The radio amateurs from Bulgaria

	VISITING THE BULGARIAN AMATEURS
	George Pataki WB2AQC

   The idea of visiting the Bulgarian amateurs came to me in the spring of 1999 when I was in Spain. One evening I was sitting in a little outdoor restaurant in Valencia with some local hams when one of them asked me where I’d go next. I was tired and sleepy and without too much thought, just to give an answer, I said “Bulgaria.”
   All four EA5 hams jumped up and in a choir yelled “Why Bulgaria?” That woke me up and tried to give a good reason for what I was not even prepared.
   “When I was there a long time ago I met some very nice amateurs. Not many people visit Bulgaria these days and it would be an interesting trip.”
   Besides, I had a hidden agenda what bothered me for decades and I wanted to arrive to a conclusion. Many years ago, when I visited Bulgaria for the first time, I met a young and pretty radio amateur girl, and we went together to the beach. I liked the girl but I was shy and inexperienced and I was afraid to make any proposal what could have benefited both of us. Finally we left the beach and I had to go to my hotel to change clothes for an evening event in a restaurant with local hams. When we got to the hotel I gathered all the courage I could and I asked her if she would be willing to come with me to my room. She blushed embarrassed and did not say anything but moved her head slowly from left to right, back and forth, a couple of times. I took that as a “no.” I was pretty much used to rejections so I asked her to wait in the lobby.
   Later I found out that the Bulgarians, the only people in the whole world that I know of, node their head up and down for “no” and left to right, back and forth, to say “yes.” It was too late for me; not knowing the local customs, I blew it.
   Preparing the trip I wrote to the Bulgarian Federation of Radio Amateurs asking for their help in meeting local hams. I received no answer. Later when I visited them I received the standard excuse: they did not receive my letter.
   A friend advised me to contact Nick LZ1JY who knows everybody and is a good organizer. I sent him an E-mail and indeed he was very helpful setting up meetings in various cities. Nick also put me in touch with Yanko LZ1BMV from the LZ1KDP radio club.

SOFIA

   From New York City I took an evening flight on Austrian Airlines to Vienna, Austria, and my plane arrived one hour and half late. I almost missed my connection to Sofia but that plane left with a two-hour delay so I was lucky.
   At the Sofia airport Nick LZ1JY was waiting for me. He is the manager of the electronics division of Samsung corporation and is well known at the airport so he pushed the cart with my luggage through the customs without any interference.
   I got installed in a little hotel right near the Technical University campus and I paid $20.00 per night. The hotel looked more as a student dormitory than a hotel; there was no radio, TV, or air condition in the room, and the telephone was “temporary” out of order as most phone were in the city. At the reception, on display were offered for sale, very appropriately for a hotel, two types of picture postcards and three types of condoms.
   My first visit was at LZ1KDP, the radio club of the Technical University of Sofia, located about 5 minutes from my hotel. The club is on the 6th floor but they also have some rooms on the top 7th floor where is a big military type amplifier used in contests, and some storage spaces.
   The chief of the club is Anna LZ3GU but she was out sick, however I met a very active and enthusiastic gang led by Yanko LZ1BMV: Ventsi LZ1HST, Ivan LZ1PJ, Mila LZ1ABB, and a few licensed operators without personal callsigns. The club boasts about 145 members, students and former students of this school. On the roof they have a big antenna farm. They do have QSLs and say they answer all cards they receive.
   One evening I met Jordan LZ1UU who spends the winter months, December to March, working as a communications officer of the Bulgaria scientific expedition on Livingston Island in the South Shetland group. He was already down there four times and operated as LZ0A. His LZ0A QSL shows two penguins; according to some unverified rumors, Jordan had a close encounter with one of them.
   Nick LZ1JY took me to the Federation of Bulgarian Radio Amateurs, which is in a building of the Postal Administration. There I met Zdravka LZ1ZQ, the good looking secretary of the Federation; Kosta LZ1FN, a telegraphy instructor; and Maria who is in charge with the Bulgarian QSL bureau. Zdravka’s son is George LZ3GC.
   The QSL bureau works very well despite of their financial difficulties. Maria is hardworking and very conscientious. If anybody did not receive the Bulgarian QSL he or she is waiting for, is because the LZ ham did not send one despite of the too often heard assurances: “QSL is no problem.”
   The Federation has a well-equipped club station LZ1BFR but their computer was “temporary” out of order. I met this kind of “temporary” situation in several places. They do have QSL cards and their E-mail address is [email protected]. Both Kosta LZ1FN and Zdravka LZ1ZQ have their own QSLs.
   The last Callbook published by the Federation was in 1997. The one published in 1995 has an interesting list of well-known radio amateurs around the world like kings, astronauts, scientists, movie stars, etc. In 1998 the Federation published an interesting book about the history of amateur radio in Bulgaria, and in 1992 - 1993 they published a 45-50 page magazine titled “LZ 73,” but it was discontinued because of the lack of financial support.
   At the Federation I met Dimiter LZ1AF who brought a couple of pounds of his QSL cards to be mailed through the bureau. Dimiter is a graphic designer; he designed the new look of ACOM 2000A, the automatic HF linear amplifier, which is made by the people who used to build the Alfa series.
   Dimiter’s new QSL cards illustrate this amplifier. I visited Dimiter’s station equipped with both industrial and homemade gear, including an IC-751A and an ETO 91 Beta amplifier capable of running 2.5 kW. He is very active, worked 325 entities, only on CW. He has a 6 element log periodic used for 10-12-15-17-20 meters, an eight-band vertical for 10 to 80 meters, and a sloper for 160 meters. On 2 meters FM he is pushing 25 Watts in a ground plane. Dimiter was first licensed in 1956. He is the DX editor of the English section of Radio Bulgaria and his programs are broadcasted several times a week.
   Every Thursday evening around 6 PM some amateurs of Sofia meet in a restaurant, eat, drink, and talk about everything, sometimes even about amateur radio. I went to such a get-together and met about 20 hams.
   I visited Todor LZ1WE, a radio engineer licensed in 1970, active with over 300 entities worked. His wife Dani LZ3EW is a chemist licensed in 1986. She works on 2 meter FM making mostly local contacts. They use mostly homemade equipment and they can run up to 350 Watts. Their 3 element Yagi for 10-15-20 meters and 20 meter dipole are also homemade and installed on the top of their very tall building. Todor LZ1WE does computer logging and both have QSL cards.
   In their house I met their friend and neighbor Saleh LZ5KP, also 9K2DD, who is the public relations manager for the Kuwait Embassy.
   I also visited Sergei LZ1SE, a bedridden ham who in 1973 broke his spine while jumping in the water. Sergei was at the time a college student; later he graduated as a radio communications engineer and now is a computer programmer. Sergei has a Yaesu FT-757 and is running 100 Watts into a Delta Loop antenna. He operates mostly SSB on 10 to 80 meter bands, worked over 200 entities and has QSL cards.
   I went to see an interesting radio amateur family: Radelyn LZ1UF, a radio engineer licensed in 1957; his wife Urszula LZ1FU, also a broadcaster, first licensed in 1960 as SP5AHO, and in 1965 as LZ1FU, and their son Andy LZ3UF, a Polish-Bulgarian amateur radio co-production, also a radio engineer, licensed in 1990. Radelyn met Urszula in 1960 on 40 meter phone. They met personally for the first time in 1961 in Warsaw. They use homemade equipment: transceiver and a transverter for 2 and 6 meters, a 500 Watts amplifier for 2 meters, plus various gadgets. On 6 meters Radelyn using only 6 Watts worked over 40 countries on SSB. All three have QSL cards. They can be reached via E-mail: [email protected].
   With Ventsi LZ1HST I visited Yuri Tzenkov who publishes with his brother Viktor LZ3NN a magazine devoted to radio electronics named Elektron. They also have a couple of stores with radio and electronic parts. Their E-mail is: [email protected]. Another Bulgarian radio magazine is called Radio Televizia Elektronika with E-mail: [email protected].
    Considering that Sofia is the capital and the countries biggest city, I met very few amateurs, partially because they could not be contacted due to the not operating telephone lines.
   A greedy old man gave 2 levas to a priest asking him to pray so he’ll go to Heaven after death. The priest gets angry:
   “It costs 5 levas to go by taxi to the railway station and you want for 2 levas to go all the way to Heaven? Here is your money and you’ll have another destination for free.”
   As I do from all my trips I sent an E-mail to my loving wife Eva WA2BAV. From Sofia the message was:
   “I don’t think I’ll ever come back; I have a wonderful time with Sofia, and I don’t mean the city.”
   Her answer was fast and sweet:
   “When you run out of money you’ll be left only with Sofia, and I mean the city. Anyway, I moved your junk in the garage and rented your room. Have a wonderful time!”
    A judge is asking a ham whose neighbor cut his coax cable:
   “Did you tell your neighbor that he is a dirty, ugly, nasty and stupid monkey?”
   “Your Honor, I really don’t remember that, but as I look at him now it is very possible.”

