See also Edsyn_Soldering_Station HAKKO_Soldering_Station WTCPT_Soldering_Station and Building Tools2 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 13:40:11 -0600 From: Larry East Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 rookie-builder needs help! At 11:34 AM 7/1/01 -0600, Rod Cerkoney, N0RC wrote: ...snip... > The only >thing I would add, get a "REALLY GOOD" slug tuning tool. The tool >supplied by Elecraft is OKAY, but it has a little flex. A good stiff >tool will help eek out that last little bit of performance. Some time ago someone ... perhaps it was you, Rod ... asked about ceramic tuning tools. There was some discussion, and the general consensus seemed to be that they were too expensive. Well, they are indeed a bit pricey. However, I decided to "spring" for the "four in one" tool sold by DigiKey (part # 243-1014-ND) for $28.97 (it has two Phillips and two flat blades). This turned out to be one of the best tool investments that I have ever made! (See note below for other good tool investments). I was a bit concerned about the ceramic blades being fragile, but they seem pretty sturdy. However, I wouldn't advise using one to "unstick" a "frozen" coil slug -- that is best done with a jeweler's screwdriver (carefully so as not to break the slug!). No more futzing with crummy plastic tools that bend and deform. No more playing "touch and try" with metal tipped tools on ungrounded trimmer caps! WHOOPEEEE!!! These will NOT work on coil slugs that require an Allen-type tool -- but I've had good luck with plastic tools on those. Metal tipped tools usually work OK on "notched" slugs -- but sometimes not (it's also easy to break a small slug by applying too much pressure with a metal tipped tool). Other good tool investments that I have made over the years (in no particular order): 1) Bench top drill press. 2) Two "step bits" (also called "unibits") -- boy, do they make clean holes in metal panels! 3) A good florescent bench lamp with magnifier. (Now I can see where those parts go!) 4) A Dremel tool. 5) A nibbling tool. 6) A good soldering station (Weller WCTP series). 7) Some assorted dentist's picks. 8) A good pair of tweezers. And of course, the usual assortment of screw drivers, Allen wrenches, cutters, etc. 72/73, Larry W1HUE/7 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 14:02:41 -0600 From: "Rod Cerkoney, N0RC" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 rookie-builder needs help! Lerry, great minds think alike...(or some such things... - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry East" To: "Rod Cerkoney, N0RC" ; "Mike" ; "roysteve" Cc: Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 1:40 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 rookie-builder needs help! ... > Some time ago someone ... perhaps it was you, Rod ... asked about ceramic > tuning tools. There was some discussion, and the general consensus seemed > to be that they were too expensive. > > Well, they are indeed a bit pricey. However, I decided to "spring" for the I haven't done it yet, but soon. ... > Other good tool investments that I have made over the years (in no > particular order): > > 1) Bench top drill press. I got the Dremel drill press attachment when it was on sale at R/S. > 2) Two "step bits" (also called "unibits") -- boy, do they make clean I have a taper reamer that works well too, but I do need to get the step bit. Where did you find yours. > 3) A good florescent bench lamp with magnifier. (Now I can see where AMEN, but lately I think I need a stronger magnifying lens...;-) For those who are considering one, pay the money for decent quality. Cheap ones don't adjust position well. > 4) A Dremel tool. See above > 5) A nibbling tool. On the list to get, who sells a good one these days? I remember from days gone by, ADEL(SP) was the tool to get. > 6) A good soldering station (Weller WCTP series). Got mine a few weeks ago--WHO what a difference than my old WCC-100--I think the WCTP hold temp closer and more accurately. > 7) Some assorted dentist's picks. Yeah these are great for all kinds of things from test probes to flux scrapers. Folks, ask you dentist; my dentist saves old instruments and gives them away to local hobbyists...etc. FREE! > 8) A good pair of tweezers. > YEP! And, various flush cutters and pliers. I like the XCELITE 378M and 170M that come packed together for about $10-12, at home depot. And don't for get a PANAVISE. I started with the parts bin base and card holder. At the last R/S sale I added the Wide Opening head, a second base, standard head and bench clamp base holder. The Wide Opening jaw worked great to hold the K1 while completeing the TX section. 