Amatr Sayfas Dn

Her Mesaj takm, bir kutucuk iindedir.

ALINCO MODLARI

From : PA3HDR

To : ALINCO@EU

Type/status : B$

Date/time : 20-Sep 19:18

BID (MID) : K97DB0ACC01T

Message # : 233359

Title : DJ-191 MODS!

(This message has been read 2 times so far in this BBS.)

 

 

Hello HAM's,

I have found out some mod's for the Alinco DJ-191-e :

(1)

The light normally goes out after a few seconds.

It is possible to have the light stay on.

You have to press the LAMP-button while turning

the POWER on. You can deactivate this by doing

the same again.

There are some more functions :

Activate key lock {KL\FL} :

(2)

#212 : You can transmit and receive between

130.000 and 173.995 MHz

(3)

#824 : Some functions are added now.

F 5 : You are unable to transmit

while receiving (green RX-led ON).

F 6 : An-on \ An-oF ; ???.

F 8 : You can change the length of

the DTMF tones which are transmitted

in DSQ mode or MEMORY transmit.

F 9 : You can change the length of

the first DTMF tone which is transmitted

in DSQ mode or MEMORY transmit.

F 0 : ???

(4)

#618 : Some strange display [15.0 ***] is activated.

Power OFF is the way to get rid of this stupid display.

I do not know what this means.

Thry out this mods, but do never,

!- NEVER - JAMAIS - NOOIT - NIE - MAI -! ,

never try the following. (unless you want to buy a new one)

Never press the UP and DOWN buttons while turning the power ON.

I have tried this out and I will NEVER do this again:

My dear alinco lost everything. The adjustments which

have been made in the factory are LOST. You will

not beleve this. But please DO NOT TRY THIS YOURSELVE !!

I had my alinco for only two weeks and it was sent

back to the factory. I got a totally new print in my alinco.

This was not so expensive as getting my old adjusted again.

I am still interrested in some other MODS for my Alinco (DJ-191)

and MODS for the IC-260

and hope you get some more out of your equipement..

73 from Tom, PA3HDR.

 

--- End of messsage #233359 to ALINCO from PA3HDR ---

**********************

 

From : M1BHU

To : ALINCO@WW

Type/status : B$

Date/time : 05-Mar 10:03

BID (MID) : C30029M1BHU

Message # : 335148

Title : Any mod fr djg5

Path: !I6BNW!IK6DIO!I6DH!IK6IKJ!IK6RUY!IK4ICZ!I4UKI!IV3AVQ!IW3EFI!IW9EXL!

!SV1AAW!HA3PG!PP5BLU!9A0YRB!OK0POK!OK0PPL!OK0PKL!DB0MAK!DB0BOX!DB0ABH!

!DB0SRS!DB0AIS!DB0IZ!ON6AR!PI8HWB!PI8VAD!PI8HGL!PI8VNW!PE0MAR!GB7MBB!

!GB7FYL!GB7FUR!

 

 

From: M1BHU@GB7FUR.#14.GBR.EU

To : ALINCO@WW

 

Hi All

Have been asked by a mate whos not on packet if there are any

mods for his alinco dj5 . Any welcome especialy on the rx side.

73 - BOB, M1BHU @ GB7r 335223

r 335382

r 335404

r 335566

r 335605

FUR

Message timed: 20:24 on 04 Mar 99

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

--- End of messsage #335148 to ALINCO from M1BHU ---

(1) TA2EM BBS (H for help) >

From : F5PBG

To : MODS@WW

Type/status : B$

Date/time : 05-Mar 17:58

BID (MID) : 39507_F5PBG

Message # : 335223

Title : Packet with ALINCO DJ180T

Path: !ON0HU!F5JOE!F1OYP!F8KKA!F5ROC!F8KOP!F6KBN!F8REF!F6KSU!F6KBO!F6KBI!

!F6KSV!F5PBG!F5PBG!

