++++++++++++++++++++ See ALSO K2 Un-modlules ++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 11:07:26 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: [Elecraft] K2 option components Glenn Eisenbrandt wrote: > >I am building the K2 with the NB, SSB, Audio filter , and 160M mods. > >I have started by building the mod boards. When I read the installation > >instructions I see were it is necessary to make changes on the main K2 > >board for each. I dislike removing items from a crowed circuit board. > >Much chance for problems occur. Has anyone built a K2 like this and made > >the changes to the main board as it was built? Hi Glenn, For each of the K2's main PC boards, we've included a section of the manual titled "Option Components" that tells you which connectors (etc.) you can install ahead of time from each of the various option kits. If you have already purchased the options, this is the best time to install them. You should not install any other components or remove jumpers associated with the option kits until you have the basic K2 working. It would cause problems during some alignment steps. Fortunately the number of such modifications is very small, assuming you have installed the recommended option parts during assembly of the k2. 73, Wayne N6KR ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 18:16:30 +0000 From: David Pratt Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 In a recent message, Glenn Eisenbrandt said.... >I am building the K2 with the NB, SSB, Audio filter , and 160M mods. >I have started by building the mod boards. When I read the installation >instructions I see were it is necessary to make changes on the main K2 >board for each. I dislike removing items from a crowed circuit board. >Much chance for problems occur. Has anyone built a K2 like this and made >the changes to the main board as it was built? Many people ask that question, Glenn. It is recommended to get the basic K2 working correctly without the complications of the various option modules. My best advice would be to go through the manuals making a note of any components that need changing and links removing when the options are added. Then solder in those components/links bearing that in mind. That worked for me and there were no problems. 73 David G4DMP ++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Gay Family" To: Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Mobile advice? Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:21:00 -0800 I wrote: > I've got the sudden and unexpected task (opportunity?) > of a 1300 mi freeway solo trip in a Ford F150 ... First, thanks much to all of you who replied to my hurried query. The trip came up suddenly (called to geriatric evaluation of aging parent). That evening ran to Radio Shack and bought a longish CB/10m antenna with the largest, mid antenna loading coil they had, a 210-0806. Next morning local roads are very treacherous and similar conditions listed in Montana info so I switch to wife's Winstar because it has new studded snow tires (very good suggestion on her part). Plunked the antenna in the middle of the roof, ran it to the MFJ 949E, tied the two together with a backpack strap facing me on the right seat, K2 on top, block of wood to prop the boxes up more level, ran the seatbelt through the strap, plugged the K2 into the cigarette lighter and took off. An hour out of town and out of the local icy roads, turn the K2 on and tune around 10m, left hand steering and right hand thumb spinning the flat surface. Works well - don't need dimples or rims. Very first station is an Italian calling CQ loud and clear. Damn near drove off the road; this mobiling stuff may be good. Pulled over to tune the 949 (should've done that at home!) and found I couldn't get the SWR down. I'd cut the antenna to the RS recommended length for 28.3 but that was still too long. Some expletives and pinched fingers later I'd managed to shorten the antenna to good SWR using wrench and pliers (poor prior planning ...). Would've gnawed on it if I'd had to. Italian gone. Then urban traffic and snow packed roads stopped further progress, driving having the only priority. Ever notice how its 4x4 pickups and SUV's that make most of the road-side sitz marks? Once down out in the clear in Montana, I turned K2 on again. Several Virginia stations in the Virginia QSO party are coming in very, very loud, louder than at home (antenna work in order?). Most be all that copper ore in western Montana ground. Call one. Give him the state and he's happy with the mobile multiplier. My very first mobile QSO. Tell him this is my first attempt at mobiling, let alone this QSO stuff, so I'm busy concentrating on driving rather than writing. Probably obvious from my rough operating procedure. A few noisy powerlines go by. Next I hear him work a Colorado station, which I can't quite copy. Then I hear him say its the first K2 he has worked. Call him back and tell him that is his second. He asks what antenna. Tell him. He can't believe its 10 watts mobile through a RS 10/11 mag mount (I can't either). Says he'll have to pick up a K2 at Dayton - commission, Wayne? :-). Then a Japanese station is calling CQ loud and clear. He works a guy mobile in Georgia and I hear both sides. I give him a call and he responds. Again about drive off freeway at 75mph. He is running 100 watts. Who needs Ameritrons? Take an isolated exit ramp and park on the shoulder. He wants the county name. I have no idea; I'm lucky to know the town I'm close to (Missoula). The Georgia guy tells me and I pass it along. He must be considerably more accomplished at this mobiling stuff than I. After my heart returns to a normal beat, I'm back under way. Work another station in the Virginia QSO party. They can't believe its 10 watts mobile from Montana either. Hear a huge pileup and hear the DX station well but he's working