73, Rod N0RC The Tool Man Ft Collins, CO ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2001 18:57:13 -0500 From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 rookie-builder needs help! I'd like to add a couple comments to the others, if I may. > > Other good tool investments that I have made over the years (in no > > particular order): > > > > 1) Bench top drill press. > >I got the Dremel drill press attachment when it was on sale at R/S. The SEARS Desktop drill attachment designed to hold hand-held motors such as the Dremel is apparently MADE for SEARS BY Dremel!!! In fact, the two (Dremel's and SEARS') appear to be IDENTICAL. And it sells for about $20-$25 LESS than the Dremel version... c. $35. > > 2) Two "step bits" (also called "unibits") -- boy, do they make >clean > >I have a taper reamer that works well too, but I do need to get the >step bit. Where did you find yours. Unibits are available at many locations. Even Harbor Freight is now selling them... but I don't know the quality. > > 5) A nibbling tool. > >On the list to get, who sells a good one these days? I remember from >days gone by, ADEL(SP) was the tool to get. Adel's still the BEST. Only problem with the Adel is that it requires a bit larger starting hole than some others. The Adel is SIGNIFICANTLY stronger and will last longer than others... I've broken 2-3 of the R/S types and NEVER even had to change the cutting bit on my Adel (after 25+ years of use). I'd like to add, for those who really do BUILD their own stuff.. like from scratch... that I've found one tool to be one of the very most heavily-used tools I've ever had. This is the hand-held metal punch from Harbor Freight. The part # from HF is 37405 and, depending upon the time of day (it seems) you can find it for anywhere from $20 to $16 in their catalog or on their web site (www.harborfreight.com). Harbor Freight is temporarily out of stock on this item, projecting July 20 as the restocking date. If you want to see what it looks like, try item #44060, which appears to be virtually identical, BUT which has metric punches instead of inch-measure dies. I find that I use this tool in lieu of a drill for so many uses, especially when I want to make a hole where there will be virtually NO need for having to use a larger drill bit to cut away the sharp edges when the drill's finished its work. The punched holes are virtually burr-free. I also find that I can make MUCH more accurately-placed holes than I can with a drill bit. Each of the punches has a tiny brad-point which will neatly drop down into a user-center-punched dimple in the workpiece, to ensure that the hole will wind up WHERE I wanted it, rather than slightly off to the left or right due to 'traveling' of the bit while drilling. And it'll punch virtually any material you might want to use in a project... aluminum, steel, plastic(s), PC board, Teflon, paper, etc. For $16 + shipping (less if you have a Harbor Freight store nearby), I find it to be a great investment. 73 - Tom N0SS +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 13:10:04 -0500 From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: [Elecraft] Builder's service tip Greetings fellow Elecrafters: Last week, I had the pleasure of a visit from a new, local, K2 builder who had kinda shot himself in the foot while building his KSB2 option board. He had inadvertently installed the 12-pin SOCKET at P1, instead of the 12-pin PLUG. We debated for about two microseconds whether it was worth removing and replacing the socket with the plug, since they'd fit together EITHER WAY. I finally beat him into bloody submission, reminding him that if HIS KSB2 was the only board even installed in his K2, there'd be no problem,but that if he ever had the occasion to help someone else with their KSB2, theirs wouldn't fit in his K2 because of the 'gender problem'. Actually, I really fought long 'n hard to get him to allow me to desolder the socket so I could show off my new desoldering gun ... I'm sure he never suspected... Anyway, I heated up the desoldering gun, only to find that the tip of the gun was too darn big (I'm working on fixing that problem) to fit between the more tightly-packed components on the TOP of the KSB2 PC board, and I couldn't desolder from the bottom because the body of the socket covered the solder lands on the bottom of the PC board. So, I DISASSEMBLED the socket... It turned out to be THE way to handle the problem (NOTE: this method does NOT necessarily work on the PLUG side!): 1) Slip a knife blade between the PC board and one end of the socket body and LIFT (pry) up slightly. This should cause the body to raise a bit off the PC board, leaving the pins of the socket in place. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT RISK DAMAGE TO THE PC BOARD! 2) Repeat step 1 at the other end of the socket. 