PLOVDIV

   After two and half days in Sofia it was time to leave for Plovdiv. First Nick LZ1JY said that I should go by bus, but then he changed his mind advising me to go by train because it is safer; it can not break down in the middle of the trip. He drove me to the railway station. The ticket to Plovdid was 3.50 levas, about $2.00.
   When I got on the train I noticed a big puddle of water coming from the toilet. In Eastern Europe I got used to malfunctioning toilets with water running continuously or not running at all. I crossed the puddle on my way to my compartment thinking that with all this water at least it can not be a fire. How wrong I was. About in the middle between Sofia and Plovdiv the car I was in caught fire on both ends. The train stopped in a small town, people got off and looked at the fire. I saw only lots of smoke and steam. I was thinking if I would have taken a plane to Plovdiv and the plane would have caught fire I could hardly get out and watch the fire. So I felt lucky. The railway people were running confused back and forth and yelling contradictory instructions: “get off the train” and “get on the train.” While half of the passengers were getting off, the other half was getting on so the number of people on the train and on the ground stayed the same. I saw a passenger unselfishly sacrificing his bottle of mineral water trying to extinguish the fire. Finally a fire truck came by, sprayed some water on the undercarriages at both ends of the car. First that created more steam, but after awhile the fire was extinguished and we continued our journey. We were wet, smoked, but smiling from ear to ear.
   I arrived to Plovdiv an hour late but Yoan LZ1YW was waiting and recognized me by my cap wearing my name and callsign.
   I went to see Yoan’s station. He is a retired electronics technician, licensed in 1965. He is a constructor and operates only on CW using an obsolete Bulgarian military transmitter and receiver, as well as lots of home brew equipment for HF and VHF. His desk is always full of tools, parts, test instruments and equipment under construction. Using a Windom type wire antenna for 9 bands Yoan worked over 200 entities. Yoan has nice color-photo QSL cards.
   Next to see was Nick LZ1NG, an electronics technician licensed in 1975. His wife Bistra LZ1BV, is an electrical worker licensed in 1980, and their two sons: Angel LZ3AX, 20 years old, graduated a computer school, licensed in 1992, and Stefan LZ1EEE, 15 years old, high school student, is studying computers. As if these are not enough hams in one family, there is also Bistra’s father Stefan LZ5GV, and her mother Maria LZ1MID. Stefan and Maria met the first time at the LZ1KSP radio club in 1950 and got married in 1959.
   Nick LZ1NG is a “big gun” and an A1 operator with 326 entities worked. He has many prestigious awards. Bistra LZ1BV has 260 entities worked. They have two Delta Loop antennas, one for East, the other one for West. Their station is squeezed in a bedroom corner, however they have a second station in the village of Krumovo, about 6 miles from Plovdiv, near the airport. There they have a Japanese transceiver, a 1 kW amplifier, a 6 element Yagi for 10 meters (one element is gone with the wind so now remains 5), an inverted V for 40 meters, and a Delta Loop for 20-40-80 meters. Both have QSLs and their E-mail is [email protected].
   Georgi LZ1CW, a retired electrical technician licensed in 1950, met his wife Vera at the local radio club in 1953, and married her in 1955. It seems that in Bulgaria the radio clubs are more than places one can learn code and operate a station. Georgi has a Kenwood TS-120S, an MFJ antenna tuner, a 2 element Quad for 10-15-20 meters, a 2 element wire Yagi for 40 meters, and a long wire for 80 meters. Georgi has QSL cards and despite the fact he has a computer, he does paper logging. His E-mail is [email protected].
   We also went to visit Kosyo LZ1OI, an electrician licensed in 1985. Kosyo has equipment covering two desks: an FT-101E, computer, test instruments, a homemade power amplifier for 2 meters, and various accessories. He uses a Delta Loop for 10 meters, a sloper dipole for 20 meters, two 5/8 Lambda ground planes for 2 meter packet and repeaters. Kosyo is a DXer but works only SSB; his color-photo QSL card is very nice.
   Next to see was a family of four licensed hams: Anton LZ1VJ, licensed in 1987, his wife Zelja LZ3VP, licensed in 1990, both telecommunications technicians working for the phone company, and their daughters, 12 years old Nadia LZ1NAD, and 10 years old Maria LZ1MAD, both licensed in 1996. They use an assemble of old Bulgarian military equipment the type I saw in many ham shacks; it has five units, one on top of the other: transmatch, power amplifier, transmitter, receiver, and power supply. This gear is usual used with a homemade VFO for transceiver operation. On 2 meters they use HTs.
   The last to see in Plovdiv was Rumen LZ5OL a photographer with a “C” license, his wife Tony LZ1BOL, a museum curator with a “D” license, and her 22 year old son Rosen LZ1RAZ, also with a “D” license. They operate only VHF talking mostly with local friends. They don’t use QSL cards. I slept very comfortably in Nick LZ1NG’s place.
   Plovdiv is a second largest city of Bulgaria. I was hoping to meet many more hams but organizing the visits was not great. Not too much to write about Plovdid, so I tell you about a friend who before goes to sleep places on his night table a glass full of water, and one empty. One may ask why? Because he may be later thirsty, on may be not.
   How about another friend who entered his boss’s office, threw all his papers on the floor, poured his coffee on his head, ripped off his telephone and cursed him in three languages until his colleagues yelled:
   “Stop it John! We were just kidding; you did not win the big lottery!”
   Another similar one: a man runs in his house and yells at his wife:
   “I won the lottery, now you can pack your bags!”
   “That is wonderful - answers the happy wife - what should I pack, for the seaside or for the mountains?”
   “I don’t care - says the even happier man - just get the hell out of here!”