From: F5PBG@F5PBG.FBRE.FRA.EU

To : MODS@WW

From INTERNET :

> I just purchased a TNC last night and was trying to find out how to hook it

> to my DJ-180T Alinco HT. My two other rigs have the required data in their

> manuals, but the Alinco HT does not. Does anyone have the data/circuit

> necessary for the external mic connections to hook up to packet? I will

> publish any replies plus my successful connection diagram when it gets

> done.

>

>

Just got FAX back from Alinco: nice service: about 1 hour and in hard

copy!

 

 

Alinco DJ-180T Packet Connection

 

 

2.5mm stereo plug

 

<----------0xooxoo[[[[]]]]]]]

. | | |

to mic | | |

jack | | |___________________________._______ground (TNC)

| | sleeve

| |__________o Ring - open

| 0.1-1.0 uF capacitor

|________________.______| |__________audio output TNC

| | |

|

|--------/\/\/\/\--------PTT TNC

 

. 4.7-33K ohm resistor

 

 

3.5mm mono plug

<-----------0xoooooo[[[[[[[[[[[]]]]]]]]]]

| |

| |______________________________ground TNC

| sleeve

. | (same as

other plug ground)

|

| tip

|__________________________________audio input TNC

 

2.5mm stereo plug into mic jack

Tip to TNC audio output through 0.1 to 1.o microfarad capacitor

with parallel resistor 4.7 to 33K ohm to PTT switch

Ring open

Sleeve to TNC ground

3.5mm mono plug

tip to TNC audio input

sleeve to TNC ground (same ground as other plug)

 

--- End of messsage #335223 to MODS from F5PBG ---

 

From : F5PBG

To : MODS@WW

r 326368

Type/status : B$

Date/time : 14-Jan 15:29

BID (MID) : 36699_F5PBG

Message # : 326646

Title : ALINCO ALR22T/HT

Path: !I6BNW!IK6PYS!IK6RUY!IW0QMN!WB0TAX!N7NEI!KL7IFW!NX5V!GB7MSF!F5PBG!

 

From: F5PBG@F5PBG.FBRE.FRA.EU

To : MODS@WW

>From INTERNET :

EXTENDED FREQUENCY RX AND TX OF THE ALR22T & ALR22HT

ALINCO 2 METER RADIOS.

BEWARE OF ANY STATIC WHEN WORKING WITH THIS RADIO !!!

1 Remove the top and bottom covers of the radio.

2 Remove the 4 screws that hold the front panel assembly to the main

chassis.

3 Pull front panel away from the main chassis very gently.

4 Locate the Volume\Squelch pot on the left side of the radio.

5 Locate the VFO control on the left side of the radio.

6 Between the two above units is an IC that runs vertically between

the two units. (ONLY THE 12 PINS OF THE IC ARE SEEN FROM THE BACK)

7 After locating the IC locate 3 sets of unsoldered jumper pads between

the IC pins.

8 Make a solder bridge between the top 2 pads,then the middle 2 pads,then

between the bottom 2 ONLY of the bottom set of 3 pads.

REAR VIEW OF FRONT PANEL

/ ------\ 12 PIN O * O /---------\

/ VOLUME \ IC -> |<-SOLDER BRIDGE / \

/ CONTROL \ O * O / \

/ \ / VFO \

\ / O * O \ CONTROL /

\ / |<-SOLDER BRIDGE \ /

\-----/ O * O \--------/

O * O

* DO NOT SOLDER THE TOP PAD

O |< O OF THESE 3 PADS

* \SOLDER BRIDGE HERE

9 RE-ASSEMBLE RADIO .

10 RESET MICROPROCESSOR.

11 This mod will extend the RX range as well as the TX range of the above

unit.The display will have a range from 29mhz to 299 mhz but this is

just an erroneos display as the PLL on a typical radio will rx between

130 mhz and 180mhz with a TX range that may be a little beyond these

these frequencies.

End

 

 

--- End of messsage #326646 to MODS from F5PBG ---

 

ALINCO DR590T MOD INFO

>I just picked up a brand new Alinco DR-590T and have had some problems that

>I would like to share with you all out there in ham-net land. Maybe someone

>out there can help me with a couple of these problems.