3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 until the body of the socket slides up and off the pins which are still soldered to the PC board. 4) Using a pair of needle-nosed pliers (or hemostats), CAREFULLY grasp a single pin BY ITS FLAT(!) SIDE and then heat the joint from the solder side of the PC board with a soldering iron. Pull slightly and the pin will come out easily (DO NOT PULL!). PLACE THE PIN WHERE YOU CAN'T WIPE IT OFF THE DESK- TOP, ONTO THE FLOOR, LOSING IT FOR NEARLY FIVE MINUTES. (I'm not admitting to anything, but if you knew my shack, you'd understand!) 5) Repeat for all pins. 6) Once all pins have been removed and stored in a safe place, go back and de-solder each individual hole, to remove all traces of solder IN the hole. A de- soldering tool will work well, or a fairly QUICK application of desoldering wick will work as well. The important point is to use as little dwell-time ON each joint as possible. If the joint doesn't come clean within a few (304) seconds, let it cool, and then flow a bit MORE solder into it. Many times the addition of a bit more solder will allow the heat to flow much more readily, facilitating its removal. 7) CAREFULLY replace all the pins into the body of the socket, and then CAREFULLY force the all of the pins down onto a tabletop, to cause them to fully 'seat' into the body of the socket. SET THE SOCKET ASIDE 8) Install the PLUG!!! I have successfully used this same method on SOME SMALL (e.g. few pins) plug assemblies as well, but in general, the pins are MUCH more tightly bonded to the plastic body of the plug and it's easier to cause damage to the plug body when attempting a rescue. BUT... if there's no other easy to remove an errantly-installed plug, it still may be worth the attempt. Maybe this will help someone, somewhere... sometime. 73 - Tom Hammond N0SS p.s. The way I'm planning on 'fixing' this problem "NEXT time", is to buy a long, slender desoldering tip for my Hakko 808 desoldering gun. One's already on order. If anyone is interested in whether it helps to solve future problems, please drop me a DIRECT note, and I'll let you know once I've used it a few times. +++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 13:36:05 -0600 (CST) From: Bruce Rattray Subject: [Elecraft] K2 problem One of the MAIN reasons I ordered a K2 was so I could immerse myself in the experience of building it....well it's proving to be a very true reason....The K2 problem is actually a "me problem"....I was tired and wound up installing U4 backwards; did a good solder job on it too.... hihihi...I tried with a solda-pullit + my soldering iron but couldn't get the chip out...I didn't know how much heat the chip could take...my main concern of course was to not damage the circuit board...I was ready to do the cut-the-chip-pins thingy but thought about trying one more thing first...I made a trip over to our Telecommunications Course where I work and walked into the lab...approached one of the instructors and showed him the problem...we walked over to one of the lab benches where upon sat a solder/vacuum station...a couple of students stood by to observe and learn along with me...Bill (instructor) added a little solder to each pin on the chip....then he took the vacuum device which has a small hollow cylinder on the end and applied it to one of the pads...this melted the solder at which point he pressed a foot switch which turned on the vacuum and sucked all the solder out....he repeated this for each pin and then gently pried the IC out of its holes with NO damage to the circuit board or the chip! ...wow...gotta have one of these...how much Bill?.................oh..... well if I get stuck again maybe I could come in here?....thanks Bill..... now of course the question is will the removed chip still work...maybe and maybe not eh!?!....I guess the safe thing is to order a new chip and put that one in the board...so I called our ONE remaining electronic supply store in Regina and the reply was "We'll see if we can locate one for you."....in the province of 2 ham radio flea markets per year and electronic supply stores disappearing, that's fair enough...maybe I can get a chip from Electrocraft if B&E can't locate one?.......so you see what I mean when I say "I bought it for the experience"....thanks Wayne & Eric for the chance to do this!!... ..72/73 - Bruce (VE5RC+VE5QRP) QRP-C#1 QRP-L#886 ARCI#9683 Zombie#272 K2#2032 A-1 Operator Club - 10/10# 944 - SOC #11 & #12 - Whiner#10 - QRP Borg#1 "QRP! How sweet it is!" oo#148 "I am da man wit "DAH" paddle!" ++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 16:14:45 -0500 From: Wyckoff Jan-FJW228 Subject: [Elecraft] Desoldering dip and inline packages To make removing a dip or inline package easier there are solder tip adaptors that for dip packages, are in the form of a c-channel that