STARA ZAGORA

   Next day I left Plovdiv for Stara Zagora; the little over two-hour train ride costs 2.70 levas, about $1.50. In Stara Zagora Del LZ1DEC, Ivo LZ3RN, and Kosta LZ1DJ were waiting for me.
   First to visit was Kosta LZ1DJ, a radio technician at a broadcast station, licensed in 1971. Kosta proudly displays his callsign on the back window of his car. Kosta, using 100 Watts with an IC-706 transceiver and a wire dipole for 10-12-15-17-20-40 meters, worked over 200 entities, mostly on CW. On 6 meters he is using a HB9CV type antenna and he also operates CW, SSB, and FM on 2 meters. Kosta has QSL cards.
   Next to see was Ivo LZ1RN, a teacher of Bulgarian literature licensed in 1992. Ivo is running 100 Watts with an IC-728, a homemade power supply, and a dipole for 10-15-40 meters. He operates CW, RTTY, and SSB, and has worked over 250 DX entities. He is using a computer and has nice QSL cards.
   I also went to see Subby LZ5SS, a lt.colonel and radio engineer, licensed in 1994. Subby has a Yaesu FT-707, and various antennas, as he likes to build and experiment with aerials. His son Nick LZ5SJ is a college student in Varna, and his daughter Anni LZ5SU is in college in Burgas. In Subby’s radio shack I met a couple of other hams whom I visited later. Subby has QSL cards in various colors.
   We went to see Vlad LZ1DQ, a retired telegraph operator, licensed in 1964. Vlad has a RFT type old receiver from East Germany, the Drake line, a 400-Watts amplifier, a 2-meter transceiver and a 6-meter transverter, all homemade. He has several antennas: a Delta Loop for 40 and 80 meters, a ground plane for 20 meters, a modified G4ZU for 10 meters, a 10 element Yagi for 2 meters, and a 21 element Yagi for 70 cm. Vlad is a DXer with over 300 entities worked, a contester and an award hunter. Vlad has QSL cards.
   Gandy LZ1GST, no relation to Mahatma, was the next to see. A mechanical engineer licensed in 1996, Gandy is using a small IC-706 MK2, a homemade power supply, and a multiband wire dipole for 10-15-20-40 meters. For 2 meters he is using a Diamond ground plane antenna. Gandy is a DXer, works on CW and SSB, and is a good QSLer.
   Dimo LZ1ON, a lt. colonel licensed in 1996, is one of the hams I met in the shack of Subby, LZ5SS. He has a homemade 40-Watts transceiver, a computer, a Delta Loop antenna for 40 and 80 meters, and a dipole for 15 and 20 meters. Kosta LZ1DJ made his 5/8 Lambda ground plane for 2 meters. Dimo is a DXer, works CW and SSB, but I did not see any of his QSL cards. Dimo’s wife Svetla LZ1TB is an elementary school teacher operating only on 2 meters, his 20 years old son Daniel LZ5OE is in college studying economics, and his 14 years old son Galian LZ1GON is in high school. I have to mention that years ago a Bulgarian army officer would not have accepted the visit of an American, and even less to be photographed.
   Roussko LZ1RT was another ham I met first in Subby’s house. Roussko is the distributor for Alinco and Diamond products, he was licensed in 1985 and now has a class “A” (extra) license. He is using an IC-706 MK II G, pushing 100 Watts into a wire dipole for 6-15-20-40 meters. Roussko worked over 150 DX entities. His wife Nina LZ3VR is his secretary; she was licensed in 1992 and now has a class “C” license. Roussko has cards, Nina does not.
   While I was photographing Roussko he reached for his umbrella hanging near the window. I did not know if the umbrella was loaded or not, or had or had not a poisoned tip but just to be on the safe side I took cover behind his wife Nina. I remembered that years ago, in 1978, a Bulgarian dissident named Gheorghi Markov who dared to criticize the communist regime was killed in England with the poisoned tip of an umbrella. Recently it was disclosed that the job was organized and directed by a Soviet agent as a brotherly favor to Bulgarians.
   The last to visit in Stara Zagora was a father and son team: Zhivko LZ1GDR a civil engineer working by the army, and his son Del LZ1DEC, a high school student, both licensed in 1997 and having class ”C” licenses, thus can operate only on VHF. They have a small 2 meter rig with a 4-element Quad antenna. They use a computer. Del’s English is very good. They don’t have QSL cards. I slept in their house and the next morning Roussko LZ1RT drove me to Kazanlak.
   Here is a space filler: a kid comes home from school and asks his father:
   “Dad, why my is mom running in zigzag in the backyard?”
   “Shut up - says the father - and bring me more bullets.”
   Another one. In a museum a visitor is asking a guard:
   “It is not too boring to stay all day long without anything to do?”
   “Not at all - answers the guard - there are always plenty of tourists asking the dumbest questions.”
   The last one, for this chapter anyway. A man is taking a test for his ham license. The examiner reads his answer and says:
   “There are two possible good solutions to this problem. Unfortunately you have chosen a third one.”

