at the K2 end, provided the drive capability is available....? - - page 12: Oh, and my comment on page 8 about both ends of the cable also applies here! - - page 13: In the diagram, it looks like there should be two metal clamps pieces. My kit only had one clamp piece per shell - and that seems like how it is supposed to be. However, I can't say that it clamps firmly enough to the cable to provide good strain relief. With the jack screws screwed in, the cable will fail first at the solder connections if yanked by accident (assuming the K2 remains stationary!). - - page 14: my current was 0.26A without, 0.28A with the KIO2.... nominal! - - page 16: biggest "problem" here, relatively speaking. Referencing the rev B KAT2 instructions, on page 11 3/4" of insulation is removed from the RG-174 cable. This makes for a fairly long piece of braid hanging off of the KAT2 board into space. This seems like a real danger for shorting to the KIO2. I did not find the recommended routing in figure 9 of the KIO2 manual to be sufficient - it simply moved the problem to the other side of the KIO2. I did two things to prevent a problem from happening due to random movement: 1) A couple wraps of black tape around the offending braid (actually, around the whole cable); 2) I used a loose tie wrap to urge the cable to run next to the adjacent vertical spacer on the KAT2. By the way, the KIO2 sits just about one Xacto blade width from the KBT2 bracket. Whew! - - page 17: No way my K2 lid will stand on edge. I use a two inch wide roll of tape as a stand and set it flat next to the K2. This also makes it easier to see what you are doing on the lid. Oh - one more thing - tested it with Writelog v10 and it works GREAT!!! Eagerly awaiting the K2remote program - and thanks! - jeff wk6i ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 20:14:15 -0700 From: "N5WN \(Carl\)" Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 cable construction slight improvement Just built my KIO2 today and remembered a recent comment about the strain relief on the data cable not being tight.... For both cables on the KIO2 I slipped a short piece of Teflon "spaghetti" over the bare drain wires, and then a piece of heat shrink tubing over the jacket of the cable where it transitions to individual wires. This improves the appearance and eliminates the slight chance of a short. On the data cable I used 1-1/2" long pieces of heat shrink which helped to give the extra diameter to get a good fit for the strain relief. It also holds back the white wire and provides a little extra support for the wire after it exits the shell. Carl S. N5WN K2#1241 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 21:37:29 -0000 From: Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 & Win 98 HyperTerminal For those of you who "stay up too late" working on your KIO2 card, beware the bug that lurks in the Windows 98 version of HyperTerminal. It may not not echo typed characters, even if the check box is checked! The "check box" does not work correctly. >From MS TechNet, Microsoft's recommendation is "To resolve this behavior, download and install HyperTerminal Private Edition 4.0 from Hilgraeve's Web site, or obtain it from Hilgraeve Technical Support." For reference the question number is Q192456. I hope this saves someone some sleep. I'll get mine tonite. Logan, KZ6O #1609 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 19:11:47 -0400 From: "Anthony A. Luscre" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 & Win 98 HyperTerminal Save yourself some looking here is the file to download: http://cnet.com/downloads/0-10101-101-3230759.html?tag=st.dl.10101-100-3230759.dir.10101-110-3230759 lrahnz at garlic.com wrote: > For those of you who "stay up too late" working on your KIO2 card, beware the > bug that lurks in the Windows 98 version of HyperTerminal. It may not not > echo typed characters, even if the check box is checked! The "check box" does > not work correctly. > > >From MS TechNet, Microsoft's recommendation is > "To resolve this behavior, download and install HyperTerminal Private Edition > 4.0 from Hilgraeve's Web site, or obtain it from Hilgraeve Technical Support." > > For reference the question number is Q192456. > > I hope this saves someone some sleep. I'll get mine tonite. > > Logan, KZ6O > #1609 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 23:09:34 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rev A Control Board mod for KIO2 David Pratt wrote: > I ordered the KIO2 module kit from Elecraft on 23 June and was quoted > 7-10 days despatch. I am therefore expecting receiving it any day. > > I have modified my Rev A Control Board in readiness. Consequently, I > have now lost my sidetone and am unable to use CW unless I use another > receiver for monitoring. Is there an easy way of getting the sidetone > back until my KIO2 and v2 firmware arrives without having to undo the > mod to the control board completely? I am getting CW withdrawal > symptoms with having to limit my activity to fone! Sorry, David, you'll need to suffer without CW until the KIO2 shows up, OR undo the modification. I suggest that others awaiting the KIO2 learn from your experience and NOT do the mod first ;) I'm sure you'll find the KIO2 and new firmware worth the wait! 73, Wayne N6KR +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 21:12:54 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Cal PLL "Info 232"?? Hi Steve, This indicates that you don't have the frequency counter connected to test point 1 (VCO), or that you're not on 40 meters. It could also indicate a malfunctioning counter probe (or probe plugged in backwards). The error message is mentioned in the K2 rev. 2 firmware installation instructions, but we'll also add it to the main manual. 