will allow the heat of the soldering iron to make contact with all pins of the dip package at the same time. These adaptors typically fit on the end of a soldering iron with a screw-in type tip and are available in sizes for 8 pin, 16 pin, and so on. An inline version is available for resistor network packages. This adaptor often makes removing a dip package much easier and usually with no or very little damage. Regards, Jan Wyckoff KA9FSM ++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:36:35 -0500 From: "Stuart Rohre" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering tool Ken, To describe it simply, it is using a vacuum pump hand tool, like the Soldapulit, with a tubing from its tip to the soldering iron that normally has a vacuum solder pull off consisting of a squeeze rubber bulb. You replace the bulb with the tubing, that goes to the Soldapulit, and use its spring action vacuum for solder removal after heating the joint with the iron; this increases the suction to do a better job than the squeeze bulb does with hand pumping. 73, Stuart K5KVH +++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:58:25 -0500 From: "John Rodenbarger" Subject: RE: [Elecraft] De-soldering tool The Soldapullit is IMHO, the poorest attempt at a solder removal tool ever attempted. I used to work with a guy who managed to destroy enough circuit cards with one of those things that the Pace station was cheap by comparison. Everyplace I've been since, I always specify a Pace desoldering station as part of my start-up kit. When I can't get to a Pace (like when I'm at home) Chem-wick does a fair job..... 73, John WB9OFG ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 15:28:35 -0700 From: "Robert Friess" Subject: [Elecraft] Nice Solder Pot at HSC I ran across a neat little solder pot that Halted Specialties has on sale. It is ideal for tinning toroid leads easily and quickly and is only $32.00. It can be found at: http://www.halted.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/cgi-local/smpagegen.exe?U+scsto re+jqgd0807ff10fb10+-c+scstore.cfg+-p+80610 Bob, N6CM ++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 00:49:13 -0400 From: "ZOOM" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Magnifying Glasses- one more time Hi All; This may be of interest to everyone and I'm happy to share my findings: When I built my SMK-1 I found wearing a visor helped allot in getting the small smt items correctly aligned. There was one drawback for me however! After looking through the visor for a while I started to get a headache and had to rest my eyes before starting again. So necessity being the mother of invention I came up with an idea that would eliminate sore eyes and neck when soldering or doing any type of intricate work. I made a stand and mounted a old style video camera to it. You know the kind where you would carry the VCR with you. Well I was hoping by just mounting it would be enough but I soon noticed that I could not zoom in close because I would lose focus. I also couldn't use the macro function because in order to get real close, the camera would almost touch the board leaving no room to work. Then I remembered a story about the Hubble telescope and the problems they had with getting it to focus and how they corrected it by adding corrective lenses to it. So off to the hardware store I went and bought some 4" magnifying glasses. I then turned on the camera and zoomed in close. The picture was real fuzzy! Next I took the magnifying lens and moved it in and out of the cameras light of sight and low and behold a perfect picture on my monitor magnified to about 20X. I now only solder this way. I no longer do I have to be bent over looking at the board with visors on. No more neck pain or headaches. I can sit perfectly straight and looking into the monitor and align and solder with ease. It's like doing surgery! You can use a modern camcoder for this as well but you will still need a corrective lens. You're better off getting an old used camera though! No need burning your good camera out. Besides I paid $5 for the camera I'm using. For those who have trouble reading, this idea is great also for reading books, magazines or whatever. I think the machine they sell to help people read is over $2000. You can build this for as little as $5.00. Not only that you can connect it to your TV! If you have a big screen holy cow!! I would be happy to send pics of my solder monitor station and info to anyone interested. Perhaps an article for QST for broader ditribution!! Cheers, Robert VE3RPF - ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Winship" To: "elecraft k2" Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 11:53 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Magnifying Glasses- one more time > Hi