This is a VERY GENERAL PROBLEM....
Ignore the fact that this thread series if for K1 Front Panel

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Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 10:50:25 -0400
From: "ZOOM" <kandrparker at sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Board Resistance Checks

Mark;

You'll get an open reading if you have your ohmeter at too low a range.  If
it is set for a range of say 10K and your hoping to read 90-200K, the meter
will indicate an open. This is correct since your max range is exceeded.
Check the range setting on the meter and try again.  It sounds like finger
trouble to me.  It's OK we all do it from time to time so your normal like
the rest of us.  Mke sure also that your using a piece of wire to get into
the connector.

Cheers,
Robert
VE3RPF

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J. Yergin" <yergin at ic.net>
To: <elecraft at qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 9:18 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Board Resistance Checks


> I've conducted the K1 Front Panel Board resistance checks on page 22, but
I
> get open circuit (>100k) reading for ALL the test points.  According to
the
> manual, I should be getting 90-200k for J1 pin 10, <50k for J1 pin 15 and
> 15-18k for J1 pin 16.  I double checked the board for soldering problems,
> but it looks OK to me.  Do I have a problem?  Suggestions for where to
look?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Mark J. Yergin, N8IFU
> K1 #677 (In Progress)
> yergin at ic.net
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Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:23:37 -0400
From: "Mark J. Yergin" <yergin at ic.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Board Resistance Checks

Thanks!  That was it.  I set the meter to auto range, and then used a wire
to get down into the connector, and all is fine - the measured resistances
are within the specified ranges.  Why is it that you can't touch the meter
probe to the appropriate pins on the solder side of the J1 connector?

Mark, N8IFU
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Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:07:14 -0500
From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= <n0ss at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Front Panel Board Resistance Checks

Mark:

>Why is it that you can't touch the meter probe to the appropriate pins on 
>the solder side of the J1 connector?

You can, but... you'll generally make a better connection when you're 
touching a gold-plated contact then when you're touching a soldered joint, 
which may have a thin 'insulation' of rosin on it (which requires you to 
pierce the covering in order to make contact).

73 - Tom Hammond   N0SS
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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 20:14:41 -0700
From: "Ron D' Eau Claire" <rondec at easystreet.com>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K1 resistance checks.

Michael WD4MFB asked:
> I am building K1 #583 and have just one question about the
> resistance checks.
> On the Filter board the values are to be <1 ohm. My reading is
> -0-. Is this okay
> or should I worry? I am using an autoranging Radio Shack DVM that
> is their best,
> but that doesn't mean much. At first, I thought I was getting .4
> ohm, but it settled
> on -0-.

If -0- is what you get when you touch the probes together, you are fine. "<"
means "Less Than" which includes zero. If you manually set DMM to a low
resistance range you will probably see something on the order of 0.4 ohms of
which 0.1 or 0.2 ohms is the resistance of the test leads themselves. It
sounds like your DMM is switching to a higher resistance range for some
reason so that such a low value is reported on the display as zero.

Ron (autoranging can be a pain) AC7AC
K2 # 1289
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Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 07:42:11 -0500
From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= <n0ss at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Poor resistance check s/n 02097

Michael:

>Now I have another challenge. I do not have a Digital Multimeter so
>I have taken my resistance checks with an analog meter. I realise that the
>readings can be off, but some of my readings are off by a very signifacant
>amount. I do not know if the readings are off by so much only because I do
>not have the digital meter or if I have a problem. I would greatly
>appreciate it if I could get opinions of those who understand more about
>this than I do. I could not figure out how to put the tables into email so
>I have uploaded a web page with the tables to my web site. If you think
>that you can answer my concerns I would greatly appreciate it if you would
>visit the web page below.
>
>http://www.qsl.net/kb1dxc/r_check.html

For future postings, it's probably much better if you add such results to 
the message itself. Many folks won't bother to follow a link... and you'll 
possibly miss some good responses as a result.

First... there's generally NOTHING WRONG with using an analog meter.. in 
fact, it may well be preferred since it does not imply the (possibly 
erroneous) high degree of accuracy possible inferred from a digital meter. 
Most required readings are BALLPARK values and not intended to be specific.

CONTROL BOARD

Only the values for U6 come into question... all others look FINE.

FRONT PANEL

Same for these Ux values.

RF BOARD

Same for these Ux values AND for R115 (because D12 goes from it to ground).

Try reversing the leads on your meter (e.g. red to ground, etc.) and 
re-take the readings. Sometimes readings involving semiconductors are 
polarity-sensitive and will read correctly only when the proper polarity is 
presented to them.

>If it is impossible to determine whether I have a problem with
>these readings please let me know so I can attempt to get access to a
>Digital meter.

My gut feeling is that ALL of the reading in question are the result of 
improper polarity from the meter leads and that everything is just fine. 
But won't hurt to confirm this with a reversed-lead test.

Good luck,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 22:39:39 -0500
From: "Andy Anderson" <RES0AQDS at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 resistance checking

Anything over 10K, Michael.

<SNIP>
> I'm in the process of building K1 #720 and have a dandy question.
>
> At several points in the building instructions there are steps for
checking resistance.  In many of these tests, they show ">100K" which can
also be interpreted as infinity.
>
> In other places they say things like ">10k" or something like that.  Does
that mean that I should be getting readings greater than 10k AND LESS THAT
100K?  Or is anything over 10K considered ok?  In some of my >10K test
points, I've gotten infinity.  Is this good or bad?

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Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 16:44:11 -0500
From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= <n0ss at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Resistance Checks

John:

>I am stumped. Resistance checks for Filter board on K1 are great except for
>p1 and p2 pins and all of these register nothing. No change in two different
>DMs. None of the p checks even move. Solder looks good.  I can't believe all
>the connections are bad. I read about the different readings on different
>meters, but mine don't even move or register a connection. How do I proceed?

It's not elling you they're BAD, just that there's not sufficient 
resistance there for your DVM (it IS a DVM, right?) to register anything.

And they'd darn well BETTER show INFINITE (_not_ "NO") resistance!!! If you 
follow the schematic of the Filter Board, you will see that these pins 
(actually pins 1, 2, 4, 6 & 8 on P1, and pins 1 & 8 on P2) go directly to 
either the tuned circuits (where each lead is DC ISOLATED from ground by 
the coupling capacitor), or to the Band1/Band2 XTALS, which whould show an 
extermely, if not infinite, resistance as well.

Pins 3, 5 & 7, or P1, and pins 2 & 7 of P2, should show ZERO OHMS (or 
nearly so). Pins 3,4, 5 & 6 of P2 might show some resistance, I'd expect. 
Put since they terminate in the PIC controller, which is CMOS, it's 
doubtful that they'd show much resistance.

Hope this helps.

73 - Tom Hammond   N0SS

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