THE MONTREAL FOX V 3 CONSTRUCTION TEXT - Use a double sided PCB. The top is left solid copper. When etching the board, cover the top with MACTACK or eqivalent sticky plastic film to prevent the acid from etching the top. - All round and large square pads are drilled. - Using a 5/64" drill, remove some copper on top at each round pad location to prevent short circuits to ground. If you can, resharpen the drill to a wider angle to make the holes shallower. - The small square pads (40th) are not drilled, they are just for marking the location of component pins. Thoses pins are soldered on the top component side. - Large square pads marked FT have a wire soldered on both sides of the board for a feed through connection. - Q2, IC3 and C9 are mounted on the bottom of the PCB. - Have a friend hold IC3 and C9 with a pointed tool while you solder a corner pin with a small pointed soldering iron, use very little solder, then solder all the other pins. - Do not forget to install the star heat-sink on Q2. TESTING - If you find too much modulation, increase R5, R6. If you find too little modulation reduce the value of R5, R6. - C8 adjust the TX frequency. - C4 is the timing clock adjustment. Place a frequency counter probe on pins 15 of IC2, adjust C4 for a reading of 4.194304 mHz. This adjustment is needed only if you have more than one synchronized Fox. - C10, C12 and C13 are adjusted for a maximum output. You should get more than .75 Watt. If you need more power,change the voltage regulator to a LM317 and adjust the output voltage to 5.5 Volt, the output should than go over 1 Watt. Many thanks to: Joe Leggio WB2HOL for his help in the RF section and Doug Reed N0NAS for the ICS501 samples and projects ideas. Jacques VE2EMM