I guess not too many people have these rigs yet otherwise I would not have

to respond to your request. I hope there are others besides yourself that

are interested in this information. In any event this is what worked for

me (sans jinglish). I am not however responsible for what you do to your

rig . . . etc.

>1, I got this unit because of all the cool features it is supposed to have,

>including cross-band repeat. The instruction manual does not even mention

>this feature. After calling Alinco I found that this was a feature functions

>only after modification. They said (more than a week and a half ago) that

they

>would send me the modification instructions. I haven't heard anything from

>them.

If you ask them (nicely) there are (a few) dudes at Alinco that are willing

to help and are smart enought to be helpfull (there is a differance ;-}).

They can fax you the information or even send it to you next day air at no

charge if you ask politely or are VERY persistant (as in my case).

Now the big news . . . to modify the rig to xmit out of band (to call the

cops etc ;-}), to operate as a cross band remote, etc. follow these easy

steps.

1) remove the control head from the unit (2 screws on each side of

the forward part of the rig, near the control head).

2) hold the control head in your hand face down and remove the two screws

you see on the back of the control head.

3) remove the cover from the back of the control head (it snaps off)

4) locate a blue loop of wire. There is only one blue loop of wire.

5) cut, unsolder, remove, destroy, nuke, the blue wire (your choice) [I

neither advocate nor encourage the indiscriminate use of nukes]

6) undo step 3

7) undo step 2

8) undo step 1

9) connect the rig to antennas, power etc as outlined in the manual.

10) hold down the function key and turn on the power

 

This is what you will find . . .

The rig now transmits everywhere.

it now will display (not receive) 800Mhz band and 300Mhz band on the 440

side of the display in rotation (press the uhf switch to switch from band

to band)

It will now display (not recieve) the aircraft band (yes it does indicate

AM) on the 2 meter side of the rig. There is no AM detector presently but

I am working on it.

Cross band operation:

To enable cross band remote press (and hold) the funciton key and then (while

still holding the function key) press the vhf switch. Cross band operation

is now enabled using the displayed TX and RX frequencies. Splits still

function in cross band operation so don't link 2 repeters together! Frequency

selection for each band can be from the vfo, memory, or ARM (a cool Alinco

function).

To disable cross band operation simply press (and hold as before) the funciton

key and press the uhf switch. Note: failing to hold the f-key down and then

pressing uhf or vhf enables a strange function that I have yet to figure

out.

>2, The Autodialer (an option for the 590E according to page 13 of the manual)

>did not work as in the instructions. Another call to Alinco and I found

>that it is also an option in the 590T. On page 19 it was pointed out to

>me is a note to this effect. These instructions are also unclear. Anyway

>I went out and purchased the required DTMF unit and installed it. Now I

>can store the numbers in the autodialer's memories, however I cannot get

>the rig to autodial any number except the number stored in memory #1. I

>have tried every possible interpretation of the directions on page 13 of

>the manual and had no success. Another call to Alinco . . . they told me

>that they knew that the manual was written in jinglish (japanese/english)

>and was hard to understand. They said that they would send me a complete

>manual written by someone who spoke english as their primary language. I

>asked them why this manual was not provided with the rig and they said that

>it was free to anyone who asked for it ?!?!

Simple problem . . . a typeing error (translation error?).

Turn to page 13 of the instructions

find "Transmitting the Stored Autodialer Number:(DR-590E: Option)

Step 2 should read:

Enter DTMF pad code c14 and select the desired autodialer channel.

 

>3, This rig is supposedly able to receive DTMF codes from another transmitter

>What will allow remote control of the rig (useful as a very flexible cross

>band repeater). I have not been able to get this to function on my rig at

>all. I can only hope that possibly the modification they promised to send

>me will enable this function or that the new english directions will beable

>to explain how to make this happen.

Even the grand Alinco wizzard has not figured this out. He said that he

was working on better directions and that as soon as he had them he would

send them to me.

>4, The remote page/DTMF squelch function are completely cryptic I hope they

>are also explained in the english directions.

Same deal as above. However if you sat around with a friend who also had

a similarly equipped rig you could probabily figure it out.