KAZANLAK

   In Kazanlak I met Nasko LZ1YE and his large radio amateur family. Nasko is an electronics technician, but now owns a printing plant and they make flyers, brochures and many of the most beautiful color-photo QSL cards used by LZ hams, competing with the ones made in Japan. Nasko was licensed in 1971 and has a class “A” license. He was very active, has many awards like the 5BDXCC, US Counties, is on Honor Roll both for Mixed and SSB, and many more. His wife Nassy LZ3FF, licensed in 1990, has a “B” license, and is a teacher of Bulgarian language. Nasko’s father Peter LZ3YE, licensed in 1993, has a “C” license, is a cabinetmaker and electrician. Nasko’s daughter Petya LZ3YW, licensed in 1990, has a “B” license, she graduated a radio communications high school, and now is taking care of her baby. Nasko’s other daughter Anny LZ3YP lives and works in France. Both daughters were national champions in high-speed telegraphy. Nasko’s brother Koly LZ1DB, an electronics technician, owns a store with equipment for amateur radio. Six members of a family all hams! Their station is squeezed in a small storage space, perhaps used to be a pantry, right near the kitchen. They have several antennas. The most impressive is a Quad installed high on the roof of the building with wide-open spaces all around. Nasko has a real beautiful QSL printed by his own company “Tempo” and his e-mail is [email protected].
   Most of the hams in Kazanlak are members of the Thracian Rose Club, a group of DXers.
   Next to visit was Don LZ1OJ, a mechanic, licensed in 1989. Don is using a transceiver; a 250-Watt power amplifier and a power supply, all homemade. He is member of the Thracian Rose Club, works mostly CW, has over 265 DX entities, and uses a very nice color-photo QSL card printed by his friend Nasko LZ1YE.
   With Nasko LZ1YE, Don LZ1OJ, Milen LZ5DB, another member of the Thracian Rose Club, and Aleko LZ3ZZ we all went to LZ1KOZ club station, near Lake Koprinka, about 4-5 miles from Kazanlak. During contests this station is using the LZ5W call. I operated for awhile on 40 meter SSB, making about a dozen QSOs with Hungarian and Romanian stations; some of the operators I knew personally from previous visits. The station has a Yaesu FT-890 and a huge homemade power amplifier sitting on floor; they said that is of 1 kW but I believe they were just modest. They do have QSL cards, tons of it.
   What is most impressive about this station are the four 80 foot towers; one having a 4 element Yagi for 40 meters on a 64 feet long boom; other supporting a 6 element Yagi for 20 meters on a 73 feet long boom; a third one with a 6 element Yagi for 15 meters on a 48 foot boom; and the fourth one having a 6 element Yagi for 10 meters on a 38 foot long boom.
   No wonder the LZ1KOZ club station won so many national and international contests; they have a large number of awards to prove it.
   We had lunch in a nearby restaurant where Aleko LZ3ZZ works as a waiter, then we went to see Todor LZ1BP and his son Peter LZ3PN, both national champions in high speed telegraphy. Todor, a metallurgical engineer, licensed in 1993, has a class “B” license. Peter, a student at the Technical University of Sofia, licensed in 1996, has a “C” license. Both work only CW using a homemade 100-Watt transceiver, a Windom antenna for 40 meters and a ground plane for 15 meters. Todor made his Yambic key that works very well.
   Next to see was Kancho LZ1DY, an electronics technician licensed in 1953. All his equipment was made by him. His Quad is gone with the wind, now is using a multiband wire dipole antenna. Kancho has no QSL cards.
   Andy LZ1RB is a mechanic by profession; he was licensed in 1981. He has a Yaesu FT-767GX, a 5 element Yagi for 15 meters, and a Delta Loop for 40 and 80 meters. He has nice color photo cards printed by LZ1RW and is a good QSLer. His Yambic key was made by Todor LZ1BP. He showed me some copies of the now defunct “LZ 73” magazine edited by Jordan LZ1UC and published years ago by the Bulgarian Federation of Radio Amateurs.
   The last to visit in Kazanlak was Marin LZ1RW, a mechanical engineer, club operator from 1967, licensed with his own call in 1981. Marin has two occupations: he works in automatization of power stations and runs a printing shop with Liubomir LZ2EV where they make beautiful QSL cards both for Bulgarian and foreign hams. Ironically, his own cards are quite simple. His Quad has also gone with the wind, it seems that is the fate of many Quads. Now is using a 7 element Cushcraft Yagi for 10-15-20 meters. Marin works CW and SSB and has over 150 DX entities. His E-mail is [email protected].
   I spent the night in the house of Milen LZ5DB and early next morning I took a train to Sliven.
   Talking about trains, at a railway station a man with lots of luggage is asking the conductor:
   “Are there seats on this car?”
   “Yes Sir, there are many.”
   The man loads up all his bags just before the train leaves.
   “However - continues the conductor - there are people seating on them.”
   Another one. On a train a traveler is asking the conductor:
   “Is smoking permitted in this compartment?”
   “No, this is a no smoking car.”
   “From where are all these cigarette butts?
   “From people who did not asked.”
   The last one, I promise. At a railway station restaurant a traveler is asking the waiter:
   “When is my steak coming? I will miss my train.”
   “Don’t you worry Sir, it won’t be so big.”

