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See also Building_Desoldering_Notes

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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 05:58:48 -0600
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?=22D=2ER=2E_Weiss_KI=D8RP=22?=" <ki0rp at arrl.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re clearing holes in pc boards

Yes, that's what I do.  The point of a safety pin works wonderfully; 
they're plentiful and they come in different sizes.

Dave Weiss KI0RP
K2 #2249

At 06:10 AM 10/17/01 -0400, ken cubilo wrote:
>i think it has been mentioned here before but here goes again. a
>old motorola service trick to clean pc holes after removing parts
>was to use  a product much like a dental pick made of stainless
>steel . simply heat the pick push it GENTLY thru the hole and
>remove the soldier that is hanging on it. the hole is clean
>73 ken w8ob

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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:20:09 EDT
From: ZarubaJr at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Minor thought for improvement

In a message dated 10/17/2001 04:17:46, g4ilo at qsl.net writes:

>You ain't the only one, after the problems I had removing the components
>to
>do the KI6WX mod to the KSB2. It was very hard to get those holes clean
>enough to get those big pins through.
>

What's the beef?

1. Clip component from lead.
2. Heat remaining lead, and remove.
3. Add solder to pad, until there is a nice little puddle on the pad. I call 
this step "priming the pump". It makes the next step significantly easier.
4. Apply desoldering braid to pad and heat, watch the patented "capillary 
action" at work.
5. Admire the nice clean hole.

Once I had this skill down, I stopped using a solder sucker.

;-)

73,

John AA2BN
K2 #1912
K2 #1568

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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:20:09 EDT
From: ZarubaJr at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Minor thought for improvement

In a message dated 10/17/2001 04:17:46, g4ilo at qsl.net writes:

>You ain't the only one, after the problems I had removing the components
>to
>do the KI6WX mod to the KSB2. It was very hard to get those holes clean
>enough to get those big pins through.
>

What's the beef?

1. Clip component from lead.
2. Heat remaining lead, and remove.
3. Add solder to pad, until there is a nice little puddle on the pad. I call 
this step "priming the pump". It makes the next step significantly easier.
4. Apply desoldering braid to pad and heat, watch the patented "capillary 
action" at work.
5. Admire the nice clean hole.

Once I had this skill down, I stopped using a solder sucker.

;-)

73,

John AA2BN
K2 #1912
K2 #1568

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Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:51:06 -0600
From: Larry East <w1hue at ida.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Minor thought for improvement

At 03:33 PM 10/17/01 +0100, Julian, G4ILO wrote:
>Dave,
>
>I don't doubt that a good desoldering tool will make the job much easier.
>However, I recall that one of the design aims of the K2 was supposed to be
>that it was buildable with minimal tools. There must be many K2 builders
>like myself, for whom the K2 was their first major constructional project,
>and possibly in some cases the last, who can't afford or justify buying a
>whole armoury of special tools for it given the amount of use they will
>get.

No "fancy tools" necessary -- a good soldering iron, a roll of solder wick 
and a "thin sharp instrument" like an old dental pick or, as someone else 
pointed out, a safety pin!

Use your ingenuity and imagination!

You folks just need to start making more wiring mistakes so that you can 
get more de-soldering practice! :-)


72/73 again,
Larry W1HUE
(Olde Phart in Idaho)

PS -- A good soldering iron/station may be a little expensive (one can be 
obtained in the US for $30 - $80), but that is THE ONE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL 
if you are going to do any building at all. And it will more than pay for 
itself in reduced grief when building something as complex as the K2! Next 
on the list would be a magnifying lamp if your eyes are as old as mine...


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