split. I can't manage split and 75mph at the same time and the mph has priority. Work a special event station in Wisconsin and a 10-10 station in Texas. Hear another really strong Japanese station in a QSO with a California station but drive behind a mountain before I can work him. More icy roads, flashing blue lights. More elevated heart rates but not due to QSO's. Band drops out by the time roads are clear. Head back mid-afternoon after session with Doc's. News not good (Alzheimer's). Hear very strong Alaska station running 90 watts and both sides of most QSO's for 30 minutes. Getting better at writing and driving. Hear XR0X very strong but only calling 1's and 5's and so on apparently in sequence but no 7's. Where'd that guy learn to count? More DX pileups and splits. Hear a DU calling CQ. I respond and he comes back. Drive behind mountain before QSO really complete so I don't know for sure if he got my signal report. Hear HL4SF very loud but can't raise him before he's convinced the band has dropped out and signs off. Hear a solid UE but drive out of the reception before his current QSO is over. Finally driving into the dark of western Montana I work a New Jersey station for the longest QSO of the trip. I answer his CQ and tell him I'm running 10 watts mobile from western Montana. He wants to know if I mean mobile as in driving or just not at my QTH. I tell him. He wants to know what modules I have, how hard the K2 was to build and what test equipment I needed to build it. I tell him. He asks what the difference is between the K2 and the K1. I tell him. He signs off, I turn of the K2 for good because the road is getting snow covered and slick. My wife's snow tires get me around spun-around 4x4 SUV's, stalled trucks and cars stuck in various orientations in middle of the freeway and rink-quality ice over the next 200 miles to home at 11PM. Dreams of screwdrivers and autotuners dance in my head. That was one heck of a lot of fun; I never would've imagined! Now I gotta transfer those scribbles, some on my hand, into my logbook. Yes, the cigarette lighter outlet, at least in Fords, works to power the K2. Thanks much for the advice. And wow, does the Radio Shack mag-mount propagate the K2 Mojo. This could be addictive. Naw; it is. Thanks for the bandwidth. John. KD7OIU K2 #1932. ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 18:11:03 +0200 From: "Ingo, DK3RED" To: Jim Shaver , Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Option and building Hello Jim, > I'm bugeting for a K2 and need to know is it best to build the options > during the initial build or is it OK to add them on later. Does one waste > time in adding them on later? You can build the main K2 and the options and the same time, but you should testing the main K2 first. If you don't like to remove some part as a reaction for install the options, so use the "adapter" described on the elecraft pages. > Finally, I operate 95% CW at 5 watts (now using the FT-817...BTW great rig.) > What are the most important options to enhance the K2? If you plan to operate EXCLUSIVELY at about 5 watts or less, so I advise the modification on the "binocular" T4 (described in the K2 manual) -- 72/73 de Ingo, DK3RED Don't forget: the fun is the power! dk3red at t-online.de http://www.t-online.de/~dk3red DL-QRP-AG #824 http://www.dl-qrp-ag.de ++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Option and building Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:13:26 -0700 > Hi all, > I'm bugeting for a K2 and need to know is it best to build the options > during the initial build or is it OK to add them on later. Does one waste > time in adding them on later? > Finally, I operate 95% CW at 5 watts (now using the FT-817...BTW great rig.) > What are the most important options to enhance the K2? > tnx for the help.... > 73 > Jim Shaver > KA7MQB > Salem, OR Hi, Jim: You should build and test the basic K2 first, then add the modules one at a time. That is the way the instructions are set up, so that you can most easily find and correct any mistakes or other problems during the build. Some of the modules require that a connector be added to a board in the basic K2 for the module to plug into. If you buy the modules at the same time as you buy the K2, you can insert these connectors into the r-f board as you do the basic build and save yourself a little time adding the modules, but it's not a big deal either way. The biggest decision around what modules to buy depends upon whether you want: A self-contained portable rig or not? QRO and QRP or QRP only? SSB/Digital & CW or CW only? Computer control of the rig important? 160 meter capability or do you like to use a separate receiving antenna? If QRP only, you can skip the KPA100, of course. If self-contained portable is your goal, you will want the battery option and the KAT2 Antenna Tuner. If you need an ATU in any case, the KAT2 is a good choice: fully automatic and built right into the K2. The battery and ATU do NOT work with the 100 watt KPA100 module. You can have both, however. The Battery and ATU mount in the top cover of the K2. The KPA100 amp fits in a separate top cover. You can switch from portable, battery operated K2 to desktop QRO K2 by simply changing top covers. If you think that you might like to explore PSK31 or some other digital mode (or SSB) then you will want the SSB module. IF you like to use a separate receive antenna or work 160 meters, you will want the 160 meter module. If you want to control you K2 with your computer, you'll need the KIO2 module. (It comes built-in to the KPA100, but you must buy it separate if you want computer control for your K2 without the 100 watt amp installed). Most ops like the KAF2 Audio Filter and clock module. It provides some additional audio filtering for the K2. Like most audio filters, it's a tradeoff between narrow bandwidths and ringing. Personally, I