++++++++++++++++++ Note that there are several kits that for the Rev A to B conversion... See the K2 Rev A to B kit ++++++++++++++++++ From: "Rod N0RC" To: , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: RFC11 change to toroid for Rev B Update Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 12:06:30 -0700 Rod, et.al. See if these pictures help: http://www.frii.com/~rwc/k2_a2b/ I used the bumper from the L-33 replacement (cut down) to mount RFC-11 securely. Working on my A to B conversion. Many thanks to the Elves at Elecraft who worked so hard to get the kit here before Christmas. ***Happy Holidays*** 73, Rod N0RC ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 11:24 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Re: RFC11 change to toroid for Rev B Update > Hello! > I am in the process of doing Rev B mods & trying to find best position > for RFC11 which is now a toroid. The screw on the bottom that holds the > standoff is actually in the way. Guess I will mount the torroid just to the > rear of the screw, so it is flat on the board. I will also put a piece of > electrical tape under the toroid. Hope this is OK. ++++++++++++++++++ From: WA9GQT at aol.com Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 14:53:37 EST To: rod at n0rc.us, df7tv at arrl.net, elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: RFC11 Change to toroid for Rev B Update Thanks to Ron & Thomas for the info. Happy Holidays! 73, Rod WA9GQT K2 #1900 KPA 100 +++++++++++++++++++ From: "Rod N0RC" To: Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 17:40:44 -0700 Subject: [Elecraft] SN 2006/Rev B WOW! What difference. Most notable features: o sidetone, very smooth sweet tone o The low voltage-drop reverse protection diode. o Frequency stability improvements of the BFO/PLL But _the_ best, and my favorite, the filter symmetry. In addition to the Rev B. mods, I added the matched crystal set. I aligned the filters with Spectrogram, the CW plots are nearly mirror image, and flat, about the center frequency. There is no frequency shift of a zero beat tone as I cycle through the various bandwidths, and CW/CW-R After careful tweaking, the Upper and Lower SSB settings sound nearly identical. (Tested by zero beating an AM signal (WWV) and switching between Upper to Lower sideband) This mod kit is a must have for anybody with a K2 SN below 3000. Like I said, WOW! *** Happy Holidays *** 73, Rod N0RC +++++++++++++++ From: "Andrey Stoev" To: , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question re Grill Cloth Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 23:37:45 -0500 Hi Frank, The speaker cloth is hold in place by the friction between the speaker and the top cover, no need to puncture it, just follow the Elecraft's instruction. The speaker has some sor of a ring on the very edge of the membrane. It seems to be made from cardbord paper and it acts as a gasket. When you install the speaker and use all 4 screwes to attach it flat to the top cover you'll see that the "gasket" is the only thing that presses flat against the cover and if the speaker cloth is installed between it and the cover it will be hold tight in place. Dont worry, is not going to fall out of place and makes the instalation much faster and cleaner. Of course instead of triming the cloth you can puncture it but again you'll see that the cloth is held by the presure created from this ring and not from the 4 metal corners of the speaker, which are not even touching the top cover. 73s ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2002 9:12 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Question re Grill Cloth > Hello All and Happy Holidays: > > I'm just about completed with the Rev A to B mods on my K2. It took me much > longer than I expected as there were quite a few of them. It all seems to be > working nicely. > > I've got a question regarding the lst mod i.e. the grill cloth. The way I > read the directions, the grill cloth is cut small enough so that it does not > touch the fibre washers. Therefore, the screws that mount the speaker do not > puncture the cloth. It's merely held in place by friction between the > speaker and cabinet? Is this correct? Why not the screws puncture the cloth > with the speaker on top? Is the cloth taught enough that it won't move? > > Thanks in advance. > > Frank, W4FMS +++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 07:51:54 -0600 To: W4FMS at aol.com, elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question re Grill Cloth Frank: >I've got a question regarding the lst mod i.e. the grill cloth. The way I >read the directions, the grill cloth is cut small enough so that it does not >touch the fibre washers. Therefore, the screws that mount the speaker do not >puncture the cloth. It's merely held in place by friction between the >speaker and cabinet? Is this correct? Why not the screws puncture the cloth >with the speaker on top? Is the cloth taught enough that it won't move? I believe this was done to help eliminate any chances that you (anyone) might cause a strand of the mesh to pull improperly. If you feel the need to use holes, I see no reason not to do so, but the method Elecraft has provided works well. Sometimes, trying to place holes 'just' in the right (aligning them) place can result in the material beng 'pulled' slightly to one side or the other, producing is a less than satisfactory result. 