>Anyone with any mods or operation instructions for this rig please let me

>know. Am I the only one with these problems? Does anyone have any solutions?



 

DR570T

MODS FOR OUT OF BAND ENABLE JUST PULL OFF THE TOP COVER, PLACE THE RADIO

WITH THE KNOBS FACING AWAY FROM YOU. LOCATETHE LOGIC BOARD BEHIND THE

FRONT PANEL. TOWARDS THE TOP MIDDLE OF LOGIC BOARD (IN THE UNSHEILDED AREA)

ARE THREE WHITE COLOR JUMPERS, THE ONE ON THE LEFT TILTS ABOUT 45 DEGREES .

YOU WANT TO CUT THE LAST JUMPER ON THE RIGHT (ABOUT MID-FRONT PANEL).

REPLACE THE COVER . TURN ON THE RADIO WITH THE FUNCTION KEY DEPRESSED.

THE RIG WILL KNOW HAVE TO BE RE-PROGRAMMED. FREQ. RANGE 130-170MHZ,

420-470MHZ, RX ONLY 335-385MHZ, 850-890MHZ



 

ALINCO DR510.1 MOD INFO

Subject: Alinco DR510 Crossband Repeater Mod

DR-510 - Vehicular Extender Modification

How to do it

1. Remove bottom cover

2. Remove 2 Phillips screws at corners of subtone board

(small board near center in front) and move the tone board out of

the way.

3. Solder an 16V electrolytic capacitor

(10MFD to 100MFD but best to use 40MFD to 50MFD) as follows:

A. Neg (-) lead to pin 8 on device (IC) labeled - M54959P

B. Pos (+) lead to pin 3, counting from left while facing front

of transceiver of the white 11 pin connector.

ANT Power cord

-----------------Rear----------------------------

l_l_l_l_l_l_l_l

l M54959P l

l_____________l (-)

l l l l l l l l------47uF+

/(+)

/

[][][][][][] [][][X][][][][][][][][]

------------------Front---------------------------

4. Remove top cover and faceplate of transceiver. Be careful of speaker wires!

A. To remove faceplate:

1. Remove main dial knob and retaining nut.

2. Remove mic. socket retaining ring.

3. GENTLY lift tabs, located approximately 3/4" in from each side,

on top of faceplate and "rotate" toward front of the transceiver.

4. When tabs are "free", turn transceiver over and repeat

the process. Remember - gently!

5. Set free plate aside.

 

5. Locate surface mount device labeled R-35 on control board

(front of transceiver).

A. R-35 is positioned between, and slightly below, the squelch and

high/low power button. To the left of device R-35 is a "circle" trace.

inside the "circle" trace are two solder pads, one of which is already

soldered to R-35.

6. Bridge the unsoldered pad to the soldered pad inside the "circle" trace.

7. Short R-35

----------------------Top---------------------------------

LCD (Vol) (Seq) [Power]

(ll)- + [Hi/low]

^ ^

l R-35

l

"circle" trace pads

----------------bottom------------------------------------

8. Replace faceplate, retaining nut, retaining ring, tone board,

bottom and top of transceiver.

Operation

1. Store different bands (2m or UHF) in VFO mode and Memory Channel 1-9.

Any thing you can store in memory 1-9, split, subtone enc,

subtone dec will work.

2. Store "DUAL" mode in VFO (Simplex) also it will accept subtone enc

and subtone dec.

3. Turn power off and then keep pressing the REV key, turn on the power

switch.

4. Audio Vol. control is your deviation control in repeater mode.

5. To return to normal operation turn off power then turn on again

without pressing any keys.

Notes:

The transceiver scans back and forth between the VFO and Memory until

it finds a signal then it locks on and transmits what it hears on the

other band. This scanning causes a slight delay when keying up as the

radio takes time to scan. I recommend the use of subtones when

possible so that the radio will not key up on noise and not allow

non-authorized personal to use your radio, the transmissions of which

YOU are responsible.



