++++++++++++++++++++++ See also KAT2 Operating Notes +++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 12:05:44 -0500 From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: [Elecraft] A WORD OF WARNING TO ALL K2/KAT2 OWNERS - BEWARE! A WORD OF WARNING TO ALL K2/KAT2 OWNERS - BEWARE! While I was at the FDIM evening session on Friday evening, I opened up my K2 in order to 'borrow' my FCTR probe to facilitate filter alignment in another K2. When I (hurriedly) reassembled my K2 at the end of the evening, I (very briefly) MIS-plugged the BATTERY PLUG onto the AUX RF plug of the RF board. The AUX RF plug is supposed to go to the KAT2, NOT the battery. In doing so, and although the connection was (almost) instantaneous, I managed to blow (OPEN) the contacts of the relay for the 40M Low-Pass Filter. Dumb,Tom... dumb!!! Up until that evening, I'd ALWAYS made it a policy to plug in the ATU RF cable FIRST, so it always occupied the correct connector, thus leaving me no option but to plug the battery into the proper connector. But, I was in a hurry that evening and I wasn't careful.... pfffft! Gone in a heartbeat.. or less. I hope others will profit by my mistake. ALWAYS plug in the KAT2 FIRST... and at ALL times, BE MORE CAREFUL THAN I WAS. 73 - Tom Hammond N0SS +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:34:25 -0700 From: "Steve Thompson" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A WORD OF WARNING TO ALL K2/KAT2 OWNERS - BEWARE! Painting one set of male/female plugs with Liquid Paper will help remind you that those two particular plugs go together ... sorta' acts like that warning horn you hear when you get below a certain airspeed and you don't have three green lights :-) 73, Steve N7TX +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:37:27 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Show 'n'Tell/Firmware suggestion During initial K2 tests, we operated into open loads at 15W indefinitely with no side-effects. The firmware automatically reduces power if it sees the load open suddenly. So damage due to accidental switching of ANT1/2 is very unlikely. On top of that, even beginning ops might notice that all the signals had disappeared ;) We also tested into dead shorts. The firmware drops power if you exceed the programmed current limit (CAL CUR). 73, Wayne N6KR ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 10:32:04 -0700 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Assembly The BNC posts are only used for mechanical mounting of the BNCs to the PCB. We only say not to trim them to save your wire cutters from likely destruction. If you managed to trim them after soldering them, no problem. 73, Eric Clif Squires / K2 wrote: > > When assembling the control board, I clipped all excess leads. Later > on, the instructions say to clip all leads *except* the gound posts on > the BNC connectors. I cannot find any use for the posts in the manual. > Why are the posts to be saved? And do I have to replace the BNC > connectors or can I fabricate the posts? > > Clif KD7LQC ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:11:14 -0700 From: "Ed Juge/NM" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help with KAT2 Found the problem. Replaced D1 & D2 in the ATU (even though they seemed to test good. ATU is now working again. Thanks to all those who replied!! 73... Ed, W5EJ K2 # 1886 - ----- Original Message ----- > My KAT2 had seemed to be working until this past weekend when I began to get > hi swr notification with power adjusted to even 5 watts. I discovered that > with the power setting at 5 watts, actual output into a Bird 43 was between > 10 and 15 watts. (Operation and readings are okay with the KAT2 > disconnected.) Seems to me the problem almost has to be in the SWR bridge > portion of the ATU. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 18:19:58 -0700 From: "John Moriarity" Subject: [Elecraft] The Dreaded CALn. Hi, I finally got around to building my KAT2, and have a question about the CALn procedure. If I set the power below about one watt, everything seems to work. The output at U4 pin 1 is 3.xx volts. If I set the power higher (like the recommended 5 watts) instead of getting the CALn voltage to null, I get a display of the power setting instead. Is this right? Help!! I have Version 1.04 firmware. 73, John, K6QQ, #1200 ---------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 12:54:01 -0700 From: "John Moriarity" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The Dreaded CALn. I found my problem. What a sucker trap! I had the wires reversed to J7. It *almost* worked, which was very confusing. Check...recheck...recheck...recheck... 73, John, K6QQ Leaving on vacation tomorrow, and *really* want to use the ATU! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 21:47:30 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 and KBT2 connector We're about to put a change into place that will at least partially solve the problem: assuming we can find another color of connector of this type, the DC connectors (male and female) will be a completely different color from the RF connectors. Details later. It will be retrofittable. Unfortunately a PCB layout change would be required to switch to an entirely different connector type. We may do that, but we also want to improve the situation for present K2 owners. 