++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 09:09:42 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: [Elecraft] KBT1 field test report (K1 internal battery) [I sent this to QRP-L yesterday but meant to copy it to our reflector, too. -- W.] A fine afternoon was had by Charlie (W4NJK) and myself as we hiked up to Edgewood Park, about 25 miles S. of San Francisco. WX was great--73 degrees, just a bit of a breeze--and we could see across the Bay from our 800' elevation. Our goal: to test the K1's internal battery pack under field conditions. This trip was hastily put together, so I forgot a few things: bug repellent, BNC "L" for the K1 antenna jack, weight for tossing the wire in a tree, and something to sit on. We made do. And I have a nice list for next time. We tossed 20' of hookup wire into an oak tree using Charlie's water bottle as a weight, then laid out one radial of similar length. The KAT1 found a 1.1:1 match on 40 and 20 meters. Starting voltage for the KBT1 battery pack was 11.0 V. (Apparently 8 freshly-charged NiMH cells will stay well above their nominal 9.6 V rated level for quite a while.) We also checked maximum power output on each band. On 20 it was 5.4 W, and 6.7 W on 40. This was at a key-down voltage of 10 V. Now this is strictly unscientific, but we were in QSO mode for most of two hours, using 4 watts on 40 and 20 meters, and the battery voltage dropped from 11.0 to 10.3 V. From previous observation of NiMH discharge curves, I know there's a long, slow drop from 10.5 to 9 volts, and my guess is that we could have operated for over six hours before reaching the K1's minimum operating voltage (about 8 V). We didn't have time to find out, but I'll be running the batteries down during normal shack operation over the next couple of days to see what the real number is. Charlie had a long QSO with Doc, K0EVZ (South Dakota), plus VE7BXO. I then hooked up with Steve, W7QC/M (a great op, BTW). Immediately after that QSO, I was called by John, K7FD, who was using the PTT switch on his mic to send CW. (I was surprised to hear him sending so slowly, and didn't recognize the call at first!) The biggest surprise of the afternoon was finding our intended departure route blocked by a rattlesnake, est. 3 feet long, nearly hidden by tall grass as it slithered past a log. Another item for the list: snakebite kit! We went the long way instead. Our conclusion was that the KBT1 really did its job. It's neat to have the battery and tuner in the box. The Paddlette K1-custom paddle (that attaches to the tilt stand) also worked very well in the field. Folks, if you have to do exhausitive testing of ham gear, this is the way to do it! 73, Wayne N6KR P.S. We still haven't set a price or shipping date for the KBT1, but we will in the next two weeks. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 15:19:24 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KTB1 - charging "Brian B. Riley, N1BQ" wrote: > Wayne, will the KTB1 interface to the K-1 include charge control > circuitry via the standard power in connector? or will it be a separate > connector for recharging? Hi Brian, The battery compartment provided by the KBT1 is not fully sealed. So, for safety reasons, we are NOT recommending that the batteries be charged internal to the K1 at all. NiMH cells in particular get *quite* warm when recharged at the fast rate, and trickle-charging them is a very questionable endeavor. Instead, you can get the batteries out of the K1 quickly using the quick-relase replacement top cover (just two thumbscrews). It takes about one minute to get the batteries out of the holder and into an external charger. We felt that the K1 would never be used like an HT (recharged and used portable every day), and we hope that having to remove the batteries and recharge them (or put in Alkalines) will not prove inconvenient. Note that there is room on the back of the top cover to put in some type of external connector and charger circuit. Again, we DO NOT recommend this, but the room is there if you want to try it. The KBT1 kit comes with an ultra-low-drop reverse-polarity protection diode, so you can have an external supply connected at all times along with the battery. The diode drops only about 0.2 V at 400 mA (about half that of a regular power shottky diode). The kit also includes a recessed on/off slide switch to disconnect the batteries off when you're not using them, or for travel. 