 

DR130T

From: N2QAT@WA2JVM.NJ.USA.NA

MARS/CAP MOD FOR DR130T FROM N2QAT

The mod for the Alinco DR130T is very simple, perhaps more

so than the other Alinco models. It is a five step

procedure:

 

1: Remove power and antenna.

2: Set radio on work surface facing you with the top

facing upward and then remove the top cover.

3: Locate and cut the blue jumper wire

4: Reassemble the radio.

5: Reset the microprocessor

(press and hold the 'Function' key and turn the radio

on)

Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ Ŀ

Ĵ

[TOP OF RADIO]

__

/ \

BLUE WIRE JUMPER > \ /

\/Ŀ

/^\

[FRONT OF RADIO]

TOLD YOU IT WAS SIMPLE.

DOMINICK, N2QAT 73'S



 

DR1200.1

ALINCO DR-1200 INTERMOD REDUCTION

CAUTION: THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE INVOLVES DESOLDERING SMD (SURFACE MOUNT

DEVICES). IF YOU ARE NOT QUALIFIED TO WORK ON SMD DEVICES OR

DO NOT HAVE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MOD! SEEK

PROFESSIONAL TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE. THE ORIGINATOR OF THIS

MODIFICATION IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSS INVOLVING THE

PERFORMANCE OF THIS MODIFICATION.

 

CAUTION: THIS RADIO EMPLOYS STATIC SENSITIVE DEVICES. SUITABLE MEANS SHOULD

BE EMPLOYED TO ASSURE A STATIC-FREE ENVIRONMENT PRIOR TO BEGINNING

WORK ON THIS RADIO.

1. REMOVE POWER AND ANTENNA FROM RIG

2. REMOVE BOTTOM COVER

3. LOCATE C-19, LEFT SIDE FRONT OF BOARD (CLEARLY LABELED, NEAR Q3).

4. REMOVE C-19: SUCK UP THE SOLDER AND CAREFULLY PRY AWAY

FROM BOARD WHILE STILL WARM.

5. SAVE THE CAPACITOR IN CASE YOU GOT THE WRONG PART!

6. REASSEMBLE THE RADIO, NO RETUNING NECESSARY.

This capacitor connects D1 (back to back diodes) to the first IF line.

D1 is supposed to be a "limiter". Unknown why Alinco chose to put in

such a limiter, as the integrated IF chip IC-1, an MC3357, has a built-

in limiter. Also, the Kenwood TM-231 which uses nearly the same layout and

circuit, doesn't have such a ciruit.

While the intermod hasn't gone away entirely (I'm not done with it yet!), it

has diminished enough to make the rig usable on packet AND voice now.

See also my mod to present constant-level audio to your TNC, regardless of

the DR-1200 volumn control setting!

73 de Bill, K0ZL@W0LJF.#NECO.CO.NOAM



DR1200.2

NOTES: Some TNCS have a low input impedance on the RX audio line. The KPC-1

is 10 ohms, the KPC-2 is 600 ohms, but the PK-232 is 10Kohms. The

lower impedance TNCS may "kill" the receive audio when you plug them

in. The cure is to remove the offending load resistor in the TNC!

If you do this, leave one end of the resistor connected for the next

owner to reinstall, if needed. If you run regular 8 ohm audio into a

TNC that has had the load resistor cut out, and don't have a speaker

connected also, you may damage your transceiver's audio output stage.

Caveats aside, the benefit is that now you can turn the audio all the

way down and still get good copy. And, you can turn it up to monitor

the channel without reaching around and fumblirn the audio all the

way down and still get good copy. And, you can turn it up to monitor

the channel without reaching around and fumbling with a speaker plug!

73 de BILL, Golden, CO

K0ZL@W0LJF.#NECO.CO.NOAM



DR1200

ALINCO DR-1200 CONSTANT TNC RX AUDIO MOD

Pin 6 on the DR-1200 is connected to the speaker audio lead inside the rig

to allow you to use a single cable to connect your TNC. The problem with

this is that you have to leave the audio level up a little for the TNC to

decode properly. Most people can only stand so much packet racket! Here's

a solution:

CAUTION: THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE INVOLVES DESOLDERING SMD (SURFACE MOUNT

DEVICES). IF YOU ARE NOT QUALIFIED TO WORK ON SMD DEVICES OR

DO NOT HAVE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MOD! SEEK

PROFESSIONAL TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE. THE ORIGINATOR OF THIS MESSAGE

IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSS, INVOLVING THE PERFORMANCE OF THIS

MODIFICATION.