73, Wayne N6KR Ed Juge/NM wrote: > > Unfortunately, Tom, I suspect there will be two types of K2 owners... at > least those of us with the battery option... along the same lines of pilots > of retractable-gear airplanes: There are those who HAVE landed wheels-up > and those who WILL land wheels-up. > > It's too bad Elecraft can't come up with a different, retrofitable connector > so this isn't an issue. That was, as far as I'm concerned, their one and > only "design flaw." And no, I'm still in the "those who will" camp. > > 73... Ed, W5EJ7 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 17:40:07 +0100 From: Brendan Minish Subject: Re: [Elecraft] rubber ducky I know it's sort of off topic but I made a 40m SSB QSO over a couple of miles with the 2m Rubber duck off a yaseu FT23R which the KAT2 managed to tune for me. A 2m rubber duck is a real bad antenna on 40m but what really impressed me was that the KAT2 could tune it. 73's De Brendan EI6IZ - -- Brendan Minish EI6IZ ei6iz at oceanfree.net PGP key available from key servers wwwkeys.pgp.net +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 20:25:18 -0700 From: "John Moriarity" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 -- Bridge Null Problem Sounds like what I saw when I had the leads to J-7 reversed. Check that carefully (I didn't). 73, John, K6QQ ------------- Original Note... Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 22:33:59 -0400 From: "Steve Lawrence" Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 -- Bridge Null Problem Things have progressed very well on K2#2033... Until now. My KAT2 powers up correctly, menus displaying on the K2, relays clicking through the various menu settings. DISPLAY shows 12V at 0.22A......... BUT, when attempting to perform the Bridge Null Adjustment (p16, KAT2 manual) strange behavior is observed.... I set the freq to 7150, power to 5.0, Ant 1 selected, and dummy load/watt meter plugged into Ant 1. So far, so good. When I hold TUNE I get a HiCur warning. (I don't get this without the KAT2). Cal Cur is at 3.5A. I turn the power down so there's no HiCur warning, around 3 watts. Hold TUNE. The display shows "P 3.0" not the desired "000 Atu". To get the correct "000 Atu" display, the power has to be further reduced to < 1w. So, I adjust C55 to read "000 Atu" at the very low power. Turning up the power and holding TUNE gives me the "P 4.0" style power display. HiCur is back on. The external wattmeter shows output at/near the set value. I remove the KAT2, set the power to 5w. DISPLAY shows 12V at 1.6A. I crank power all the way up to 15w and DISPLAY reads 12V at 3.00A. External wattmeter reads very clost to 15w. Suggestions as to where to look to resolve this KAT2 behavior? Thanks! Steve aa8af ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 00:50:28 -0400 From: "Steve Lawrence" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 -- Bridge Null Problem SOLVED! YES! Thank you, thank you, thank you! That did it... Except J-7 was wired correctly, BUT..... P6 connector on the RF board was backwards! Soooo, by reversing the ground/hot in J7 behavior appears normal. When I get around to it, I will reverse P6 so the K2 is in "spec". Good thing this was the problem. As I moved through the bands, I was seeing all kinds of bizarre display distortions, random characters, and garbage. Looks like pumping a couple of watts into system ground pretty much throws *everything* off! This cured the Hi Current warnings as well. Now, the lowest reading from Atu CALn I can get is about "010 Atu". I can't get down to zero. Is this a concern? Many thanks John! Have a great weekend! I see mine is looking up! Steve aa8af --------------- Orig message ------ "John Moriarity" 06/08/2001 11:25 PM Please respond to "John Moriarity" To: "Steve Lawrence" , cc: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 -- Bridge Null Problem Sounds like what I saw when I had the leads to J-7 reversed. Check that carefully (I didn't). 73, John, K6QQ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 22:15:46 -0700 From: "John Moriarity" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 -- Bridge Null Problem SOLVED! > YES! Thank you, thank you, thank you! > That did it... Glad to help. It was a confusing situation, since it "almost" worked. > Now, the lowest reading from Atu CALn I can get is about "010 Atu". I > can't get down to zero. Is this a concern? No, I don't think so. Mine didn't go to zero (I don't remember just where it bottomed out) but it is working just fine. > Many thanks John! > Have a great weekend! I see mine is looking up! Enjoy, Steve. That's what this group is about. 72, John, K6QQ Alturas, CA, at the corner of 299 & 395. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:02:36 +0100 From: "Kenneth Miller" Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 Problems Well, I finally got around to installing the KAT2 in my K2 (#455) and much to my surprise it didn't blow anything up. This is because I wanted to do the install of this before I went ahead and did the firmware upgrade and KIO2 installation. Well that was about where the fun ended. The lowest I could get the null was 009 and when I checked the voltage on pad "B" it was fine in receive, but only about 4 millivolts on Tune (it's supposed to be 3-4 VOLTS) according to the errata sheet I have. If this had checked out OK the I was to install R6 and close the rig up. The R1 adjustment went great though and 5W on the meter is exactly 5 W out. In addition, all the bands show a 1.0 to 1.2 to 1 on SWR into my dummy load so that looks OK. Any ideas of what could be making the voltage reading on pad "B" look so weird? All comments and help are much appreciated and thanks to all in advance. 73, Ken K6CTW ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:29:15 -0700 From: "Lyle Johnson" Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT2 Problems Hello Kenneth! When I built my ATU, I found a problem like yours - I don't recal if it was exactly the same. The problem in my case turned out to be the "polarity" of T1 (page 5). If you look at the illustration in the manual, you could say that starting from the 2-4 end of the bilfilar winding, the turns go "clockwise" through the core. By that I mean they pass over T1 then down through the center of the core, then come the bottom and around again going towards the 1-3 end. I wound my T1 "counterclockwise" through the core. By that I mean, the 2-4 end came under the core, passed through the center coming up, then over the top of the core and continuing in a clokcwise direction towards the 1-3 end. I had to rewind T1 to exactly match the sense of the illustration, then things worked fine. And a "null" count of 009 is just fine. 73. Lyle KK7P > The lowest I could get the null was 009 and when I checked the voltage on pad > "B" it was fine in receive, but only about 4 millivolts on Tune (it's supposed to be > 3-4 VOLTS) according to the errata sheet I have... > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:15:08 -0700 From: "Douglas Westover" Subject: Re: [Elecraft] TRANSVERTERS Hi Guy, If you use the menu to set the "ATU" mode to either CALP or CALS you essentially bypass the tuner. Then just use the appropriate ANT (1 or 2) to drive the transverter. 73, Doug W6JD - -----Original Message----- From: guyg To: ELECRAFT at LISTSERVER.QTH.NET Date: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 4:10 PM Subject: [Elecraft] TRANSVERTERS >Hello to the Elecraft list, > I need a little friendly Elmer advice.My question is:What is the >correct way to connect a transverter to a K2 with the ATU installed.Do I >have to disconnect the ATU and connect to the "standard" output or >?.Thank you,Guy kb3ckw >Still learning the code and a lot of "other" things. > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2001 09:04:29 -0400 From: "Veatch, James C. (JCV)" Subject: [Elecraft] Travel Woes Hello, I just got back from a camping trip and was getting ready to install my KIO2 when I noticed that my KAT2 was "not installed". After a bit of troubleshooting I discovered that the unit must have been bounced around during my trip because apparently the 4.0 MHz resonator on the KAT2 got smashed between the battery and the socket of the U1 on the KAT2. Maybe something to look for if you've been traveling and your KAT2 doesn't work. 73's, Jim WA2EUJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 10:03:23 -0700 From: lhlousek Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Calibration Observation/Problem? Hi Fran, <>> In my experience and from what I heard from others that sounds about right. In CALP the transmitter is operating open loop so the power drifts up as the final transistors heat up. It is a moving target as you try to do CALP. I use an iterative process where I note power readings with my RF probe to the display on the K2 stop transmitting, make a small adjustment and hit TUNE again and see if they agree. After a couple of trials I can get it within .1 watt or so. My C55 null was in the same range as yours. Twirling the trimmer around 10 or 20 times seemed to help settle it down and make it less touchy. Lou W7DZN ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:30:09 -0700 From: Gary L Surrency Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power questions... An SWR/wattmeter connected between the KAT2 and the reactive antenna cannot be trusted for accurate readings. This is because there are standing waves on both sides of the external SWR/wattmeter with an unmatched load, causing it to read incorrectly. Standing waves still exist all up and down the feedline on a mismatched load. The only time this would work, is if the antenna or load is very closely matched to the feedline characteristic impedance or Z (usually 50 ohms). The tuner eliminates the complex reactance and/or Z mismatch as seen by the transmitter, not as seen by the external SWR/wattmeter. The SWR on the feedline is basically unchanged outside of the transmitter-to-tuner path. Additional losses in the feedline will exist if the SWR is high, and are unaffected by the tuner since the feedline always has a characteristic Z that does not change with the tuner in the line. A tuner does not remove this feedline-to-antenna mismatch except as far as the transmitter is concerned so it can work into a near-50 ohm resistive load to deliver maximum power. The impedance seen at the antenna cannot be changed by the tuner, nor can the characteristic Z of the feedline be changed, which is usually 50 ohms for most coax fed antennas. 