2012 Honda FIT VHF / UHF Mobile Installation
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As an owner of a sub compact car and an amateur I was concerned as to where I could install a dual band rig while not compromising my safety. After doing a little web research, I had a clue as to where I could get through the fire wall for power. Pictures for that are below. The bigger issue would be where to mount the radio. The factory power harness wasn't used. I made my own using 1/4" female disconnects and 12 gauge wire automotive zip wire I bought at a hamfest. Spade fuses were added in the positive lead on both ends for service reasons.
The FT-7900 has a removable control head allowing remote installation of the radio body. Typical remote locations are under either front seats or the trunk. With the Honda FIT there is no trunk so that left under the seats. The passenger seat has a flat bracket running side to side just above the carpet. I thought I could mount the "U" bracket to it and be good to go. The rig's "U" bracket is to tall, it hits the seat. Using Velcro was out too, just not enough room. The distance from seat bottom to floor isn't enough to allow either driver or passenger seat to move without hitting the rig.
The next location was the rear corner. There's a pocket that would be difficult but not impossible to get the bracket mounted. The issue here is the cables (power, control, speaker, coax) would be visible along with the rig. That's a deal breaker.
The answer was to use the driver's side rear seat storage pocket. After removing the pocket door, by tugging on it. There's more than enough room to allow the cooling fan to do its job. With the seat down, the rig and cables are out of site. Leaving a service loop in the cable run allows the seat to be flipped up. For those who may not know, the FIT's rear seat bottoms flip up and lock so tall thin cargo can be carried instead of rear seat humans. With the storage pocket door out of the way, I noticed a seam in the plastic. If you tug just a little. it will pop free allowing you to see the aluminum bracket just behind the plastic. That aluminum is what the rig's U bracket and body will mount to.
The control head is pretty easy to mount. Home depot sells 1"x 1" x 1/16 "L" aluminum stock in four foot lenghts for about $7. You need less than four inches of it but hey it's cheap enough. The L stock will allow the control head to be mounted just below the HVAC controls and still allow enough room for drinks in the cup holders below.
The "HVAC" plate is removable. Using a "panel tool" and starting from the bottom, you can pop the panel out. The drink holder lamp is removable, just pinch it together and it will pop free. The first step is to cut the L stock to length. Use double sided tape to located where you want the L stock to mount on the cover plate. Mount the control head to the stock by marking and drilling holes through the stock. The Yaesu provided small bolts and nuts will work to attach the control head bracket to the L stock. Mark and drill small holes (1/8") to allow 6-32 mounting bolts to attach the L stock / control head bracket to the HVAC plastic cover. Pop the lamp back in place. Now insert the top of the plastic panel then snap the bottom in and you are good to go.
I have an external speaker mounted with double sided foam tape in the "junk drawer" just in front of the drink holders. The speaker was bought at a hamfest a few years ago and I'm sorry to say that I don't remember the make or model. The antenna is a dual band Larsen on a trunk lip mount. The only hitch is that the antenna needs to be on a slight angle as to not whack the car when the hatch is opened. The coax is dressed into a hole at the bottom of the drivers tail light then into the car under the plastic trim. All of the cables are routed through the plastic that covers the edge of the carpet.
KB2UMJ email is good at yahoo or qsl.net
January 1st 2013 KB2UMJ Updated 11/17/2014