SLIVEN

   I left Kazanlak for Sliven by train early in the morning. I was sleepy and tired from the previous day. I mixed up my toothpaste with my shaving cream, as I did a few times in the past. They look so much alike. Let me tell you, one can shave with toothpaste but brushing the teeth with shaving cream will bring you fast to the real world.
   The cost of the two-hour ride was 2.10 levas, less than a bus or subway ticket in New York City. The cars were dirty and in need of a good overhaul. The train was running like a very old jogger: ran for a while than it slowed down and rested. It stopped often waiting for other trains coming on the same tracks from the opposite direction. Good that it did.
   At the Sliven railway station four hams were waiting for me: George LZ1WM, Stoian LZ1VN, Ivan LZ11GWM, and Dimiter who gave his callsign as LZ1KDZ which is a club call. Ivan LZ1GWM said he came as a translator. They argued a lot among themselves about where to go and what to do. The only one of these four hams who really had a station was George so we went to see it.
   George LZ1WM, a retired electronics technician licensed in 1956, has indeed a nice station shared with his wife Vesa LZ1SG, a retired insurance clerk, licensed in 1964. George has class “A” license; Vesa has class “C.” George has QSL cards, Vesa does not. They use a tablefull of homemade equipment and some old manufactured ones. He can run up to 1 kW. For antenna they use a multiband W3DZZ and a dipole for 20 meters. George was a very active DXer and contester. A wall is full of awards, pendants and medals. He worked over 300 DX entities.
   They said that the amateurs in Nova Zagora, about 20 miles from Sliven, want to meet me. This trip started to be an ego trip until I realized that Stoian and Dimiter had some business there and no hams were looking for me. We stopped at the radio and TV repair shop of George LZ1NE, a class “A” ham who had only a 2 meter rig. His daughter Darina LZ1DNI has a class “D” license.
   Stoian and Dimiter left about their business saying they will come back in 45 minutes. They returned after two hour. I would have totally wasted my time but another ham came by, Stoian LZ1STO, and I convinced him to show me his station what was only a small 2-meter rig, and a homemade power supply, on the top of a washing machine. The antenna is a HB9CV. Stoian is a policeman and works only on 2 meter FM. He has no QSL cards. His young son Vasko, is operator at the LZ1KTS club station, he took the test and was waiting for his personal license.
   We returned to George’s TV repair shop and when the Stoian and Dimiter finally showed up we returned to Sliven. Again a lot of arguing in the car and they said they will show me a radio club. We stopped at a Day Center for Social Rehabilitation for Disabled People. That again looked kind of phony to me. The above name written on a cardboard in English and misspelled, was hanging on the entrance, in a town where very few people spoke any foreign language. On a table two 2 meter rigs were placed, a world map was hung on the wall, and they said that is the club station LZ1KMK. I even made up a callsign for them. Then I was introduced to some handicapped people, each gave a name and a call: Mitko LZ1WMM, Pepa LZ1WPD, Ani LZ1WAR, and Desko LZ1CDD who did not seems to have any handicap. Later I found out that LZ1KMK, the call claimed to be of their club, really belongs to a school. I saw through this “Potemkin village” setup but I went along because even if this particular arrangement was not real, but the idea of creating a radio club in a center for disabled people is great, and more of these should be created.
   My whole day in Sliven would have been wasted if it would not been for Ivan LZ3BF whom I met at lunchtime and he organized the visits for the rest of the day. First we visited Rumen LZ3RT, a sergeant, radio amateur since 1992, with a “B” license. His wife Nelly LZ3UI, a secretary, licensed in 1993, has a “C” license. They have a homemade 50-Watt transceiver and power supply, and a dipole antenna. Rumen prefers 40 and 80 meter CW and SSB; Nelly works only on 2 meters. They don’t use QSL cards.
   Next we saw Hristo LZ1HM, a mechanic who retired from a textile factory. He was licensed in 1965 and has “B” class. Hristo has a very nice station, lots of equipment, all homemade. His antenna is a W3DZZ for 10-15-20-40-80 meters. He operates CW, RTTY, SSB and 2 meter FM, and he does have QSL cards. His 22-year-old grand daughter Magdalena, licensed in 1998, has class “C”. She is studying international tourism.
   Ivan LZ1GM has a small station in a living room corner; licensed in 1967, he is test instrument specialist. He uses a homemade 50-Watt transceiver, and a 300-Watt linear amplifier. His 4 element Yagi for 10-15-20 meters is fixed on Germany because he talks mostly with a friend living there. He operates only on SSB but he is also on packet. Ivan has QSL cards, I don’t know if he sends any because it was quite difficult to find them.
   I saw the neat station of Ivan LZ3BF, a police officer licensed in 1992. He is using modern Japanese equipment, a computer, and a dipole for 10-15-20-40-80 meters. Ivan works CW, SSB and 2 meter FM. He is a DXer with over 180 entities, a contester, and has QSL cards.
   Stanyo LZ1JD is an electronics technician; he was licensed in 1986. Stanyo has a SB-101 and a homemade 300-Watt amplifier used with a wire dipole for 20-40-80 meters. He also built various accessories like an electronic keyer with memory. Stanyo works CW, SSB and 2 meter FM. He does have QSL cards.
   I asked every ham I visited if he or she has QSL cards. Almost everybody assured me “of course!” Then I asked them to give me one. Some found them readily; others had to look for them. There was also a group who could not find them. They gave a whole new meaning to the words “of course.” Just like the immortal words we hear on the bands so often “QSL - no problem.”
   The last ham to visit in Sliven was Svetlin LZ1SJ. He also has a nice all homemade station: transceiver, linear amplifier, electronic keyer, power supply, and voltage regulator. The antennas are a dipole for 40 and 80 meters, a Delta Loop for 15 meters, an HB9OP type of ground plane for 10 meters, and an HB9CV over HB9CV type of antenna for 6 meters. Svetlin works CW, SSB and keyboard CW. He is a DXer with 215 entities, on 6 meters he worked 61 countries. Svetlin has QSL cards.
   We were talking that I need a place to sleep and I am looking for an inexpensive place. I suggested to Ivan LZ3BF who is a policeman to put me in jail for the night. He said that is not allowed, anyway they have there only a jail for 500 women. “Holly Ghost” I said “That would be a dream above all expectations! To be locked in for a night with 500 women who did not see a man for months or years. I may not come out alive in the morning, but what a glorious way to go!” Unfortunately I could not convince Ivan and I slept in Rumen LZ3RT’s house. I dreamed that I was in jail but it was no nightmare at all.
   However once I had a real experience with jails. Long ago, while I was still living in Romania, I was curious to see how a jail looks like. A friend who was a police officer took me to his place of work, introduced me in a filthy and crowded cell and pretending that he has something urgent to do, left me there locking the door. Some of the inmates started to pull of my clothes and take off my shoes. They robbed me right inside the police station. Believe it or not, in that moment I lost all my interest in the criminal justice system.
   After a rough start, Sliven came out right after all.
   I was often asked:
   “You travel so much, don’t you wish to have a quiet, pleasant family life with a nice loving wife?”
   “I certainly do, every time I am at home.”
   Let me tell you about a ham and used equipment dealer John Q. Smith W0XYZ who passed away. A major radio amateur magazine ran an announcement:
   “John Q. Smith W0XYZ, the well known ham and advertiser in this publication, became a Silent Key and changed his QTH from earth to Heaven.”
   Shortly after, the editor received an E-mail:
   “John Q. Smith W0XYZ did not arrive here. Please inquire down under. 73 from [email protected].