73, Wayne ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2001 15:05:17 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: [Elecraft] KBT1 AA battery size note We're revising the diameter of AA cells that can be accomodated by the KBT1 battery holder slightly upwards, to 0.56" (14.2 mm). We just received some Maha 1700 mA cells of this size. They're slightly larger than the Radio Shack 1600 mA cells, but they *do* fit. There are some AA cells on the market that are significantly larger--14.4 to 14.7 mm as specified by the manufacturer. These will most likely not fit in the holder. 73, Wayne N6KR +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 16:38:36 -0700 From: "N7SG K7FD" Subject: [Elecraft] Making Progress w/ KBT1 Whoa...don't judge a speaker by its...cover. At least until the new cover enclosure is in place and on. The replacement speaker is NOW working to my satisfaction...it just required the 'box' to be closed up with the new top...lots of volume now. I did move the neoprene spacers to the 'side' and now the battery fits in snug (as opposed to pushing the battery holder down on top of the spacers and then trying to close the top lid down). Like I said, Murphy lives just down the hall... BTW, pushing down on the battery assembly will slightly torque it all out of 'perfect' Elecraft position, making the slide switch not line up with the switch hole in the new top. This was my first clue something in my understanding of the neoprene spacers was incorrect. Be forewarned! At this point, all seems A-OK. Sorry I dialed 9-1-1... 73 John K7FD ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 17:36:54 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT1 Issues Hi John, Thanks for the feedback on the KBT1. I'll try to answer your questions. First, there is no need for a bumper between the speaker and the top cover. The speaker has a thin nonmetallic ring at the top of its frame, and the speaker press-fits against the top cover. This is a standard mounting technique for small, round speakers. The 1/8th inch soft washer fits between the speaker and the battery bracket; this should put suitable pressure on the speaker to hold it firmly against the top cover. (I believe you'll find this to be the case when you install the new cover). As for your comment regarding the sound level, note that any speaker's output will be some 10-20 dB lower when not placed against a baffle. So again, I think you'll find that the output is quite satisfactory once the top cover is in place. The speaker is a little smaller than the original and is about 1 dB less sensitive (due to the smaller magnet). But I and others have used the K1 with this speaker in the field with excellent results. Regarding the self-adhesive battery spacers: thanks for pointing out the need for a manual clarifcation here. These spacers must be attached to the end of the battery bracket, not the bottom (i.e., near the switch, not in the battery tray). Once they're in the proper position, they will hold the battery holder very snugly. I can see where the manual was ambiguous in this regard. If you had them attaced to the bottom surface rather than the end and they get damaged when you remove them, we'll certainly replace them, no charge. As a result of your comments, there will be an errata sent out with all subsequent KBT1 kits--thanks again! 73, Wayne N6KR N7SG K7FD wrote: > > After installing the Battery Option for the K1.... ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 11:59:01 -0700 From: "N7SG K7FD" Subject: [Elecraft] Kool K1/KBT1 Now that I worked through minor bugaboo's with the K1 battery option, I am really hot-to-go for a portable run somewhere this weekend. Hope my chores cooperate! Once the battery option is installed, the K1 is about the coolest looking rig around. Everything is really packed in there...ATU, NB, batteries...I can hardly wait to show it off tomorrow morning at our local qrp gathering! Yes, even my K2 is a little jealous... Tonight Glenn WA7SPY and I are planning a K1/KBT1 to K1/KBT1 qso on 40m...both running approx 3 watts as per the manual. Last night, I fired the K1 up at 5pm on a full charge and by midnight my voltage was still at 9.9v...mostly listening however. The K1 speaker vibration on strong signals was bugging me a little. Wayne pointed out that the non-metallic material of the speaker rests against the top, not metal on metal. But I tried a fine bead of clear silicon around the leading edge anyway. Don't waste your time, it didn't improved the vibration/resonating... BUT, I did do something else and got good results. As supplied from Elecraft, the speaker rests on a foam rubber 'O' ring...however, there is still some metal on metal contact as the speaker sits in the assembly's cut-out. To buffer this, I placed a small folded over piece of kitchen Saran Wrap over the cut out before pushing the speaker into place. Now there's no more metal to metal contact...and it really has seemed to fix my vibrating speaker problem. YMMV! Have a pleasant Friday the 13th, 73 John K7FD ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 13:08:40 -0700 From: Phil Wheeler Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kool K1/KBT1 Mike, It is a new problem, related to the KBT1. I experienced it, too. Then John told me of his plastic-wrap fix and I tried it. It worked for me, too. Now I can crank the gain up as high as I want on a strong station and there is no unpleasant vibration. 