73, Wayne, N6KR Steve Ratzlaff wrote: > > Hi. > About 2 seconds into the Cal PLL run, gives this error message. My > manual does not list this message. > Anyone know what this means? ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 10:27:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Studer Subject: [Elecraft] KI02 debugging questions I built the KIO2 and darn it. It doesn't work at all. So I am attempting to debug it. The DC voltage chart shows U1-5 as -8 volts. I get +13 volts. Then U1-12 on chart shows +5 volts. I get 0 volts. The chart shows J2-1 as 0 volts. But the schematic shows a direct hardwired connection to U1-12. And the chart says this pin should be +5 volts. AARRRRGGGHHHH! I have checked my connections so many times my head hurts. I did try connecting the computer but of course that doesn't work since I am getting a solid 13v dc level on teh data output from teh K2. I used a oscillocope and see exactly no pulses on output line at all. Mike AB6CV K2 #1974 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 11:23:47 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KI02 debugging questions Mike Studer wrote: > The DC voltage chart shows U1-5 as -8 volts. I get +13 volts. > Then U1-12 on chart shows +5 volts. I get 0 volts. > > The chart shows J2-1 as 0 volts. But the schematic shows a direct > hardwired connection to U1-12. And the chart says this pin should be +5 > volts. AARRRRGGGHHHH! The chart is incorrect -- thanks for finding this (the hard way!). J2-1 should be 5 volts, not 0 volts. If you're getting 0 volts here, my guess is that the Control board mod has not been made correctly. You can verify this by checking pin 25 of the microcontroller (U6 on the Control board). It should also be 5 V. If not, you probably have a short to ground on this line somewhere. Disconnect the AUX2 board from the control board and see if it goes to 5 V. If not, the short is on the control board. Let me know if this helps. We'll get an errata sheet item out right away regarding the chart error. 73, Wayne N6KR +++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 11:43:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Studer Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KI02 debugging questions On Sun, 15 Jul 2001, Wayne Burdick wrote: > Mike Studer wrote: > > > The DC voltage chart shows U1-5 as -8 volts. I get +13 volts. > > Then U1-12 on chart shows +5 volts. I get 0 volts. > > --- snip --- I did what you said and find the problem to be on the Control Board. Mine is REV A so I had to do the mod. I checked voltage on pin 25 of U6. It is 0 volts. I even disconnected the jumper wire I had to add for the REV A mod, and still 0 volts. I removed U6 from Control board and did a resistance check from U6-25 to gnd. It shows infinite resistance (open). I even stuck the old firmware version of U6 in and I still get 0 volts on pin 25. Wierd huh? Mike AB6CV K2 #1974 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 11:56:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Studer Subject: [Elecraft] Control board REV A mod tip For those of you doing the KIO2 module and find that you need to cut the circuit board run on your Contol board here is a tip for you. After you cut the run. Hold the board in front of a bright light source. You should be able to easily see if the run is cut correctly. It will show as a light seperation in the dark line that was the original run. Mike AB6CV K2 #1974 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 14:01:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Studer Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KI02 debugging questions On Sun, 15 Jul 2001, Wayne Burdick wrote: > Mike, > > Do you have the PORT menu entry set to ON? Yes, Port is set to on. > > Also: check the voltage right at the microcontroller pin itself. You > could have a bad socket. Right at board it is 0V. Hmm the plot thickens, U6-24 is 0v. Which the K2 manual says should be 5 volts. I also see in the K2 Transceiver manual (page 15 of Appendix E) that U6 pin 25 should be 0 volts. Mike AB6CV +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 18:08:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Studer Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KI02 debugging questions I got it working! I am not sure exactly how. But I did find that the sidetone source had switched off U8-4 which I had set it to previously. Gosh, you can't beat a fix that doesn't need a soldering iron! Now I did find some wiring errors in the cable but that was relatively easy to fix. And I re-flowed pins 24 and 25 on U6 on the Control Board. Thanks for all the help Wayne! Mike AB6CV K2 #1974 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 00:14:04 +0700 From: "Jerry Bliss" Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 - HyperTerm; How to use? Randy (AA6XM), offered me this CookBook procedure for Hyperterminal use.... thought I should share it with the Reflector readers in case there are others needing the info. Thanks, Randy ================================================== Receipe for KIO2 with Hyperterm sauce Turn on K2 Plug I/O cable into a comm port 1) Start Hyperterm 2) It will open with a window asking you to name your connection 3) Name it K2 (or anything you want) and select one of their lame ICONs 4) It will pop a new window asking where you want to connect 5) Tell it 'Direct to Comm x' where x is the comm port that the K2 is connected to 6) It will pop a third window asking for port settings ... set as follows: bits per second = 4800 data bits = 8 parity = None stop bits = 2 flow control = none 7) goto 'File' Dropdown .... select properties 8) goto 'Settings' 9) select 'ASCII Setup' 10) check 'Echo typed characters locally' 11) go back to 'File' & select 'Save' 12) click in the terminal window and type SW01; the K2 should change bands to next higher 13) type AI1; the K2 should send you a status msg The next time you open hyperterm, you should see the ICON labled K2 (or whatever you called it). Just double click that and it will start. Be aware, several of us (including me) have had problems getting hyperterm to echo typed characters on the screen in win98. Bug in the software that shipped with Win98. You shouldn't have this problem since you just downloaded it. There isn't a backspace. It sends the characters as you type them. If you make a mistake, type the semi colon. (the ; tells the K2 that the current command is complete) The K2 will ignore the bad command and then you can just type the correct one. Happy cooking Randy - AA6XM K2 #1580 ++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 20:19:41 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Tom Cc: Elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Firmware upgrade Tom, Whether installing the new firmware does an EEPROM initialization depends on how old your firmware is. But just to be safe, write down your BFO and menu settings (including settings in the CAL menu, i.e. S-HI, S-LO, and CUR). Then follow the instructions in the Rev 2 Firmware Manual. If you didn't receive this with the kit, you can print it off the web site. 73, Wayne Tom wrote: > > Hi gang, > The mailman stopped by today with the KI02 interface. This comes with the > firmware upgrade which I intend to install before building the KI02 (I can > do that, right?). > > Is there anything I should be aware of, before removing the old firmware? > For example should I be writing down settings, etc.? > > Thanks in advance for your comments > > Tom McCulloch > WB2QDG > K2 S/N 1103 +++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: From: "W. Wright, W5XD" To: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build completed. RS-232 no go yet Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 14:50:44 -0000 The hint I needed to solve my RS-232 port problem came from Gary, AB7MY. Its working now. This info is in the manual, but I didn't read it correctly, nor did I follow it correctly, nor did I notice its importance when I was scouring the manual for hints after I knew I had a problem. IMPORTANT: Note that the sidetone source MUST be set to U8-4 when using the KPA100 or KIO2. This switches the sidetone source from U6-25 so it can be used as a data pin. This entry is accessed by editing the St L menu, and then pressing the DISPLAY button to toggle between U6-25 and U8-4. Thanks, Wayne, W5XD ++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Bruce D. McLaughlin" To: Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 12:41:23 -0400 Subject: [Elecraft] RS 232 now working! Well, sometimes it is the simplest and obvious things that will do you in. I'm glad to say the RS 232 port in my new KPA100 is now working fine. It turns out there was nothing wrong with the port. But the darn jack screws were not allowing the plugs on either the K2 or the computer to go in all the way. It was simply poor or maybe no contact with the rig and perhaps the computer. I disassembled the plug shield, removed the jack screws and plugged in the connectors directly without the jack screws. Now it works. I haven't decided whether to leave it as it is or fool around with the shield/jackscrew combo to see if I can get a better fit. Any thoughts on the subject? Bruce - W8FU +++++++++++++++++ From: "Dale Wiese" To: Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RS 232 now working! Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 13:33:29 -0500 Bruce, I seem to recall I almost had this problem. Go back and look at the jack screw and shell assembly. It is easy to get the screws in too far forward. The flange on each jack screw must go between the two screw guides in the shell - not in front of them between the front guide and the DB-9 connector. If assembled correctly, the screws should slide freely back and forth 1/4" or so. This assumes Elecraft has not changed parts vendors. 73, Dale N9XD > wrong with the port. But the darn jack screws were not > allowing the plugs on either the K2 or the computer to go in > all the way. -- snip -- ++++++++++++++++ From: "Bruce D. McLaughlin" To: "'Dale Wiese'" , Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RS 232 now working! Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 21:01:09 -0400 Ah ha! I was wondering about that. As I had it assembled, there was virtually no back and forth movement and that caused a problem. I will look things over. Thanks for the tip. Bruce W8FU -----Original Message----- From: elecraft-admin at mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-admin at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dale Wiese Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 2:33 PM To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RS 232 now working! Bruce, I seem to recall I almost had this problem. Go back and look at the jack screw and shell assembly. It is easy to get the screws in too far forward. The flange on each jack screw must go between the two screw guides in the shell - not in front of them between the front guide and the DB-9 connector. If assembled correctly, the screws should slide freely back and forth 1/4" or so. This assumes Elecraft has not changed parts vendors. 73, Dale N9XD +++++++++++++++