BURGAS

   In Sliven I took the 5:25 AM train and arrived to Burgas on the Black Sea at 8:00 AM. The ticket was 2.30 levas, about a dollar and a quarter. At the railway station three hams were waiting for me: Stefan LZ3OE, an electronics technician working for the army; Stoian LZ3QX, a radio communications sergeant, and Todor LZ5QZ, a high school student.
   I went to the Hotel Bulgaria, a nice place right in the center of the town and five-minute walk to the railway station. A double room set me back with 56 levas, tax included, which comes to about $30.00. Breakfast was included in the price, but because next morning I left early before the restaurant opened, I got a bag with two sandwiches and an apple.
   First we all went to the radio club LZ1KSN sponsored by a large chemical plant, located at the Cultural Center. I took there some photos then left to see the station of Stefan LZ1RN; an electrical engineer licensed in 1981, now having a class “A” license. Stefan has an IC-735, with a homemade power supply, and a 1 kW amplifier feeding a 2 element Quad for 10-15-20 meters, installed on a homemade tower. He also has a Delta Loop for 40 meters, an inverted V for 80 meters, and a 2 element Delta Loop for 15 meters fixed in the direction of the U.S. Stefan is a DXer with 301 entities worked, has several awards, does computer logging and has QSL cards.
   Next to see were Deko LZ1QV and his wife Ginka LZ1GW. Deko for 25 years was a radio officer on cargo ships, now is purser on an oil tanker; he used to operate Maritime Mobile. Ginka is studying economy at the university. They use a computer, a Kenwood R-100 communication receiver, a Yaesu FT-990 and an allband Delta Loop antenna. Deko has worked over 100 DX entities and they have his and hers type QSL cards.
   We went to see LZ1KRB club station located in the town park by the seaside. There I met several amateurs. Ivan LZ3GM, a broadcast engineer with class “A” license, his father Kancho LZ3MG, Nick LZ1ZM, a former seaman, now port traffic controller, and others. The station has a TS-830S, a RFT EKD-300 general coverage receiver made in East Germany, and an old 1.5 kW marine station. They have an allband 265 feet long wire, and a wire dipole for 15-20-80 meters. They do have QSL cards.
   Later I visited George LZ1CGM, a mechanical engineer licensed in 1993. He has a small station, operates only on SSB, and has no QSL cards. He has DX cluster and does computer logging. George uses a dipole for 80 meters; a Diamond ground plane for 6-10-15-20-40-80 meters, and a 4 element Yagi for 6 meters.
   We took a trip to the village of Dolno Ezerovo, just 4 miles outside Burgas, to see the station of Nick LZ1ZM. Nick uses a Kenwood TS-820 pushing 100 Watts into a Delta Loop for 15 meters or in another Delta Loop for 20 meters, or in a dipole for 80 meters. For 2 meters he has a ground plane. Nick operates CW, Pactor, RTTY, and he is on packet. His E-mail is: [email protected].
   Next to see was Boyko LZ1QN a shipbroker licensed in 1987. Boyko built a new house 25 miles North of Burgas, about 4 miles West of Sunny Beach. There Boyko uses a TS-850S with a 700 Watt homemade amplifier. His antenna is a 6-element log periodic for 10 to 20 meters. Boyko is a DXer with over 240 entities, and a contester. He has a picture postcard type of QSL showing sites of Sunny Beach, a playground for tourists and the local rich.
   We also went to see Nick LZ1OE, a chemical engineer licensed in 19972 with a “B” class license. Nick has the five part military equipment I saw in many ham shacks: an antenna tuner over an amplifier, transmitter, receiver, and a power supply on the bottom. Nick is a very good builder; he made for himself a transceiver, an electronic keyer, a modem, and other various gadgets. He operates mostly on CW and uses his computer for packet radio. On the lower bands he uses a long wire; for 2 meters he has two HB9CV type of antennas. Nick’s son Stefan LZ3OE has a class “C” license, his daughter Mira LZ3ON has class “D.”
   The last to see in Burgas was Todor LZ5QZ, a high school student licensed in 1995 with class “C.” He is the son of Kolyo LZ1QZ, a class “A” licensee. They have a Yaesu FT-707S and a homemade antenna tuner. The antenna is a Delta Loop for 80 meters. They have another house about 45 miles West of Burgas, the grandparent’s house, where they have a second station. Todor LZ5QZ and his father Kolyo LZ1QZ are contesters, and both do computer logging. I did not see any of their QSL cards.
   After I finished with the last visit, I went to McDonald to eat; where else would a cautious American go? Talking about food; a woman goes to the police station and reports:
   “A week ago I was making hamburgers for dinner and my husband went to the store to get some pepper, but did not return. What can I do?”
   “Spaghetti - said the policeman - it is good and doesn’t need pepper.”
   Later I went to the hotel to sleep asking for a 4:45 AM wake-up call because my train was leaving for VelikoTarnovo at 5:20 AM.
   Burgas, after Varna, is the country second largest port city. Lots of ships, lots of seamen. One of them goes to a tattoo parlor and asks for a portrait of his faithful and devoted fiance to be drawn on his chest. The artist asks how she looks like. The seaman shows her photograph.
   “Oh, that’s Stefka, I can do her quite well from memory!”
   Another seaman is telling his friends a story:
   “Once during a big storm I fell in the water. I almost drowned when a beautiful mermaid saved me and took me to the shore.”
All his friends expressed their strong disbelieves. The seaman got angry:
   “Why don’t you believe me? Can’t you see with your own eyes that I am alive?”