73, Phil W7OX Mike wrote: > > N7SG K7FD wrote: > > > The K1 speaker vibration on strong signals was bugging me a little... > > But I tried a fine bead of clear silicon around the leading edge > > anyway. Don't waste your time... > > John, > > Is this vibration problem different from the vibration that some of us > experienced and fixed by putting foam tape on the front of the front > panel 2-D fasteners to put pressure on the four corners of the front > panel board? Or is it a new problem that came about with the KBT1 > installation? > > 73, > Mike / KK5F +++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:23:46 -0700 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT1 AA Battery Size - Important Hi Jerry, Thanks for the info. We're getting some Maha's right now to check. I do know the NiMh Panasonics are too large. 73, Eric Jerry Haigwood wrote: > > Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote: > > > Newer AA-size batteries from some manufacturers (Panasonic, Maha, etc.) may > > exceed the standard AA battery diameter specification. Batteries over 0.55" (14 > > mm) in diameter should not be used with the KBT1 because they will not fit in > > the standard AA-cell holder supplied. Radio Shack NiMH cells (among others) are > > the correct size. > > > > 73, Eric > > Hi Eric, > I have used Maha NiMH AA batteries for some time now and have never seen them > to be oversize. I recently purchased some Maha (NEXcell) 1600ma AA NiMH batteries > from Thomas Distributing and they are the > correct size and have the normal button on top. They fit a standard battery holder > just fine. The cost of these batteries was also reasonable, $2.25 each if you buy > 8 or more. I can recommend Thomas Distributing as a reputable place to do > business. So, before scaring people away from Maha (NEXcell) batteries, take a > look at the web site and decide for yourself. > > -- > 73, Jerry Haigwood, W5JH, Peoria, AZ USA > web page http://www.haigwood.org +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 13:41:13 -0700 From: Phil Wheeler Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question about Nickle Metal Hydride Batteries and K1 Glenn, This url may have the info you want. http://thomas-distributing.com/nimhbattery-faq.htm Phil W7OX ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 13:54:18 -0700 From: "N7SG K7FD" Subject: [Elecraft] KBT1 Speaker Vibration Some of us who are enjoying the KBT1 option reported hearing the replacement speaker resonating at certain volume settings. In my case, I discovered that a piece of plastic wrap laid between the metal speaker and the aluminum assembly's cut-out provided a buffer and solved the problem. As a temporary measure, about all you can say about 'Saran Wrap' is 'it works'. For a more permanent fix, I've placed a piece of electrical tape around the speaker where it fits through the cut-out with equally good results. I like this solution much better... 73 John K7FD ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 06:28:10 -0700 From: lhlousek Subject: !Re: [Elecraft] K1 Mojo Go Juice Hi Doc, <<>> I got my GP1800 batteries at http://www.greenbatteries.com/ along with their PowerHaus charger. Most chargers take at least two hours to charge 4 batteries and some take as much as 12hrs but the Powerhaus does it in 1 ~ 1.5 hrs or so. The charger is a reasonable size but it does have a separate wall wart. Another feature of the Powerhaus is that it will charge just two cells so if you are a turbo mod user you can charge the two extra cells. The charger and 8 cells cost $60 including shipping. That'd buy a lot of AA alkalines at Costco! A set of alkalines will run about as long as a freshly charged set of NiMHs, maybe a little less. The charger is larger and weighs more than 16 AA cells so depending on what kind of battery ops you intend to do alkalines may not be a bad solution. Radio Shack sells 1600mAh NiMH batteries and chargers as do most big consumer electronics stores that carry digital cameras. Make sure to check how long it takes for the charger to do the job. Remember, you gotta charge 2 sets of 4 batteries to fill up the K1. Elecraft has warned that some high capacity cells are physically too