all, > > Got my Optivisor Friday but did not get a chance to try them until > tonight. They make a world of difference. Found that if I wear my > reading glasses on the tip of my nose with the Optivisor just above > them, that I can read my instruction manual with my reading glasses > and then look up a bit and see the circuit board with the Optivisor. > Much less fatigue. Tnx agn to all who sent suggestions. > > BTW, no association with Optivisor. > > 73, > George, WA5UIH > K2-2217 ++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 07:27:55 -0400 From: "John J. McDonough" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solder Paul I have to echo John's comments here. Silver solder looks nice, it makes for very shiny joints. A lot of people use it for that reason. I used it on my K1 - BIG MISTAKE. It borders on impossible to get the stuff out of the plated-through holes. I was very careful on the K1 not to make any mistakes, but installing the noise blanker and ATU both involve some desoldering. From time to time you are probably going to want to make some changes to your K2, certainly there are lots of options posted here. It is very hard to get silver solder out without damaging the board. Stick to a good quality 60/40 or better yet, 63/37, and get a nice, small diameter. I, too, use the .031 size and it seems to be about right. Personally, I haven't seen a big difference between Kester and other solders, but a pound of solder lasts a long time, so why not spend an extra buck and get the good stuff. 72/73 de WB8RCR http://members.home.com/wb8rcr/index.htm didileydadidah QRP-L #1446 Code Warriors #35 ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 13:45:16 -0700 From: "Steve Thompson" Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Manual Help and/or Suggestions for Newbie with ordered K2? The PanaVise is an excellent tool, and of high quality. I am not aware of any popularly available vise that is better. Besides, the PanaVise is nice because once you have the base, you can add several different options to it, such as a circuit board holder, etc. Regarding an anti-static mat, Jameco has a 24"x28" for $14.95 (Item # 168508). I've gone thru one of them already, and have found it to be of good quality and fit. My first one was retired only because it had lots of wear, a few solder burns, and lots of rosin splatter from excessive "solder blob" method (toroids). The new one is due to arrive via UPS tomorrow. Navigate to http://www.jameco.com/ then at the "Search for" enter 168508 and click go. Other mats are also available at http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdCT/p113.pdf 72, Steve N7TX Irving, TX - ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Rick Tilton" Reply-To: "Rick Tilton" Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 13:45:02 -0500 >Speaking of necessary tools, etc. I have a PanaVise that I had thought about >using but can anyone point me to another vice to use that maybe better or is >this one sufficient? I've already acquired most of the other tools (I >think?). Now about this anti-static work mat? Can anyone point me to a >place to find one or have suggestions. I'm sure I'll have more questions to >come. Thanks ahead of time! > >Rick Tilton >ARS - N4WYK >n4wyk at arrl.net >n4wyk at amsat.org >Foothills of NC APRS and Satellite Website >http://www.n4wyk.com > ++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 21:37:03 +0000 From: "J. Ellis" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Manual Help and/or Suggestions for Newbie with ordered K2? Hi Rick, The Panavise is a really nice device to hold the PC boards. I would strongly recommend that you have the attachment that has the jaws with the rubber covers that adjust with a crank on one side. Some people don't realize that you can remove the two jaws, swap the ends that they are mounted on and get a much wider jaw opening that can easily accomodate the RF board of the K2. I found that this device is very satisfactory for holding the various boards in position while constructing. Much more satisfactory than the attachment they offer which is designed to hold PC boards. Rick Tilton wrote: > Speaking of necessary tools, etc. I have a PanaVise... John, NP2B K2s 1645 & 2281 +++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:43:18 -0500 From: "Steve Lawrence" Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Bench Irons If you're shopping for an inexpensive soldering station, don't overlook the Edsyn 951-SX. Unlike the widely popular Weller WTCPT family irons, the Edsyn temperature control is via calibrated dial -- not via change in tip. Simply turn the dial up to 800 degF for toroid lead tinning and back down to 650 (or 700) degF for PC board work. It couldn't be simpler. After looking around, I purchased my Edsyn earlier this fall from www.radioshack.com for (if I recall correctly) $75. It's ESD safe, has a tip wiping sponge, and a iron holder. Complaints? Well I do have one minor complaint...... the Edsyn sits higher on the bench than Weller units and doesn't fit very well under some shelving above my work area! A small price to pay for the convenience of dial temperature control.... 