73, Tom N0SS ++++++++++++++++++ From: "Don Brown" To: , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question re Grill Cloth Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 09:17:36 -0600 Hi The grill cloth from Elecraft is fiberglass and difficult to make a hole in it. A soldering iron does not melt it. The way the instructions describe work better than trying to punch holes in it. Don Brown ++++++++++++++++++ From: "Douglas Westover" To: "Parker Buckley" , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone missing Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2002 10:15:27 -0800 I had a similar problem when I first installed the 2.03/1.07 firmware. Regardless of what sidetone source I selected I got NO sidetone (I haven't done the control board mod). I powered down the K2 and then powered it back up and the sidetone magically reappeared. Go figure. 73, Doug W6JD ----- Original Message ----- From: "Parker Buckley" To: Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 9:17 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Sidetone missing > In preparation for upgrading to Revision B, I just changed > from firmware MCU 2.01, IOC 1.02 to 2.03/1.07. In the > process, I lost my sidetone. I tried changing sidetone > source as suggested, but don't get anything with either > source. All other indications normal. No other mods done > to the rig, other than the 160 board. SN 2636. Thanks in > advance for possible help. > > Parker WD8JOL ++++++++++++++++++ From: "Don Brown" To: "Rod N0RC" , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] IOC Firmware REV Question Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 07:59:08 -0600 Hi The 1.07 IOC is required for the KAT100 not the KPA100. The KPA100 will work with 2.02A and later although I think you need to upgrade the SSB controller to 1.07 also. The KAT100 needs 2.03d or later and 1.07 IOC. When you do this firmware upgrade the K2 will do a hard reset so all of your filter settings and other user settings will need to be re-setup. The reason for this is to save room in the main controller. Some of the lookup tables are now in the IOC and transferred to ram over the AUX buss when needed rather taking up room in the main controller. Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rod N0RC" To: Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 7:36 AM Subject: [Elecraft] IOC Firmware REV Question > Hello, > > When is the 1.07 Rev of the IOC required? > > The K2 Rev B upgrade instructions say the IOC upgrade "...may be > needed..." and "...will be explained later...." [Page 3 second > paragraph], but the explanation is not offered. After sifting through > the Elecraft web site, it seems the new IOC firmware adds (at least) > KPA100 support, and is only needed if the KPA100 is added. Correct? > > My IOC F/W is 1.02, the rig is operating FB, or did I not notice > something? > > ***Happy Holidays*** > 73, Rod N0RC ++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 20:28:25 -0800 From: "John, KI6WX" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PLL range after BFOMDKT ? To: Elecraft Mailing List Nick; That range is reasonable, and is greater than some folks have acheived with this mod. You only need a range of 9.002 kHz to tune to the bottom of the 160 meter band. -John KI6WX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nick Frost" > Dear Elecrafters; > > After performing the BFOMDKT, the PLL > range on my K2 is 10.96khz whereas the manual > states an 11.5khz range is minimum. Is this > acceptable or is there a fix for the reduced > PLL range after the BFOMDKT install? (R19 > on the bottom of the RF board on my K2 is > 2.678 Kilo-ohms and is between pins 7 and 8 > of RP2.) > > Thanks, > -Nick ++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 09:38:47 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: Glenn Maclean Cc: Elecraft List Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Rev B upgrade questions > The instructions state for Revision XC only which to my understanding are > field test K2's. My RF board has Rev A 199 printed on it. I am finding some > of the values of components to be different.. For example: R1 and 2 on my K2 > are 470 ohm not 220 as recommended. R50 is 1/4 watt not the 1/2 watt > recommended.Should I change these to the Rev B values??? Yes. > On the control board it states for XC units to change C31 from 0.1 to .047. > My C31 is .0.1 (104) Should I change it?? Yes. > Do I need to put the 10K resistors on RP2 pins 1-2 and 3-4? Yes. Apparently there are some rev A K2s that still have the older rev XC parts in these cases. We'll update the instructions. 73, Wayne +++++++++++++++ From: "Glenn Maclean" To: "Elecraft List" Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 21:29:04 -0800 Subject: [Elecraft] I learned about that from doing Rev B I ordered and received my Rev B up grade kit for my K2 S/N 323. I accomplished the Rev B mods including the VFO temp stability mod. I put my K2 back together and found my PLL oscillator freq was extremely low in Cal FTR on TP3. I spent the afternoon trouble shooting my problem.. Here is where I goofed up. My K2 had solenoidal (cylindrical) inductors for L33 and L31. They both look identical in size and color. It is very difficult to see the value. I ended up installing a 39uH inductor which is to be discarded from L33 at L31. Thank God I did not empty the trash today. I was able to dig through the trash and find the 10uH inductor and installed it at L31. My K2 is now functional again. Wayne you may want to make a note of caution not to mix these removed inductors up in the next instruction manual for Rev B up grade to older K2's Glenn Maclean WA7SPY +++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: "Jim W7RY" From: "Jim W7RY" To: , , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 A-to-B upgrade question (RFC11) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 18:56:36 -0800 I used a little dab of hot glue to secure mine... The instructions also call out to install an insulator on the inside of the bottom cover... I wound mine with the regular 85% of wire covering the torroid. 