large to fit in the K1's battery holder. The GP1800 and Radio Shack 1600s fit properly. Lou W7DZN ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 08:13:27 -0400 From: "Frank Madden" Subject: [Elecraft] Re: elecraft-digest V1 #951 I have followed the K1 battery discussion with some interest. I know of one type of battery which has not been discussed. That is the rechargeable alkaline. I do not know if they fit, but they do have some assets. They are 1.5v and 1900mah. Eight batteries will yield 12 volts. Their cost is less than $1 per Ah, where NiCad and NiMh are over $5 per Ah. The only negative I am aware of is they are only good for approximately 25 charges. The are more environmentally friendly than either of the other choices. The chargers are available for 8 AA's. I have used such a pack for my Norcal 40A for some time. It provides good service. 73 Frank W4WFM +++++++++++++++++++++++ ate: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 13:02:07 -0700 From: Phil Wheeler Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solved: K1 Internal Battery & Top Cover Leo Starrenburg PE1OBG wrote: > > > after installing the internal battery option in my K1, the new > topcover > > shows a slight bulge. > > > > hi All, > > turned out the pressed-on nuts in the sideframe didn't support the > aluminum batterybracket > directly, but was resting on the series diode near the switch. Moving > the diode a little inwards ie: away from the sideframe did the trick. > Thanks for that, Leo .. I will check mine today. Phil W7OX +++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 17:30:25 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: [Elecraft] KBT1 Builder Alert: battery holder insulation Insulating the KBT1 Battery Holder from the Battery Bracket APPLICABILITY This builder alert applies to ALL buyers of the KBT1 option for the K1. BACKGROUND The battery-retension springs on the KBT1's 8-AA cell holder normally sit safely inside the outer edge of the holder's plastic body. A typical distance from edge to spring is 1/16" (1.5 mm). However, one KBT1 builder recently discovered that one of the springs was displaced so that it was very close to the edge. This may have been due to a manufacturing error, and we will be carefully inspecting all stock of these parts. Since the battery bracket is nominally at ground potential, an exposed spring on the holder could cause a short within the battery pack. All KBT1 owners should take the precautions described below. STEPS REQUIRED 1. Remove the batteries from the holder. Look closely at the springs and other contact material. If any spring is near the edge of the plastic holder, bend it back into position. 2. Using the battery holder as a template, form a U-shaped insulator from very thin but stiff nonconducting material (acetate, vellum, thin paper card stock, etc.). Insert this insulator between the battery pack and the aluminum battery bracket. The ends of the "U" shape should wrap upwards around the flat ends of the battery holder (where the springs and contacts are located). A notch must be cut in the insulating sheet to accomodate the holder's wire leads. NOTE: The battery holder (and its insulator) should ONLY be installed as shown in Figure 6 of the KBT1 manual. The ends of the batteries must face towards the front and back of the K1, not the sides. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 19:33:04 -0700 From: "N7SG K7FD" Subject: [Elecraft] re: KBT1 Builder Alert: Protective Sleeve - Photos After reading Wayne's KBT1 Builder Alert, I decided this was something that needed attention, and pronto. The following webpage shows the solution I came up with, utilitizing the acetate vinyl suggested in the Alert: http://www.teleport.com/~cqdx/acetate.htm 73 John K7FD, K1/78 and K1/52 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 14:17:16 +0200 From: Hippenmeyer Paul Subject: [Elecraft] KBT1: audio sound improvement Hello K1'ers The KBT1 is great. A very compact, an ideal solution for backpack. Yet, my KBT1 had a bad audio sound with the speaker - a lot of distortion. With the following easy change the sound becomes perfect. A small gap (abt 0.5mm) between speaker and top cover seems to be necessary. - - Remove top cover and place it upside down - - Place the speaker at the top cover and mark the circumference with a pencil - - Take 4 plastic pieces abt 5mm long, 0.5mm thickness e.g. end of a cable tie - - Remove the speaker from the top cover - - Place the 4 plastics over the pencil line, each 90 degrees separated. Ajust the long side of the plastic toward the centre of the speaker. Fix the plastics with tape. - - Install speaker and top cover If necessary, i can mail you a photo. Hope, this helps someone. 