don't much like audio filters, so I don't have one. I'm one of those old-fashioned types who likes to use as wide a bandwidth as possible and let my ears to the QRM filtering. The K2's basic i-f filters are EXCELLENT, by the way. I have one set up for 100 Hz for those occasions when I must pull a weak one out of the mud. The filter has a silky-smooth response that has no sign of ringing or other irritations. Finally, there is the Noise Blanker. It is useful from time to time and I included it in my original purchase without hesitation. It is wonderful for killing high-amplitude impulse noise like auto ignition or a cheap lamp dimmer in the area. It is NOT intended to handle the average static crashes of natural QRN, although ops report that it does help at times. I'd include it with the understanding that most ops don't need it 90% of the time, but when it's needed it's worth every dime of the money! Ron AC7AC K2 # 1289 ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 09:46:42 -0700 From: Vic Rosenthal Organization: Transparent Software To: Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Option and building "Ingo, DK3RED" wrote: > If you plan to operate EXCLUSIVELY at about 5 watts or less, so I advise > the modification on the "binocular" T4 (described in the K2 manual) All this gets you is a 20-25% increase in efficiency at 5 watts output. If you don't operate on batteries, this is irrelevant. If you DO operate on batteries, it's actually a very small improvement in battery life because of the small amount of time the key is actually down in an operating session. If you run a modified K2 at more than 5 watts out, you will get much poorer efficiency plus the possibility of increased IMD on SSB and clicks on CW. In my opinion, if you are a QRP-only operator, just set the Power control to 5 watts. Vic K2VCO +++++++++++++++++++++ To: shaverj48 at attbi.com, elecraft at mailman.qth.net Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:01:02 -0700 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Option and building From: k6se at juno.com Jim, KA7MQB wrote: "I'm budgeting for a K2 and need to know is it best to build the options during the initial build or is it OK to add them on later. Does one waste time in adding them on later?" ---------- Build and test the K2 first., but while building it install the "option jumpers" keeping in mind that they will be removed when you install the options. Option jumpers are merely jumper wires soldered onto the K2 PC board(s) so the at the K2 will work without the options. I suggest that you make the option jumpers slightly long so that they may be easily clipped and de-soldered later when you install the various options. ========== "Finally, I operate 95% CW at 5 watts (now using the FT-817...BTW great rig.) What are the most important options to enhance the K2?" ---------- Because you operate mostly CW, the KAF2 audio filter (and RT clock) option is essential in my opinion. If you anticipate noise, then get the noise blanker kit. If you plan to operate on topband, you need the 160-meter kit. The internal battery kit might be useful for portable operation if you don't want to lug along a large 12VDC storage battery. If you plan to control various K2 functions via computer or want to interface your favorite logging computer program with the K2, get the I/O kit (unless you eventually plan to buy the 100-watt kit which includes the I/O option). If you plan any SSB operation at all, you'll need the KSB2 kit. If you plan to use antennas which are not coax-fed (or have a high SWR), then you'll need the antenna tuner kit. There is a "mod" described in the K2 manual on how to wind the final PA binocular toroid for more efficiency at 5 watts. It'll save a few milliamps at that power level and might be a consideration for you if you plan to do much battery-operated portable operation at the 5-watt level. Otherwise, I recommend that you wire that toroid normally (for best efficiency at 10 watts). You can still operate anywhere from about 200 mw to over 10 watts depending on where you set the K2's front panel POWER control. Some of the option kits add a slight amount of current drain to your power supply. I have the SSB, AF filter, noise blanker, and 160-meter options install in my K2. I draw about 250 ma on receive and, with the front panel POWER control set at 5.0 watts (and the binocular toriod wound normally), about 1.6 amps on transmit when using a 13.8-volt regulated supply with my K2. 73, de Earl, K6SE 66 countries and counting with K2 #2622 +++++++++++++++++++ From: "Bob Tellefsen" To: , , Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Option and building Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:32:32 -0700 Jim, Earl's (K6SE) comments are certainly true, but I think he didn't emphasize nearly enough the internal autotuner option. I personally think it is the greatest engineering feat of all the K2 options. I have everything but the internal battery, and I would swear by that ATU. Wayne did a really great job on it. 73, Bob N6WG +++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Francis Belliveau" To: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Option and building Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:55:05 -0400 The one item the remainder of the group has ignored is budget efficiency. Since you should complete the K2 before the options you could buy them later. The thing to watch for is increased shipping costs for multiple shipments, and possible price increases during the wait. One other thing that I have seen mentioned in the past is that at times it makes sense to take a rest from the big boards and put together a small option board. Then the options go in much quicker after the rig is complete because the boards are pre-assembled. Just one other opinion, Fran ++++++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Option