VELIKO TARNOVO

   This was a longer train ride because I had to cross the Balkan Mountains from southern to northern Bulgaria. The first class ticket for the five hour ride was 8.95 levas, less than $5.00 however I had to change at Dabovo where according to the schedule I had three minutes between trains. My train was late; so what’s new? Fortunately the second train was also late so I caught it.
   We went though many tunnels in complete darkness, some short ones, others long or very long. A man traveling with his girlfriend said to her:
   “If I would have known that his tunnel is so long I would have taken advantage of it.”
   “Oh, that was not you?” replied the surprised but contended girl.
   I arrived finally to Veliko Tarnovo and Kiril LZ2JA, an electronics engineer, the director of Chamber of Commerce and Industry was waiting for me.
   First we went to the village of Kutsina, about 12 miles North of Veliko Tarnovo, to see George LZ2VT; an electronics technician licensed in 1971, with a class “A” license. George has a Kenwood TS-830S with a separate VFO-230, a second homemade transceiver, and three linear amplifiers, all homemade, one of 350 Watts, the second of 800 Watts, and a third one of 1 kW. There is no shortage of power there. On his 32 feet high tower, installed 6.5 feet from the ground, George has a 2 element Quad for 15 and 20 meters; he also has a horizontal Quad for 80 meters. He worked over 100 DX entities. George has a nice color photo QSL card and his E-mail address is [email protected].
   I was often introduced as an American amateur originally from Romania. I sometimes felt that some local hams were kind of disappointed with me; they expected to see a real “Yankee imperialist” but what they got was a half of imperialist and half of a Balkan. Anyway, they thought, half of an imperialist is better than no imperialist at all, so they were kind to me.
   Next we went to the village of Polikraiste to see Rumen LZ2DD, a barman, licensed in 1988, with a class “A” license. Rumen has a homemade 50-Watt transceiver, a transmatch and a power supply, and a 4 element Quad for 10-15-20 meters on the top of an 80-foot tower. He is a DXer, has over 200 entities, worked mostly on CW. He worked LU1SM, Carlos Saul Menem, the President of Argentina. Rumen has QSL cards, I wonder if he sent one to Menem.
   We also visited Kiril LZ2ZK, licensed in 1969, an electronic engineer, presently dealing with corn, wheat and sunflower. He has a FT-575GX with a 1 kW Kenwood linear amplifier TL-922, a homemade power supply and an antenna tuner. He has a 3 element Yagi for 10-15-20 meters, a 4 element Yagi for 6 meters, a Delta Loop for 80 and 160 meters, and a 13 element cross Yagi for 2 meters. Kiril operates CW, RTTY, and SSB, does computer logging but is not too much for DXing. His wife Gina LZ4ZI has a “D” class license. Kiril has a very nice color photo QSL card, but considering that he is not doing lots of DX he will have them for a very long time. His E-mail address is: [email protected].
   Next Kiril LZ2JA took me to the Military Academy to see the LZ2KMS club station and some of its operators. Years ago it would have been unthinkable for an American to go even near of a Bulgarian military installation and take photograph of smiling high ranking officers.
   The club station has a TS-830S, a TS-780 and a couple of huge obsolete military gear donated by the army. I met a father and son team: Khristo LZ4XG an army colonel, and his son Kaloyan LZ2GKX, a sergeant; a second colonel Ilia LZ4JO; a third one Ivan LZ4IX, and Wasil a cadet at the Academy, club operator without personal call. The wife of Khristo LZ4XG is Jordanka LZ4UJ, and his daughter is Gergana LZ4VF. The wife of Ilia LZ4JO is Kari LZ2GKV, his son Todor LZ4ZP is a cadet, and his daughter is Diana LZ2GID. The wife of the third colonel Ivan LZ4IX is Ganka LZ4UI, a teacher, one daughter is Zornitza LZ4XZ, an army sergeant, and the second daughter Petya LZ4XJ is a college student. All three colonels are professors at the Military Academy. LZ2KMS is a contest station; they worked over 200 DX entities, on CW, RTTY, and SSB. They do computer logging and they have QSL cards. The computer is also used for high-speed telegraphy practice. They also have a shop for constructions.
   As we were leaving the Academy we met Mike LZ2NW, a sergeant and the president of another radio club, LZ2KBA, contest call LZ6T.
   We went to see the personal station of Ilia LZ4JO located in his attic. He has an IC-728, and homemade 250 W amplifier and power supply, as well as homemade antenna tuner and electronic keyer. He has two dipoles, one for 40, the other for 80 meters, and is working on a 4 element Yagi for 20 meters. Ilia worked over 100 entities only on CW. Ilia has a nice color photo QSL card with his call and those of his two children.
   We also visited Kiril, a retired radio technician, licensed in 1992. He uses a homemade 50-Watt transceiver and a 100 Watt linear amplifier. His antenna is a Delta Loop for 40 and 80 meter. Kiril operates only on CW and he has QSL cards.
   Next to see was the station of another Kiril: LZ2JA, an electronics engineer licensed in 1969, now the director of the local Chamber of Commerce and Industry. His station is located in the attic, in a separate room from his apartment. Kiril has a FT-990, a second transceiver and a transverter for 2 and 6 meters, both homemade, as well as various pieces of old military radios. Kiril has four 4-element monoband Yagis for 6, 10, 15, and 20 meters, also a dipole for 40 and 80 meters. He operates packet, RTTY, Amtor, and PSK 31. One computer is for logging, the other one for RTTY. Kiril’s office secretary is Genka LZ2GYK, with a “D” license. Perhaps a radio amateur license is a job requirement, it wouldn’t be a bad idea.
   We visited Nick LZ2JF, an electronics technician licensed in 1964. He is using an all-homemade station: transceiver, 400 W power amplifier, power supply, and various accessories. His antenna is a W3DZZ for 10-15-20-40-80 meters, and he has two dipoles for 17 and 30 meters. He is a DXer, a contester and an award hunter; he has the 5BDXCC, 5BWAZ, and many other prestigious awards. Nick operates CW, RTTY and SSB. Some of his QSL cards picture a rose reminding people that Bulgaria is the land of the roses.
   The last one to visit in Veliko Tarnovo, the ancient capital of Bulgaria, was Angel LZ2UG, an electronics technician licensed in 1972. His station is in a small room that looks more like a Voodoo temple than a radio shack, and Angel could be mistaken for the high priest. Lots of pictures and various objects related or not to amateur radio are hanging from the walls. Angel worked over 250 entities, only on CW, received several awards and likes to build and experiment with antennas. He has a Delta Loop for 80 meters and a Russian designed vertical for 10-12-15-17-20 meters. Angel has a nice QSL card.
   In the evening, Kiril LZ2JA, Kiril LZ2ZK (there is no shortage of Kirils in Bulgaria), the three radio amateur colonels and their families, and myself, met in a little restaurant and we had a long and pleasant conversation.
   I finished my job; I went to the hotel to sleep. I have to mention that a single room in Hotel Yantra was 22 levas for a Bulgarian and $42.00, about 79 levas, for a foreigner. Probably to show their love and esteem for hard currency. Figure that out.
   In the morning, I got up in a hurry, Kiril LZ2JA was waiting for me in front of the hotel to take me to the railway station. I left the hotel without taking my passport which according to the old and present rules, has to be left there until one departs. At the railway station, 16 minutes before my train was scheduled to leave I remembered my passport. Kiril jumped in his car and went to get it. The train arrived, everybody got up, I stayed near it waiting. At one moment I saw Kiril running towards the train with my passport in hand. I threw my bags on the train, got on the steps, the moment Kiril handed me the passport the train left for Russe.
   If this was not enough for excitement I had another one on the way. At Gorna, a locality somewhere between Veliko Tarnovo and Russe, everybody from my car got off. I stayed there
alone. Nobody else is going to Russe? I got suspicious and took my bags and also got off the train. I found out that part of the train was detached and directed to another destination. Nobody mentioned this possibility. I rushed to the front of the train, got up in a car marked Russe, I asked six people where are they going, and I found out that this time I was in the right place. The whole ride lasted about two hours at a cost of 2.10 levas, a dollar and a quarter. It was cheap and the excitement was thrown in for free.
   An amateur goes to Africa on a DXpedition. In a village he sees the witch doctor hitting his tam-tam drums. He inquires:
   “What is the problem?”
   “Here no water.”
   “Are you asking the mighty spirits for a rain?”
   “No way! I am calling that lousy plumber!”
   Another story about water. A ham that never took a bath with warm water and soap was getting married. A day before the wedding his mother sent him to a public bath to clean himself for the special occasion. Upon his returned he exclaimed:
   “I never would have believed how many people are getting married tomorrow!”