300 ohm or 600 ohm balanced line has the lowest loss when feeding non-50 ohm reactive loads, and special tuners or baluns are needed to make the Z transformation to non-resonant antennas. Most wattmeters are designed and calibrated to expect a 50 ohm resistive load or source at least on one side of their input or output. This apparent inconsistency has come up a number of times. The match between the KAT2 and K2's PA output stage is the only place where the readings are accurate and reliable, assuming you have accurately calibrated the KAT2 as described in the manual. This is why the KAT2's SWR sensor (T1) is located where it is in the RF path, on the input side of the tuner. This also applies to the K1 and its KAT1 tuner, and just about any other rig/tuner combination. If the antenna is a poor match, you must rely on the rig's internal SWR or power meter readings, and not on any readings seen externally on the feedline path to the antenna . Conclusion: always rely on the SWR/wattmeter readings between the tuner and transmitter, not between the tuner and antenna. Tip: If the KAT1 or KAT2 tuner cannot achieve a low SWR, try adding or shortening the feedline or antenna length slightly. This often will present a load the tuner can match better. Without forced-air cooling of the PA heat sink, you should keep the K2's power level near or below 5w when operating 100% duty cycle modes such as rtty or PSK31. Make sure the PA mounting hardware is snug but not over tightened. Gary Surrency AB7MY On Thu, 20 Sep 2001 00:21:31 -0700 "John Clifford" writes: > Greetings fellow Elecrafters, > > I have a question concerning the power output of my K2. > > I recently replaced my PA transistors that blew during a PSK31 QSO > due to > incorrect mounting of the heat sink and therefore insufficient heat > transfer. > > My new PA transistors are mounted strictly according to the factory, > and the > heat sink is receiving heat. Boy, is it receiving heat! I noticed > during a > recent PSK31 QSO that the heat sink part of the case was getting > very hot. > I checked my power setting and it was at 5 watts according to the > K2's > display, but the rig was drawing an excessive amount of current > (reaching > over 2.4 watts and finally resulting in the HIGH CURRENT message). > I > figured that maybe a high SWR was causing the problem, so I re-tuned > the > KAT2 and got the reported SWR down to 1.2 by using the ATU Alt menu > setting. > I further checked the power output on an external meter, and it was > showing > that the K2 was transmitting at nearly 10 watts. I turned down the > power > knob until the external meter showed 5 watts (and the internal > display > showed about 3.5 watts), at which time the current display showed > around 1.6 > amps being drawn. This did let the K2 transmit cooler but needless > to say I > quickly and succinctly ended my QSO. > > Anyone have an idea as to why the K2's internal power meter would > not track > very closely to an external meter? I have never noticed this before > with my > K2 (nor have I noticed it with other radios... usually the two power > meters > are within 10% of each other). > > As a note, I just installed the KIO2 interface... everything checked > out > fine on the preliminary tests as pertains to current (might draw > 20mA more > than without it), voltage check, and functionality. As an aside, > Zakanaka > also supports the K2 (via 'Kenwood') and I'm playing with other > stuff. I > did have the Rev. A Control Board and I made the mods as per the > KIO2's > manual. > > I'm open to suggestions, because I don't want to have to be worried > about > whether I'm going to fry my K2 if I use it. > > - jgc > > John Clifford KD7KGX > > Heathkit HW-9 WARC/HFT-9/HM-9 > Elecraft K2 #1678 /KSB2/KIO2/KBT2/KAT2/KNB2/KAF2 > ...waiting for KPA2! > Ten-Tec Omni VI/Opt1 > > email: kd7kgx at arrl.net ++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 22:17:18 -0700 From: "David Castor" Subject: [Elecraft] K2 ATU Problem Resolved Thanks for all of the responses on my ATU HI CURR problem. ATU is working OK now - no more HI CURR. Gary Surrency at Elecraft had the solution. I sent him an e-mail Saturday night and he answered it on Sunday - you can't ask for better support than that. Turned out to be a weird glitch with the new 2.01 firmware and ATU in some rigs causing 8R line to stay high in TX mode. I just set the "8R Hold" function to "8R nor" in the "t-r" menu and everything is working OK. Gary says the newest firmware version has corrected this. The tip-off to the problem is the fact that when display is in V/I mode the HI CURR goes away. So, I guess I'm ready for the Audio Filter now. 73, David