++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:19:13 -0500 From: Mike Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 TX alignment problems Andy Anderson wrote: > K1 #636 (Rev D) seemed to go together fine. The filter cal went fine > using Tom N0SS noise source as input, and almost perfect peaking with > Spectrogram. The receiver alignment is NOT as critical as the transmitter alignment. Your REALLY CRITICAL adjustment of these SAME coils takes place during the transmitter alignment. Precise alignment on receive is a bit of wasted effort. > However, when I got back to page 47 where you are supposed to > mess with the L1, ...L6 setting for transmit, I didn't touch them > since they had been peaked with Spectro. I think THAT is your problem. I have found there to be SIGNIFICANT effects on power output for just slight re-adjustment of L1 to L8 during the transmitter alignment, compared to their previously "peaked" valves from the receiver alignment. There will almost always be some small differences in perceived "optimal" alignment between transmit and receive. Often, the transmitter alignment results in even better overall alignment for receive, but even it it didn't the receiver has a lot of gain to spare, and the transmit adjustments are MUCH more critical and important. > TX test at 5.0 watts seemed to go fine. Did you actually measure 5 watts out on an external wattmeter? > Also, C13 seems to have no "top" or "bottom" Capacitors like C13 go from full to minimum to full capacitance with each 360 degrees of turn. There are no stops, tops, or bottoms like a coil. > Also, the display during TUNE mode (OUT=5W) shows P0.1. The WM-2 > can detect 5W out keying the 817, but the K1 is putting out nothing > measurable. Forget the fancy Spectro-stuff, and tune the K1 transmitter EXACTLY like the K1 manual says. Not peaking L1 to L8 for transmit may likely be the cause of no output, which would result in too small a signal to be heard in the sidetone adjustment phase of the alignment. > I've hesitated to pull the NB The NB can't cause the problems you report. > since I'd have to put C22 back on the RF board to do the testing If you ever want to remove the KNB1 for a while for some OTHER reason, just solder a few millimeters of resisitor lead to the old C22, then stick the leads in the KNB1 board connector pins 4 and 8. If, after aligning the K1 transmitter per the manual, you still have the problems you report, then it will be time to troubleshoot elsewhere. If you do get a healthy output and still can't adjust the sidetone, the Elecraft website has a Builder's Alert on that. But you'll need some output first. Good luck! How about your earlier problem with the s-meter? Was the AGC off? 73, Mike / KK5F +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:06:58 -0500 From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A question based on RE: K1 TX alignment problems Skip: >If I am reading this right Spectrogram can be used to align the K1. Are >there any significantly different steps from the K2 process??? Here's the method I used on my K1 when I first built it: (let's see if I can recall the process now... been a while ago...) At the K1 Manual section entitled COARSE BFO ALIGNMENT... 1) Turn the K1 on, connect an antenna for a band known to produce a LOT of noise (or connect an antenna noise bridge, or a broadband noise generator) to the ANT input of the K1. Select the desired band of operation and tune to a frequency where ONLY noise (no signals) is present. 2) Select the MOST NARROW CW filter you have available. 3) Connect Spectrogram (your PC) to the headphone output of the K1. 4) Put Spectrogram in the Line Mode and running. 5) In Spectrogram, click on Pointers | Freq Mark and place a marker (Marker 1) AT the frequency of the sidetone you have selected to use with the K1. 6) Adjust the AF Gain on your K1 so that Spectrogram is receiving a significant level of band noise (and NO SIGNALS!). If you are using a noise generator of any type, turn it on now. This should produce a trace on Spectrogram somewhere along the baseline, but probably not on top of the Marker 1 line. 7) Locate and adjust C20 to place the center of the peak of the displayed trace on top of the Marker 1 line. Since the same BFO setting is used for all filters on the K1, this should conclude the BFO adjustment. If someone could confirm this set of steps, I'd appreciate it.. it may be a week more weeks before I can reclaim my K1 and test them myself. 73 - Tom Hammond ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:10:32 -0500 To: MagicAggie at aol.com, elecraft at mailman.qth.net From: Tom Hammond =?iso-8859-1?Q?N=D8SS?= Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 tx alignment prob continued Ramiro: >Am I doing the alignment process wrong or could this be an electrical problem? 1. ALWAYS(!) TUNE FOR PEAK OUTPUT!! 2. If the power goes too high, exit TUNE mode, and then RE-ENTER TUNE mode. The ALC will (should) take over again and reduce drive back to 2W output so you can then (again) tune for a higher peak. 3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 until you get no more increase. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 14:56:50 -0500 From: "Morrow, Michael A." To: Cc: Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K1 Problem Hi Phil, Phil wrote: > ... it appears that both 30 and 40 have low output. Looks like I > need to pull off the KAT1 and re-align the rig. Odd thing is that > I use it maybe twice a year for camping and have to re-do it before > each trip. > > I thought replacing the trimmers was the fix for this problem, > but apparently not. I also hoped that periodic re-alignments would become unnecessary after I replaced all the old white trimmer caps on my KFL1-4. I find that I still have to "refresh" the alignment about every six months or so. Now, I'd never lose all power output, but I would find that maybe only 2 to 3 watts could be obtained where at one time a full 7 watts could be had. Still, this is a *great* improvement over what was required when the old caps were still in place. The cap replacement made such an improvement that the mod should be considered mandatory, not optional. I always take a moment to check the power output into a dummy load on each band before taking the K1 out. The re-alignment simply consists of peaking the trimmers for max power output, so it doesn't take long. The main aggravation comes from having to remove the KAT1 and having to tack solder R36 back. Overall, I'm still very happy with the K1, and hardly ever go on a trip without it. =20 > Is there any mod which will fix this periodic re-alignment need > problem? I did one other mod to my KFL1-4 that would help you some. I doubled the size of KFL1-4 40m/30m interstage coupling caps C10 and CK, to 4.7 pF. I did this in order to get full power output across the 170 kHz tuning range of my K1 on 40m. This was recommended in an Elecraft bulletin to compensate for the detuning effects of the old white caps, but it did wonders in slightly broadening the bandpass to allow full power output across the entire 40m CW band. Without it, I could get 7 watts at one end, but less than 2 at the other. Regardless, I can't think of a better multi-band backpack rig than the K1. I simply love mine. 73, Mike / KK5F K1 No. 175 ++++++++++++++++