73, Steve aa8af K1 #910, K2 #2033 +++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 06:38:09 -0600 From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations Jim, et al: Jim Lytthans K6VRY wrote: >I use a Weller WES50 soldering station, with great results. It also is a >variable temperature system, with a light iron that stays cool in the hand. >I think I paid $90 for it at Orvacs in Anaheim. From what I've seen of this T/C station, it appears to be the logical successor to the WTCPT (and all those in that same family)... at least in the Weller soldering station line. This station offers a 50W heater, which should translate to little tip temperature change when soldering, even fairly large items. Irons with lower wattage (15W-20W) heaters seem to have trouble 'keeping up' with the heat requirements of their tips if asked to solder to PC board points, such as a connection to a large expanse of PC board copper foil. The tip temp drops significantly as soon as the tinned tip touches the copper foil, and then it takes a much longer time for the lo-wattage heater to replenish the heat in the tip so it can heat the copper to solder-melting temperature. I recall having problems with this very scenario when I used smaller irons... sometimes I even had to resort to a small-tipped 100W iron in order to successfully complete some high-mass joints. Weller also appears to offer a very economical T/C station, the 921ZX1, which boasts a 60W heater, for $80 in my Fall/Winter Future Active catalog. But I've been unsuccessful at finding any usable info regarding available tips for this iron. Weller says "36 different tips available", but I can't find anything on them, e.g. tip style or width. 73 - Tom Hammond N0SS +++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:11:21 EST From: DolfinDon at aol.com Subject: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations In a message dated 12/19/2001 1:10:21 AM Central Standard Time, lytthans at earthlink.net writes: I use a Weller WES50 soldering station, with great results. It also is a variable temperature system, with a light iron that stays cool in the hand. I think I paid $90 for it at Orvacs in Anaheim. I have used the Weller WTCP type iron for over 25 years starting when I brought one from home to the shop at Tektronix. All of the tech's liked it so much better than the Antex iron that Tek had been providing that the shop switched to the Weller. About two years ago I bought a WES-50 Weller and after giving it a good work out (3-K2's, 2-K1's and 25 or 30 prototype boards of my own design). I now think the WES-50 is better than the WTCP if only slightly. The temperature control knob is handy when you need a little more heat or for stripping toroid leads and the iron turns itself off if it is unused for about 1 1/2 hours so you don't burn up the tips. The price is about the same as a WTCP. If I were looking for a soldering station this is the one to get. My $0.02 ;) Don Brown KD5NDB +++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 01:38:46 -0000 From: "Marc" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations Tom wrote: >Weller also appears to offer a very economical T/C station, the 921ZX1, >which boasts a 60W heater, for $80 in my Fall/Winter Future Active catalog. >But I've been unsuccessful at finding any usable info regarding available >tips for this iron. Weller says "36 different tips available", but I can't >find anything on them, e.g. tip style or width. >73 - Tom Hammond N0SS This station was originally a Unger product (before Coopertools bought Unger). We had been using these at work (limited production), but have bought a few WES50 to replace the aging 921ZX1 stations. Both work just fine, well enough that I bought the WES50 for home and picked up a 921ZX1 at a ridiculously low price of $45 (clearance sale)(about 1 yr ago...). The tips are a 9000 series designator available from Digi-key and Mouser (to name two). The series part numbers run from 9010 to 9019, 9050 to 9061 and I think they were used for a number of the Unger irons. They do not appear to be described on the Weller web site though. At home, I use the WES50 for PC boards and small work and use the 921XZ1 for connectors and cables (with a big tip). YMMV 73, Marc K1TS ++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 00:00:22 -0500 From: "T.J. \"SKIP\" Arey N2EI" Subject: [Elecraft] RE: WES50 I just upgraded from the WTCPT to the WES50. What a great iron!!! I used it recently to do some surface mount work and I just don't know how I accomplished anything without it. Active Electronics (Future Active) has the unit on sale for $99 right now. +++++++++++++++ From: "Don Wilhelm" To: "Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD" , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Another K2 Capacitor Question.... Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:38:21 -0500 Jonathan, The ARRL Handbook has a digital capacitance meter adapter that is rather easy to build - use a DVM to display the values (yes, you can use a regular DMM). Sorry, but I don't recall the section - you will have to use the index to find it. I have built both the capacitance meter and the inductance meter and can say that they work FB. Mine is in a single box with a dedicated DVM but that takes a many pole switch to switch from capacitance to inductance - the easier way is to build 2 separate adapters. 73, Don W3FPR Don Wilhelm - Wake Forest, NC W3FPR home page: http://www.qsl.net/w3fpr/ QRP-L # 485 K2 SN 0020 mailto: w3fpr at arrl.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD" > All of this discussion makes me think it would be great to have a > capacitance meter on the bench, yet this is something most hams probably > don't have. > > Has anyone seen a simple circuit which would allow capacitor values to be > checked using, say, a signal source, an RF probe, and a DMM? In other > words, a "capacitance probe"? ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 08:49:27 +0000 From: Paul Hendershott To: "Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD" CC: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Another K2 Capacitor Question.... I picked up an "L/C Meter IIB" from "Almost All Digital Electronics" for around $99 before I started on my K2. It cleared up a lot of confusion I had between the difficult to read parts. I found it to be extremely accurate. The great thing is that it comes in a "kit" form or factory assembled! Nothing like building "kit test equipment" to build your K1 or K2 kit - very much in the Heathkit spirit of doing things. Only thing to watch out for - I was told by a few builders not to rely on it too much when measuring the toroids - trust the manual and the proper # of turns, etc.,. There were discrepancies between the measured L and what the manual stated the L should be, but my K2 worked FB following the instructions exactly. Paul KB9YVP "Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD" wrote: > All of this discussion makes me think it would be great to have a > capacitance meter on the bench, yet this is something most hams probably > don't have. +++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: From: "Ron D' Eau Claire" To: Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Another K2 Capacitor Question.... Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:21:50 -0800 Jonathan, K1RFD, wrote > All of this discussion makes me think it would be great to have a > capacitance meter on the bench, yet this is something most hams probably > don't have. > > Has anyone seen a simple circuit which would allow capacitor values to be > checked using, say, a signal source, an RF probe, and a DMM? In other > words, a "capacitance probe"? Testing caps "in circuit" with some sort of probe is pretty hard since the stray capacitance of the other components and PCB often exceed the value of the capacitor being checked. More commonly a 'bad' capacitor is detected by its effect on the overall operation of a circuit. Out of the circuit, a capacitance checker is very useful. You may be right that many Hams lack one although I have gotten used to a capacitance testing feature in most modern DMM's. I have two DMM's and both of them, a Fluke and a relatively inexpensive (about US $70) Radio Shack unit provide capacitance checks. The Radio Shack meter does a good job on anything from electrolytics of hundreds of microfarads down to values of a few pf, if you subtract the stay capacitance reading of the meter itself. So if you are thinking of upgrading your DMM, getting one with a built-in capacitance meter might be the way to go. Also, I've gotten "spoiled" by the newer DMMs that let me plug in an unknown bipolar transistor and it immediately gives me both the hfe and the pinout! Ron AC7AC K2 # 1289 +++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 04:13:38 -0500 To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: "Jerry W. O'Dell" Subject: [Elecraft] Cap meters Lots of digital multimeters have capacitance as a standard feature. They're not terribly accurate, though. And the grid dip meters will do inductance, granted with great trouble. I have a Kelvin and Radio Shack that both do a creditable job of checking capacitance. 