Castor - K7EL +++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 07:58:20 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tuning Question.. Jay & Jackie wrote: > I've noticed that when I return to the same frequency daily and push the > "Tune" button on my K2 it seems to automatically be tuned. Does the tuner > remember from band to band the relay positions? Or do I need to reduce > power and retune when returning to a recent frequency? Hi Jay, The KAT2 will not attempt to re-tune at all if the SWR is 1.2:1 or better. If it's at or below 2.0:1, it will do an "optimization" pass which takes very little time. So what's probably happening is that your antenna is being tuned up to somewhere between these two (1.2 and 2.0:1) by the KAT2. You can avoid the re-tune by pressing TUNE and DISPLAY at the same time. This will force the KAT2 to display forward and reflected power rather than do a re-tune. If the final SWR shown after hitting TUNE is 1.2:1, but the KAT2 *still* does a re-tune each time, it's probably because there's some interaction between your hand position and the K2 chassis. This can slightly affect the initial load impedance seen by the KAT2, and is especially likely if you're using a nonresonant antenna that presents a very high impedance to the tuner on a particular band. In this case there's likely to be a lot of RF on the chassis. I'd suggest using a balun at the output of the tuner, in conjunction with better grounding of the K2 chassis. 73, Wayne N6KR ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 09:05:49 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tuning Question.. Wayne Burdick wrote: > > Jay & Jackie wrote: > > > I've noticed that when I return to the same frequency daily and push the > > "Tune" button on my K2 it seems to automatically be tuned. Does the tuner > > remember from band to band the relay positions? Or do I need to reduce > > power and retune when returning to a recent frequency? > Jay, I may have mistaken your question: I thought you meant that the tuner re-tunes every time you press TUNE. Did you mean that it seems to be *already* tuned each time? That's the way it shoudl be, since the KAT2 stores all L/C settings for all bands (and for both the ANT1 and ANT2 positions). Also, power is automatically reduced to 3 watts when the KAT2 is tuning the antenna, so you don't need to do this manually. (This feature was added starting with revision 1.05.) 73, Wayne ++++++++++++++++++ From: "N4ZZK at mindspring.com \(radio\)" To: "Paul Hendershott" Cc: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 R6? Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 05:38:37 -0500 Paul, Its easy to miss but look on page 17 step 5 of the "bridge null adjustment." gl, 73, Al N4ZZK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hendershott" To: Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:34 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 R6? > At the risk of appearing "thick" (not the 1st time :-o), I finished > putting together the KAT2 antenna tuner, but with a leftover component: > R6. I know where it goes on the board, but I must have missed where in > the instructions it said to install it. Have I missed a step or is R6 > only installed with the use of certain additional options? Thanks > Paul kb9yvp K2 #2278 ++++++++++++++++++++++ Reply-To: "rich a." From: "rich a." To: "Paul Hendershott" , Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 R6? Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:30:59 -0500 Paul, I'm also in the middle of assembling my KAT2. Looks like maybe you missed the errata sheet KAT2 errata sheet dated Mar. 29, 2000, found on the Elecraft web site under builders resources, KAT2 Automatic Antenna Tuner (ATU) Notes. The errata sheet instructs to change step 2 on page 4 to delete installation of R6. Then there is a section of the errata sheet which adds 5 steps which is to be cut and added to the bottom of page 16....the 5th (last) step instructs to add R6 on the bottom of the control board. The KAT2 instructions I'm using are Revision B, Feb. 14, 2000 , which I got when I ordered K2 #1102 in April 2000. Hope this info helps. Rich KB2CPE K2 #1102 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hendershott" To: Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:34 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 R6? +++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Alva Anderson W5VCJ" To: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 R6? Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 09:18:09 -0600 Paul, I just finished this myself for #1918, and I can tell you I had real trouble on the null bridge adjustment. One of my friends suggested turning the power down to 1W from the recommended 5W in the alignment procedure. While 5W was jumping all over the place, 1W worked FB. Also, Gary at Elecraft emailed me when he got back from vacation with the same recommendation. So, if you have trouble with the null bridge alignment at 5W, just crank it down to 1W and C55 should be a bit easier to adjust. I can tell you that it is still extremely sensitive to adjustment, but at least it is achievable. Andy W5VCJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Alva Anderson W5VCJ" To: Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge Null Adjustment Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 20:51:37 -0600 If you look at the circuit, you will see WHY you needed to wait for the install of R6. Just pull up one end, do the null bridge, then re-install that end when you get to that step. Notice that I was unable to make my KAT2 null adjustment at all until I turned the pwr down to 1W. Since Gary also suggested this as a solution, you'll find it makes hitting the 00x much easier. Mine would not get there without turning it down to 1W. After that, everything went FB. Andy W5VCJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Castor" To: Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 6:55 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge Null Adjustment > Is there any problem with doing the C55 adjustment with resistor R6 already > installed? > > Thanks, > > Dave - K7EL ++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Dan Barker" To: "Elecraft" Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 07:38:53 -0500 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 Alert #2 - Errata Mar. 29. New manual Where you say to delete "Delete R6 from the list of resistors to be = installed in this step" in an Errata or Alert, all is well because it = draws the builders attention to the fact R6 is not to be installed. = However, the new manual has this already been done, so there is a great = liklihood you'll install R6 anyway. It's mentioned in the text ("[Don't = confuse R6 & R5]"). I didn't install R6 then, but later in assembling the boards, there is a = picture showing R6. The text even says "[see R6]". So THEN I put in R6, = scratching my head. Later, when the null was difficult, I removed it = (difficult with the boards assembled). The null was still difficult, but = I got a 004. Then I put R6 back. Suggestion: Add a note "Do not install R6 until later" or fix the Art = and description. Or both. Dan / WG4S / Ex K2 #2456 ++++++++++++++++++++ Message: 7 To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 20:19:34 -0700 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noisy band changing From: Gary L Surrency If the KAT2 atu is installed, it does emit a little digital noise during band changes before its microcontroller goes back to sleep. This noise is heard mainly on the higher bands, but is generally not noticeable on bands below 17m. Gary Surrency AB7MY On Sun, 3 Feb 2002 14:10:31 +1100 "Bill Scovell" writes: > Phil, > Looks like we are the only ones to have observed this > operational aberration. In any event it's nice not to be alone! > Tks for your response or I would have felt lonely. > > Bill Scovell / VK2SOE > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Phil Wheeler > To: Bill Scovell > Cc: > Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 3:53 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noisy band changing > > > > Bill Scovell wrote: > > > > > Hi Gang, > > > I'd like to share a problem I am experiencing with K2/1946 with > latest > > > firmware revision. > > > I'm getting a brief but disconcerting burst of noise when > changing > > > bands 'downwards' from 24MHz to 21MHz and from 18MHz to 14MHz. > When > > > going from 24 to 21 the noise is like a burst of static, but > from 18 > to 14 the noise has a raw oscillatory character around 500Hz. > In both > > > cases the duration of the noise is less than half a second. > > > >I think the "burst of noise" was introduced in the latest > firmware .. > > and relates to extending the life of the relays. This from > memory of a > > message. I definitely hear it from time to time. > > > > Phil ++++++++++++++++++++ From: "Kirby J. Davis" To: Elecraft Reflector Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:39:56 -0500 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 Power Calibration Hello, In finishing the KAT2 kit this morning everything appears to be= going well. However, in the "Power Calibration" section I'm having some= trouble but it may be because I just don't have an accurate wattmeter. I'm trying to use a Radio Shack 21-534 Power/SWR meter to set the= power calibration. However, with the K2 set at 5 watts and R1 and= R2 set fully clockwise I'm showing about 9 watts on the RS meter and= 5.0 watts forward/0.0 watts reverse on the K2 display. Any adjustment= counterclockwise on R1/R2 just lowers the value shown on the K2 display. Do I need to worry about anything? Am I going to have to purchase= something like the Oak Hills Research WM-2 wattmeter kit so that= I can correctly set the K2 or should I just get close with the RF probe/DMM alternative method? If I should go the RF probe method is this referring to the RF= probe built during the K2 construction? Also, I'm not quite clear on= the instructions for using this alternative method (described on page= 17 of the KAT2 manual)... could anyone clarify the procedure for= me? Thanks! .. Kirby +++++++++++++++++ From: "Dan Barker" To: "Elecraft" Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 Power Calibration Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:50:36 -0500 Kirby, I went the RF Probe way, and this is how it worked for me. I = don't know (or really even care) how accurate it is. You are trying to get the metering in the K2 to match "reality". = However, the metering in the K2 directs the RF power level. So, if you = set 5 Watts on the K2, and the metering circuit says 6 watts (right, = wrong or indifferent), then the K2 will reduce power. If you then adjust = R1 down and re-key, then the K2 will still try for 5 watts, and the = metering circuit might now say 4 watts (due to the R1 setting), so the = K2 outputs more juice. As these settings interact, it is a bit touchy to tweak without an = accurate power meter. With an accurate external power meter, you adjust R1 for the K2 reading = and the external meter reading matching, not for a specific value. I set my K2 on 5.0 watts, and keyed. If the RF probe voltage was above = 15.8, I'd turn R1 down a bit (key up) and re-try. Vice versa for under = 15.8. For R2, I matched the resistance from the wiper to ground on R1. It was = noticably different than just setting them to the same location = visually. Hey, I THINK I'm sending 5 watts, I SAY I'm sending 5 watts, and since = this is just a hobby, I BELIEVE I'm sending 5 watts. YMMV. Dan Barker / WG4S / K2 #2456 I just don't have an accurate wattmeter. ++++++++++++++++++ From: "Jay Rutherford" To: Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 19:03:19 -0500 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ATU Troubles Reply-To: k1uc at adelphia.net Richard, After I installed the new upgrade I had HI CUR problems and was about to tear the ATU apart for troubleshooting. A reset cured the problem. I was field testing the KIO2 with the new firmware and had to reset once more along the way. You might try that before pulling the ATU out. 73, Jay K1UC in Waterbury Center, Vermont, USA GRID FN34 Email: K1UC at AMSAT.ORG K2#1034 ++++++++++++++++++ To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: lbailey at aep.com Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:40:26 -0500 Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 Problem Solved Since the completion of my antenna tuner for my K2, I've found that my K2 did not always recognize that the KAT2 was installed. After eliminating some probable causes.....checking for skipped or cold solder joints, missing parts, wrong parts installed, etc., Gary sent me replacement parts for U1 & Z1...the microcontroller & ceramic resonator. I replaced U1 first & turned on the K2 and it did not recognize the antenna tuner. Then I snipped the leads on Z1 & replaced it. Power up & walla.....it's been working fine ever since. Now to reconnect the coax to the window screen....hi, hi. Hats off to Gary Surrency & the fine staff at Elecraft for development of a fine rig & accessories & for providing SUPER SUPPORT!!! 73, Lynn, K5AVJ...K2#1411 ++++++++++++++++++ From: BobDobson at aol.com Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 10:33:37 EDT To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net, support at elecraft.com Subject: [Elecraft] FYI: Flaky KAT2: Symptoms and solution I'm presenting this to all just in case anyone else builds a KAT2 tuner that seems to be haunted. After completing my KAT2 and proceeding to perform the alignments, the tuner began to exhibit what I refer to as a case of the "intermittent flakies". The K2 would do what looked like a power-on reset every now and then, and the KAT2 alignments themselves would not work at power levels much above 1w. If I sent test messages using the built-in memory keyer, usually in the middle of the message the K2 would reset itself. If I removed the KAT2, everything worked fine. Before calling in an exorcist, I went about seeing if I had done something really stupid in the assembly department. I did. The real miracle was it only took me about 10 minutes to figure it out! The solution: "Thou shalt not install the AUX RF connector RF-P6 on the RF board backwards". There are two ways to fix this: either remove the heat sink and turn P6 around, or switch the coax shield and center pins on J7 on the KAT2. I opted for the latter for now. The worst thing that can happen is make my KAT2 plug-incompatible with everyone else's'; not a problem. After doing this, the KAT2 performed just as the manual indicated, with no damage to the KAT2 or the PA section in the K2. 