RUSSE

   At the railway station Mike LZ2ZD was waiting for me. He is a broadcast engineer working at the local television station; the building in shape of a tall needle is very contemporary, as is the equipment it houses. Mike was licensed in 1984, he graduated from the Technical University of Sofia and is still a proud member of his “alma mater” radio club, LZ1KDP. He is using a “Volna” type transceiver made in the Ukraine with a homemade 400 W amplifier. For 2 meter packet Mike has a Yaesu FT-290. He has three dipoles for 15, 20 and 80 meter bands. Operates SSB and RTTY, worked over 100 DX entities. He works in contests as member of the LZ2KIM team. Mike has QSL cards and his E-mail address is: [email protected].
   Next to visit was Ivan LZ4IP a computer programmer licensed in 1991. He is using all homemade equipment: a 5 band transceiver, a 100 Watt linear amplifier, a 5 Watt transceiver for 80 meters, two 2 meter transceivers, even a 386 computer used for packet. Ivan has a wire dipole for 20-40-80 meters and works only SSB. I did not see any of his QSL cards.
   Mike LZ2ZD took me to Nasko LZ2AD a radio officer on cargo ships, licensed in 1982 with a class “A” license. He has lots of homemade equipment like a transceiver and a 1 kW linear amplifier crowded in s small built-in closet type space. Nasko operates CW and SSB and has no QSL cards. He has four separate dipoles for the 15, 20, 40, and 80 meter bands. His wife Jordanka LZ2IJ is a computer operator with class “C” license. His son Nedko LZ4HO is a baker.
   We also went to see Rumen LZ2AF, a college professor teaching Computer Architecture and Networking. Rumen was licensed in 1979 and has a class “A” (extra) license. He used to be active on lower bands; nowadays operates only on 2 meter FM because of lack of time and equipment. While he is one of the trustees of LZ2KIM club station of the University of Russe, Rumen is still member of the LZ1KDP radio club of Sofia. His wife Snejana LZ2AFS licensed in 1996 with a “B” class license (kind a general-advanced), is a real estate broker. Rumen’s E-mail address is: [email protected].
   Next to see was Bojidar LZ2BO, a college professor teaching Analog Electronics and Signal Processing. He was licensed in 1985. Bojidar, or Darry on the air, has a Kenwood TS-50 allband 100-Watt transceiver used with wire antennas. For 2 meters he has a Ten-Tec. His son Razvigor LZ2CO works in Paris, France, while his daughter Zorry LZ2LJ studies in Germany.
   The last station to see in Bulgaria was of the Technical University Student’s Radio Club, LZ1KIM. When we arrived, Rumen LZ2AF was already there trying to make it presentable, but it showed poverty and neglect as the entire building did. The shortage of financial support affected amateur radio in the entire country; many radio clubs were closed, equipment deteriorated, the enthusiasm of the amateurs declined. This club used to be very active with lots of operators. It still has a Kenwood TS-830, a homemade 250 Watt linear amplifier, and another of a 1 kW. For antennas they use wire dipoles. They do have QSL cards.
   I heard a story: in a Sunday school one of the student is asking the priest:
   “Sir, can we smoke while we study the Bible?”
   “No, you can not do that” answered the strict and knowledgeable priest.
   “But can we study the Bible while we smoke?” asks another student.
   “Of course you can, my dear students” acknowledged the devoted clergyman.
   Another one about education. Little Ivan comes home from school and his father is asking for the report card.
   “I don’t have it.”
   “How come?”
   “I loaned it to my friend Kosta; he wants to scare his parents with it.”
      And one about religion. A tourist is visiting a small town and the local guide is showing him around.
“Here is the Greek Orthodox church, there is one for the Catholics, across the street is a Jewish synagogue and that building is for the Baptists.”
   “Are they any atheists in this town?”
   “They could be, but they don’t have a church yet.”

EPILOG

   With this I finished my tour of Bulgarian amateurs. I slept in the guestroom of the television building, an arrangement made by Mike LZ2ZD. In the morning Mike took me to the railway station, I boarded the train that took me across the Danube river, all the way to Bucharest, Romania. There I changed trains and after another 9 hours I arrived to my native town of Timisoara where I rested a few days before I took a plane back to New York City.
   Tracking back with my story I have to tell that in compartment I traveled from Russe to Romania, besides me there were five Bulgarian ladies, over the border traders. They were packed with merchandise they intended to sell in Romania. I was the only one in my compartment who had train tickets. When the conductor came I presented my ticket and the ladies, according to the local customs, gave him some cash. Later when the control came, he just stuck his head in the door and asked:
   “Everybody has tickets?”
   Before I could answer, the five ladies, none of them had any, replied a loud:
   “Yes, of course!”
   The trains and the tracks are in bad shape, dirty and in need for repairs. The railroad administrations keeps raising the price of the tickets to make ends meet, but the money just doesn’t come in; it is filtered down by corrupt employees.
But enough of this nasty social comment. I had a very good time with the Bulgarian amateurs; there are a bunch of very nice guys and gals. I reccomend visiting them but please do not forget; nodding the head up and down means “no.”