73 de paul hb9axl ++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 16:15:38 -0500 From: Mike Subject: [Elecraft] KBT1 Completed. I just this afternoon put together the KBT1 that I bought several weeks ago from Eric at the Huntsville, AL, hamfest. I installed a thin strip of tape around the speaker magnet to prevent metal to metal rattling, as others have suggested. I also pasted some speaker grill cloth on the cover over the speacker cone. I'm using 1800 mA-hr NiMH cells. Seems like a nice package. I noticed that the VFO frequency shifted, as one would expect, with the installation of the metal battery bracket. It's pretty hard to readjust VFO L1 with the KBT1 in place. It might be worthwhile to have a small cutout in the metal bracket so that the turns on L1 can be reached. Mike / KK5F ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 04:52:18 -0700 From: lhlousek Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy with K1 battery option? Hi Tim, I've used the internal battery option in my K1 for camping, hotel/P and even air mobile ops. The K1 with it's internal ATU and battery makes a really nice, compact, self-contained setup. I usually run 3 Watts or so when using the internal battery. I have the 1800 mAH GP NiMH batteries and have operated for over 4 hrs without getting close to their limit. I've also operated using alkaline cells and got at least several hours out of those. I wish I had some better battery life data for you but I don't. Others have done a much better job of measuring battery life in the K1. For charging, I use one of two 4 cell NiMH chargers that I have. One came with a digital camera and I bought another from Green Batteries. Look for one that gives you a decent charge rage for the high capacity NiMH cells. Some will take over 8 hrs to charge 4 cells so that's over 16 hrs for two sets of 4! One of the chargers takes about 4 hrs to charge 4 cells and the other takes a little over an hour. Lou W7DZN ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 08:52:17 -0700 From: Tim and Nancy Logan Subject: [Elecraft] Feedback om K1 KBT1 Hi folks (good morning Mr. Hammond :-)) - A few weeks ago I asked what experiences people had with the K1's internal battery. I got some mixed reactions, primarily based on operator preferences. My own concerns were the smaller speaker and the lack of fastening screws on the top side of the new lid. I talked myself out of it and put off building it..........until this weekend. NOW It is built and installed and I have to say I think it is pretty slick! In fact I'm surprized at how much I love the total portability it creates. And now with the 4-band module, the K1 is truly a traveling marvel. I have a matching grey Palm Paddle which I fastened to the rear side of the lid. For my hand size, this allows convenient sending from the side of the rig - using the rig itself as a stabilizing base. Grab a piece of wire and maybe some earphones and you are SET!!.....whether a backpacker or briefcaser! The sound from the smaller speaker is just fine - not sure I could tell any difference if I had to. Second, the lid design works out well - it fits snug and the unit feels solid. I did make one change - I left out one washer under the switch so it would stick up a little higher thru the lid. In my case this option is now a permanent part of the rig. However, if you ever decide you don't like it - it takes about 5 minutes at best to put the original top on! I took Elecraft's recommendation on the Radio Shack charger and 1600mAH NiMH batteries. I do have one question though - these batteries seem pretty darn warm (you could almost say hot) when they come out of that charger - is this characteristic of such batteries? They are indeed being charged in the proper time etc - but the heating concerns me. Regards to all, Tim Logan KB7OEX/AE +++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 08:26:52 -0700 From: Bruce Grubbs Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feedback om K1 KBT1 Hi Tim, Yes, it is normal for NiMH cells to become very warm at the end of the charge cycle. I have a 10 AA cell pack that I use externally with the K1, and a Maha charger. The charger has a magnetic heat sensor that ends the charge if the batteries become too hot. When the cycle ends, the battery pack is almost too hot to pick up with bare fingers. 