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Construction A glance at the parts list shows that this project was designed with your local Radio Shack in mind. All the parts listed here are avail-able there, as are other parts that can improve the appearance of your project. Some of the parts are sold only in multiples. If you cooperate with another ham or group, the extra parts can be shared to keep costs lower. Also, don't forget to check your junk box. The prototype was designed to be built with simple hand tools. The electronics are assembled on a printed circuit board or perfboard. Sockets for the integrated circuits are not required but strongly recommended as the IC's are static sensitive CMOS. Follow the pictorial layout, particularly noting the polarity of the diodes (the band) and the orientation of the intergrated circuits. (indented notch on left end or dot by pin 1) When all the components have been installed, attach the coax cables. If you buy the BNC cable assembly from Radio Shack, cut
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about a foot off the end, strip back the shield and insulation and attach to the board. Try to use as little heat as possible, as the inner insulation melts very easily. Do the same for the antenna cables, making sure the antenna cables are identical in length. At the antenna ends of the cable, form the exposed conductors into loops and flow some solder onto the wire. Attach the circuit board to the middle of a 1 by 3 or 4 pine board two feet long. Attach the battery holder to the board in a
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convenient location. The antenna elements can be made from a wide variety of materials. For the prototype, I used some 17 gauge steel electric fence wire I had laying around. #12 solid copper wire removed from romex would be suitable as would steel, brass or stainless steel welding rod. One builder used plastic covered aluminum closeline. Elements from an old TV antenna, rabbit ears and telescoping radio antennas are good sources. On the prototype, I bent a small loop in one end of the wire and attached
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