73 jerry w8gnd ++++++++++++++++ From: "Hagood, Larry" To: "'m0sca at btopenworld.com'" Cc: "'elecraft at mailman.qth.net'" Subject: [Elecraft] 1st Time Kit building Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 10:21:47 -0700 Hello Simon, I just finished K2/100 #2737 and all the trimmings, I also assumed that I needed to build something else first so a few months before I got the k2, I built the k1. The K1 is not easier to build, just fewer parts. I would just build one of the inexpensive options for the k2 like the noise blanker, 160RX, the AF/RTC or ATU but not the SSB option (it is very dense with components). The best advice I can give you is: before you start, take a look at the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website and purchace or borrow the following items. For about $200 you can outfit yourself with all the special tools needed to tackle any kit for a long time. Having the correct tools for the job will be just as valuable as any ammount of soldering experience. 1) Magnifying lamp ($15) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F012%5F000&product%5Fid=910%2D4944 2) Variable output soldering station ($120) (recomended but not required, you can get a good 750 degree f Iron for under $30, use a small ~2mm flat tip) http://www.jensentools.com/product/group.asp?parent_id=52065 3) Wire strippers ($8) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D1922 4) Flush cutting nippers ($4) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D18335 5) Round nose pliars for lead forming ($3) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=910%2D3713 6) Silver bearing solder (recomended by Elecraft. Clean, looks good but hard to desolder so be careful) (get 2 rolls just in case ($4) (Note: Elecraft no longer recommends silver solder..... DWN) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F006%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D013 7) Desoldering tool ($7) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F006%5F003%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D2098 8) Anti static wrist strap ($10) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F019%5F000&product%5Fid=910%2D3772 9) Precision hobby knife ($4) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F016%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D1804 10) Needle nose pliars ($7) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F005%5F009%5F000&product%5Fid=910%2D3730 11) Digital Multimeter ($20) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F008%5F002%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=22%2D810 12) Soldering flux (use sparingly and only on hard to solder surfaces like when grounding crystal housings or coax connectors) ($3) http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT LG%5F005%5F006%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D021 13)" TORCH" TYPE butane cigarette lighter and fine grit sand paper for striping enamel wire. There are several ways to do this but this method works best for me. I hope this helps out and good luck with your K2, Take your time and double check everything before soldering. I also have two kids 5yrs +4months. It will be hard but try to find time to work on the kit when and where you won't be distracted. I worked a couple of hours each night out in the shack. 73 and hope to hear you on the air -Larry AE6CP Larry Hagood AIT Retrofit Engineer Wafer Inspection Group K Phone: 925-245-8643 Pager: 1-877-205-9042 e-Page: 8772059042 at pagenetmessage.net Larry.Hagood at kla-tencor.com +++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 10:53:09 -0700 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Organization: Elecraft To: "Hagood, Larry" Cc: "'m0sca at btopenworld.com'" , "'elecraft at mailman.qth.net'" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1st Time Kit building Larry - Great posting! I'll probably plagiarize it for the web page. ;*) One note though - Elecraft no longer recommends silver solder. While it is an excellent solder for use by experienced builders, it is very difficult to remove from component holes, especially for those less experienced builders. Many of the damaged PC boards we see ar the result of incorrect component removal techniques combined with the use of silver based solder. (When removing components from a board built with silver solder I first 'prime' the connection with regular solder (Kester 44, 60/40, 63/37 etc.) and then use a good solder plunger or desoldering system.) I've used Kester 44 for all of my construction and have had excellent results. Also, the rosin core solder at Radio Shack works well, believe it or not! :^) 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft +++++++++++++++++++