73 Bruce N7CEE +++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 09:06:35 -1000 From: John Buck Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feedback om K1 KBT1 NiMH batteries may get warm during charging because their internal resistance is higher than NiCads. But do not get them hot to touch. If they are ending up hot to the touch at the end, either you are charging them with too much current or your cut off is too late and you are overcharging. In either case you are shortening the lifetime of the batteries significantly. In addition, if the battery is getting hot during charging due to high current it probably will not be accepting a full charge. NiCad Chargers are not suitable for charging the NiMHs if they get the batteries hot. My best charger runs at about a 2 c rate and the battery ends up cooler than at the start if it was warm from a rapid discharge. It uses a voltage (-Delta) cutoff. Another detail is that if you continue to supply a trickle charge current to an NiMH, you will be overcharging and degrading the battery. This is unlike NiCad which can withstand a small trickle charge (0.01 to 0.03 c or so) indefinitely. 73, John KH7T Bruce wrote: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feedback om K1 KBT1 With conflicting advice it is usually best to go to the source. Here is Duracell's recommendations on charging from: http://www.duracell.com/oem/Rechargeable/Nickel/methods.asp I'm sure other manufacturers have their own recommendations. I saw in couple of place that a temp rise to around 45 C (113 F) is normal. There certainally is warm to the touch - hot to some. Duracell - see below - likes a safety cutoff at 60 C. Also take a look at the stuff at http://www.duracell.com/oem/Rechargeable/Nickel/gencharg.asp Charging Methods Recommended Charge Procedure: ·For fast charging and optimum performance, Duracell recommends a three-step procedure: Charge at 1C rate, terminated by using dT/dt = 1°C (1.8°F)/minute Apply a C/10 top-up charge, terminated by a timer after 1/2 hour charge (optional, not required) Apply a maintenance charge of indefinite duration at C/300 rate ·The recommended charge procedure should be used with a backup temperature cutoff of 60°C (140°F). Alternate Charge Procedures Include: ·Low-rate charge (~12 hours): Charge at C/10 with a time-limited charge termination. ·Quick charge (~4 hours): Charge at C/3 with a -V = 10 mV/cell. ·Fast charge (~1 hour): Charge at C/2 to 1C rate with either -V, or T termination. ·Trickle charge: Constant charge at C/300 rate to maintain full charge. 73 de Larry..........WD3P in MD http://www.qsl.net/wd3p ++++++++++++++++++ Subject: [Elecraft] K1 battery connector and strain relief Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 14:05:27 -0800 From: lhlousek Elecraftisti, I wanted to be able to remove the complete internal battery pack from my K1 so I installed an inline connector in its leads. I used Deans connectors which are little, 3 pin, high current, in-line connectors used in R/C and available from hobby shops. There is enough room in front and to the left of the battery area to stuff the excess wire and connectors. I found that the positive lead from the battery pack was showing signs of fraying where it is soldered to the switch/diode . The wire has little strain relief and is subject to repeated bending and stress whenever batteries are removed or installed. I unsoldered the red wire, took another piece of red wire and soldered it to the switch/diode with the wire running toward the back of the radio. I then took the end of the wire and routed it toward the front of the radio by going around and behind the other leg of the diode and then tie wrapping it to the black lead. The new red wire and the existing black wire were soldered to the male Deans connector. Now the solder joint receives no direct stress when manipulating the battery pack. Lou W7DZN +++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:12:31 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: "Bob Lewis (AA4PB)" Cc: Elecraft List Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K1 battery and freq shift Bob, The bracket shifts the frequency a little, but that affects only the VFO range, not the calibration. The dial still shows the operating frequency accurately regardless of how much the bracket shifts the range. (It's just a frequency counter, and you have already calibrated it.) If you lose the bottom end of the band by a kHz or two, you can readjust the turns on the VFO a little. Again, this won't affect dial reading accuracy--just the range. 73, Wayne N6KR "Bob Lewis (AA4PB)" wrote: > > When I place the aluminum mounting bracket for the battery option into > the K1, I observe quite a noticeable shift in frequency. Even though > the dial can be recalibrated with the bracket in place, there will be > a change in calibration if the bracket changes position any while > changing batteries. Anyone else observe this? Does it cause any > detectable operational problems? ++++++++++++++++++++