73, Bob WA4FOM ++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:33:37 +0100 To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: Trevor Day Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Thanks Guys, I've just located the problem; a solder bridge at C45 on the control board. This produced the ground connection seen below. Trev G3ZYY In message , Trevor Day writes >Hi All, >Just completed the KAT2 and have come up against a small problem. The >unit appears to be permanently 'stuck' in the antenna 2 configuration >although everything else appears to work perfectly (it loads a random >wire on all bands 160 - 10m). >The front panel indicates Ant1 or Ant2 when the button is pressed but >nothing changes; there is no 'click' from relay K18 either. At this >stage I don't know whether the problem is the relay or the switching >voltage from the pic. Pin 26 (RC7) appears to be at earth potential ie >shorted when checked wrt chassis. Visual checks appear correct > >Is there a way of operating these relays whilst in cct but with power >off eg by applying a battery derived 5v ? I would like to confirm that >the relay is the problem if possible. > >Failing that, any other ideas? > >Thanks, >Trev G3ZYY #2637 -- Trevor Day ++++++++++++++++++++ From: "James C. Hall, MD" To: "Helmut Usbeck" , Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT2 problem Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:06:53 -0500 Helmut: Connect your dummy load directly to the antenna jack using an interseries adapter. I couldn't figure out my problem with hi swr until I did this and found that I had a slight problem with the cable connecting the two ! Jamie WB4YDL -----Original Message----- From: elecraft-admin at mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-admin at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Helmut Usbeck Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 11:04 AM To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 problem Completed K2 (#2698) a week ago and had several contacts on 40 meters. The ATU seems to be functioning OK...or so it seems. This past weekend spent some time getting more familiar with the rig and discovered that when tuning up into a 50 ohm dummy load I get an SWR of 4 to 7 along with a high current indication on all bands above but not including 30 meters. -- snip -- +++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 07:19:17 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick Organization: Elecraft To: W2AGN , Eric Swartz Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: KAT2 V1.03? [should be 1.06] W2AGN wrote: > Noticed the upgrade for the K2 ATU (KAT2) software V1.03. > Maybe I missed something, but what does this upgrade do? Is it recommended? John, The KAT2 firmware was actually upgraded to 1.06 (1.04 and 1.05 were internal development releases only). Rev 1.06 allows the KAT2 to work on 60 meters, in anticipation of the future K60XV option. It also has a reduced initial SWR target, so tune-ups are more likely to end up at 1.2:1 or less. The web page(s) will be corrected. 73, Wayne N6KR +++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 21:40:16 -0500 To: Wa2qzp at aol.com From: Dave Gingrich K9DC Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Trouble Cc: elecraft at mailman.qth.net At 22:17 10/8/2002 -0400, Wa2qzp at aol.com wrote: >K2 sn# 2114 on the air with KS2B,KNB2 and KAF2. All work great. Even worked >the 6 meter opening this weekend driving my TEN-TEC xverter. > I need some help on my KAT2 trouble. When plugged in, the tuner >responds to all commands outlined in the manual. I do see E202 when scrolling >through the atu menu. When I try to get power through it I can ony get about >1 watt output in tune and if I just try xmitting and crank up the power it >goes into over current without increase in output. Power out of K2 by itself >is normal. Checked power right off of P6 and it's fine. There is continuity >through the tuner itself. I have to admit to having P6 installed backwards at >first. Any suggestions before I start lifting toriods to check the relays? It is not clear from your message whether this is a new KAT and has never worked, or whether it used to work and has failed. If it is the latter, there is some detailed voltage information in the manual that might help. It could be a power metering failure. Happened to me, I lost both diodes in the directional coupler, giving low power readings, but high current and high actual power on an external meter. ================================================ Dave Gingrich, K9DC - Indianapolis, Indiana USA +++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 05:53:02 -0600 To: "Bill KB9IV" , elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Tuner Question Bill: >I have a question about the K2 internal antenna tuner.........Is the tuner >for the TX side only? I have a G5RV 80-10 meters that has 4:1 to 5:1 with >manual >tuners, the internal tuner loads at a Fantastic 1:1.3 or less all bands >even 160. When the KAT2 is in use, it's in-line for BOTH TX _and_ RX. if it was only on the TX side, you'd hear a LOT of relay chatter under keying, as the IN/OUT relay in the ATU would have to switch back 'n forth. >My observation is this... it's seems to load the TX side excellent but >doesn't improve the receive at all even at a 1:1 match... is this to be >expected? You generally won't notice much, if any, signal improvement on receive unless the SWR presented by the ANT/FEEDLINE is pretty HORRENDOUS! The big obvious improvement is pretty much always on the TRANSMIT side. >I swear the tuner would load a #4 nail It's done more than that! In a couple fits of extreme stoopidity (SIC), I've actually managed to match an EMPTY SO-239. Season's Greetings, Tom Hammond N0SS ++++++++++++++++++