73 and good luck! Jim W7RY P.S. You most likely worry to much Bob.... :) (Most folks do).... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 6:33 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 A-to-B upgrade question (RFC11) > Page 6 of the Rev C version of the document "Upgrading the Elecraft K2 > to Revision B" calls for the replacement of RFC11 with a user-wound > toroid. > > Were one to wind this toroid in the customary fashion with about 3/4 > of its circumference covered with windings, mounting it on the underside > of the board, in my opinion, makes it (potentially) mechanically unstable. > With gravity, earthquakes, mobile operation, etc., I'd think the toroid might > eventually make contact with the sheet metal beneath. > > I see three ways around this: (1) Ignore it because Bob is clearly worrying > too much, (2) wind the totoid with about 50% coverage so when you solder > it in place it will be more stable, or (3) anchor the toroid in place with > some > silicone rubber sealant. > > Inputs from all are welcome as always. > > 73, > > Bob WA4FOM +++++++++++++++++ From: "Rod N0RC" To: , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 A-to-B upgrade question (RFC11) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 20:16:32 -0700 Bob, et.al. See if these pictures help: http://www.frii.com/~rwc/k2_a2b/ I used the bumper from the L-33 replacement (cut down) to mount RFC-11 securely. 73, Rod N0RC Elecraft CC: 0 of 100, started 05-Jan-2003 +++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 23:22:19 -0500 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is this normal behavior (CW filter or BFO setup) Cc: To: "Andreas Hofmann" From: Dave Gingrich K9DC On Wednesday, Jan 22, 2003, at 23:06 America/Indianapolis, Andreas Hofmann wrote: > Hi, > > I just finished the A2B mods and don't recall this happening before. A > CW signal (CW normal, FL1, AF OFF, AGC ON, PRE ON) seems to come back > after I tune the VFO into its 0 Hz tone... Example: > > Tuning down... > 1. 7,061.28 CW signal appears, very high AF frequency > 2. 7,060.12 signal is in middle of passband (used SPOT to zero beat) > 3. 7,059.50 audio signal is at 0 Hz > 4. 7,059.39 audio signal starts to be readable again > 5. 7,058.95 audio signal disappears > > On frequency 4 and 5, I did not expect the signal to be audible. This > makes it very difficult to tune into the right frequency. Something's > gotta be wrong here... I did the filter setup using spectrogram. > > Only FL1 without AF seems to be wide enough to make this issue appear. Sounds pretty normal to me, particularly if you have chosen a low offset (sidetone pitch). That is one of the reasons I chose 800 Hz offset. I actually wouldn't mind at all, if it could be higher, but 800 is okay. But to avoid hearing any signal on the opposite side of correct, you will have to slide the passband up the good side a bit. The other solution (which you have already observed) is to not use FL1. For casual tuning around, I generally use the CW filter set to 1.5 KHz. =========================== Dave Gingrich, K9DC Indianapolis, Indiana USA =========================== +++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 10:47:47 +0000 (GMT) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?David=20Kearns?= To: Elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] A->B mods I've just started the A->B mods and found that I had problems at 7MHZ. The following may help others: The freq. is never exactly the same, but is very close (within .5kHZ) To find if you have a problem tune to the top or bottom of the 5kHz section where the freq is very similar. By changing the freq by 10Hz across the boundary, you will hear a distinct change in note to the RX signal. I used a DDS to produce a CW note to listen to, but any signal will do. If you have a problem it is very obvious. Hope this helps Dave G0HVS #2775 +++++++++++++++ From: "Richard Stasiak" To: Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 21:22:18 -0400 Subject: [Elecraft] K2 A to B mods parts removal - solder popper I just finished up the A to B mods and thermistor upgrade. =20 I held off doing these for a long time because of the parts removal = issues. I only had a large blue solder sucker in my bag of tricks. I = knew that I would have trouble heating a joint with a soldering iron and = getting the solder sucker in close enough to get all the solder out. I = also did not have confidence that I could do the solder wick procedure = and not end up damaging pads or traces. The Hakko unit sounded like a good tool, but the cost of the unit after = conversion to Canadian dollars put me off. Well to get to my point. A few weeks ago I got some advice from fellow = Elecrafters on the GC Solder Popper. I picked up one of these babies = from Jameco (# 19254) for $26.95 US. I have nothing but rave reviews on = this item. It worked like a charm. No problems removing parts at all. = I didn't even cut any parts in half to get them out one lead at a time. = And not one lifted pad or wrecked traces. Talk about a confidence = boost. At the end of the process I even threw in the R99 power = stability mod in as a bonus. I guess the old adage about having the = right tools to do a job is still true.=20 I'm now ready for any mods that you may want to throw my way. BTW I'd like to thank the fellows personally for the great advice about = the solder popper, but I've inadvertantly deleted their emails, so I'll = do it here. Thanks guys!!!! I'd also like to thank the Elecrafters who unselfishly share their = technical expertise in regards to mods and other issues. You sure have = increased my knowledge base and made it fun to have a K2. 73 to all Rick ve3mm=20 K2 #1591 +++++++++++++++++