How to Replace
the Headphone Jack
in the Elecraft K2/100

Instructions to WY3A from W3FPR
for replacing the headphone jack
in an Elecraft K2

 

Backgound

If you lose sound from your Elecraft K2 speaker, but you still have audio in the headphones, chances are good the problem is with the very fragile headphone jack.  The internal switch has broken.  This happened to my K2.

I didn't build my K2, so I figured a little guidance in how best to disassemble it would be good.  So while waiting for the part to arrive from Elecraft, I dropped an email to Don, W3FPR, asking for a few simple steps to access the little jack for replacement and any tips he might pass along.  Don responded with a detailed step, by step repair sequence.

Knowing that these little jacks often fail, and that more K2's are owned by hams who didn't build them, I figured I'd make Don's excellent response available here, with his permission.

Thanks to his written guidance, I accomplished the entire repair in one evening after dinner and was done in time to write and publish this web page before bed.

 

Repair Procedure (by Don, W3FPR)

I am going to tell you how to get the entire K2 disassembled (well almost).  It takes more to explain than to do it, so don't be intimidated.

Remove the KPA100 first - that is 6 screws.  Two in the front top just behind the front panel, one each on the sides - center top, and then you will see that the rear panel is divided into 2 parts.  Remove the two screws from the lower corners of the upper part.  The KPA100 should then be free to move upward - grasp it from the back and pull up enough so the side clips clear the side panels.  If it gives too much resistance, loosen the screws a bit on the left side panel.  Then flip the KPA100 'on its back' to the right onto a book or box about half the height of height of the K2.  Remove the coax and DC cables from their headers, remove the speaker from its header, and remove the multicolored ribbon cable from the header on the Control panel.  The KPA100 can now be placed to the side.

Remove the 6 screws from the larger part of the bottom panel - the part toward the front.

If the K2 contains the KAF2 or KDSP2, that option must be removed next (skip if not installed) - behind the Control Panel to the left side. 

If it is the KDSP2, take anti-static measures and pull the upper board toward the rear - put it in a place free of static.

For the KAF2 and the remaining part of the KDSP2, there is a screw in the middle of the board, remove it and pull the board toward the rear of the K2.

There are two screws (or 1 screw and a standoff) fastening the Control Board to the Front Panel.  Remove them.  If you have trouble finding them, peer between the control panel and the front panel and you will find two standoffs - those screws fasten into those standoffs.

Look down just behind the control panel on the left of center and you will see a screwhead and a label next to it "LIFT HERE" - use a long handled hex wrench (the one supplied for the knob setscrews) - insert the short arm into the hole behind that screwhead and move the long arm toward the rear to lift the Control Panel out of its connectors.  Place the Control Panel aside.

Now remove the 4 screws holding the Front Panel assembly (2 top and 2 bottom).  The front panel can now be pulled straight to the front away from the RF board.

That will expose the headphone jack both the top and bottom.

If you have any difficulty removing the soldering from the headphone jack, crush the body with pliers or whatever tool works and remove the pins one at a time, then clean up with solder wick and install the new jack.

Reverse the disassembly instructions to get it back together.  When replacing the KPA100, tuck the ribbon cable and speaker wire up into the area between the KPA100 front panel and the heatsink and toward the top of the Control Board - it may be easier to remove the right side panel to tuck those wires up there.

73,
Don 
W3FPR

 

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