and building Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:50:07 -0700 > While building most of the options first may be an OK thing to do - other > than they cannot be fully tested until the basic K2 is complete, and I > personally don't recommend it, I would caution anyone contemplating building > the SSB module before the basic K2. > Why you ask? - IMHO, the SSB option is the most compact option for the K2 - > the board space is very cramped and requires careful soldering in tight > places - making the K2 a good practice kit for the SSB module . > Don Wilhelm - Wake Forest, NC W3FPR I did not find the module manuals up anywhere near the same level of instruction detail for the builder as the basic K2 manual either. They are okay, but if someone is having their first crack at a complex kit building job, the basic K2 is a far better "first step" than any of the modules due to the better documentation and as Don says, more room on the PCB! Also, the basic K2 book has you run some checks just about the time one is absolutely certain he/she must have made a mistake that is going to keep the thing from working. You run the resistance tests or you actually power the partially-complete K2 up and run checks of the circuits built so far. It is a GREAT reinforcement to see things work "as advertised". If you build the modules first, you have NO way to tell if you did it right until you have completely assembled and tested the K2! Ron AC7AC K2 # 1289 +++++++++++++++++ From: "Don Brown" To: "Elecraft" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Option and building Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 21:42:20 -0500 Hi If you want to start out with a practice kit before you jump into the K2 = You may want to build the OHR WM2 at: http://www.ohr.com/wattmeter.htm or the 100 watt dummy load at: http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm These are easy kits to build and very useful when you get the radio built= and need to align it. I agree with Ron. Don't build the options before the K2, same goes for th= e K1. The option manuals assume you have built the radio first so a lot o= f the early handholding is skipped in the manuals for them. The most dema= nding options are the SSB and ATU because of the compact design the parts= are much closer together so they are a little harder to assemble than th= e basic K2. The KPA100 is not to difficult, just a little tedious because= there is more mechanical assembly than the basic radio. All of the other= options are a piece of cake once you have the basic K2 under your belt (no affiliation with OHR) Don Brown KD5NDB 4 K2's 2 K1's all options KPA100 field tester +++++++++++++++++ From: "Mike McCoy" To: "C. van Ravenswaaij" , "Elecraft" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 finished, any preferred sequence on the add-ons? Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 17:58:54 -0600 I would suggest the KSB2 first, then the KAT2. After that (other than your own preferences) it probably doesn't really matter what order they're built/installed. ----- Original Message ----- From: "C. van Ravenswaaij" To: Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 5:39 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 finished, any preferred sequence on the add-ons? > Hi all, > > K2 nr 2915 is alive. > It was a great pleasure to build it. Now on to the add-ons. I have the > KAT2, KIO2, KSB2, KNB2 and KAF2. Is there a preferred sequence on which one > to build first? > Thanks for your input. > > Best regards, > > Cornel > PA3BTS ++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 10:16:03 +0100 To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: "C. van Ravenswaaij" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 finished, any preferred sequence on the add-ons? Hi all, Again thank you all for your response. I will start with the KAT2, then the KSB2 (to be able to use PSK31) and then the rest. Best regards, Cornel PA3BTS ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 12:42:57 -0700 To: "john FRANCIS" , From: Ted Buckley Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options At 08:27 PM 5/21/03 +0100, john FRANCIS wrote: -- snip -- Have the following >options to install now. The K160 KAF2. KAT2, KNB2, and the internal >K2 batterry kit. Anyone know if there is a preferred order for installing >these options > >Many thanks John G3LWI K2 # 3111 John, I don't think it makes much difference, but if I had it to do over, I'd consider installing the KAT2 and K160RX at the same time: both require removing the heat sink. 73, Ted WA7DFD K2 3202 ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:18:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Daniel Reynolds Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options To: john FRANCIS , elecraft at mailman.qth.net I opted for the battery first to get me on the air portable (the K2 being my only rig, and a buddipole being my only antenna). I just finished building my KAT2 this evening, and will have it 'tweaked' at work tomorrow. After that, I plan on building the KAF2. Then I'll top it off with the KNB2. I have about a month left to get everything assembled and set for my ultimate Field Day station. After I pay off my credit card (in the next 12 months)... then I might decide to go for the KSB2 to let me get into PSK31. 72/73, Daniel AA0NI K2 #3421 ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 20:49:17 -0700 From: Bob Nielsen To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options - Order of Building? There are a few places in the K2 manual where it says that if you plan to add certain options you should install some additional components from the option kits which go on the main K2 boards. Doing this will save time later without impacting the basic operation. 73, Bob, N7XY K2 #3273 ++++++++++++++++++