CAUTION: THIS RADIO EMPLOYS STATIC SENSITIVE DEVICES. SUITABLE MEANS SHOULD

BE EMPLOYED TO ASSURE A STATIC-FREE ENVIRONMENT PRIOR TO BEGINNING

WORK ON THIS RADIO.

1. REMOVE POWER AND ANTENNA FROM THE DR-1200

2. REMOVE BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM COVERS

3. REMOVE VOL, SQ, AND VFO KNOBS

4. REMOVE VFO AND MIC PLUG NUTS. USE NEEDLE NOSE AS SPANNER, CAREFUL

NOT TO DAMAGE CONNECTOR THREADS.

4. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE FRONT PLASTIC COVER. SOME PRYING NECESSARY,

DON'T BREAK IT! THERE ARE FOUR TANGS TO GENTLY PRY LOOSE, TWO ON

THE TOP, TWO ON THE BOTTOM.

5. REMOVE THE THREE SMALL PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING THE CONTROL BOARD TO

THE CHASSIS. GENTLY SWING CONTROL BOARD UP TO EXPOSE THE BACK OF

THE BOARD.

6. LOCATE THE PINK WIRE CONNECTING PIN 6 OF THE MIC JACK ON THE CONTROL

UNIT TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE MAIN BOARD. DESOLDER THE PINK WIRE FROM

THE >MAIN< BOARD END AND RESOLDER THAT END OF THE PINK WIRE TO THE

"HOT" SIDE OF THE VOLUME CONTROL. IDENTIFY THE VOLUME CONTROL BY

LOOKING AT THE FRONT PANEL THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED. THE HOT SIDE IS

THE TERMINAL ON THE VOLUME CONTROL (THERE ARE THREE) THAT IS CLOSEST

TO THE CPU CHIP.

7. REASSEMBLE THE RADIO.

NOTES: Some TNCS have a low input impeHE TERMINAL ON THE VOLUME CONTROL (THERE ARE THREE) THAT IS CLOSEST

TO THE CPU CHIP.

7. REASSEMBLE THE RADIO.

 

CONTINUED IN DR1200.2



DR1200T.2

A Modification for the DR1200T to prevent lamp burnouts:

Part 1 of 4 Parts

From Jim, KD6QVO, Santa Clara, CA, and Lou, KE6EOI, Milpitas, CA.

 

My bad experience with my Alinco DR1200T data radio prompted me to

seek a better solution than just replacing lamps every year or sooner.

I posted an ALLUS bulletin on Alinco DR1200T lamp burnouts. Several

Hams reponded to me from over the U.S.A. expressing their similar

problems with Alinco radios having early lamp failures. So far, I

have even gotten a reply from a Kenwood owner too!

 

With the technical expertise of Lou, my DR1200T now has all lamps

replaced and an OFF/ON switch installed to control all lamps but the

Power LED. Here are the instructions as written by Lou for lamp

replacement info and how-to stuff.

Alinco shows 2 P/N's in the DR1200T svc. manual. BQ031-40608A used for

the 3 switches (these have a removable blue filter), and BQ031-40604A

the 2 to backlight the display. Only BQ031-40608A is available from

Alinco at $1.50 ea. plus shipping ($3.00), so you must remove the

filter for the display application. You need a total of 5 lamps for

the job, replace all 5 since the good ones will die soon. The lamps

from Alinco are T1 (1/8 dia x 1/4 long with 1 3/8 leads) and are

identical to Chicago miniature CM 8111 or JKL P/N 8111 with the

following ratings: 14V; 0.065A; 0.150 MSCP (intensity unit), and a

10,000 Hr life (actual is more like 5,000 Hr).

Continued in Part 2 of 4

 

CONT IN DR1200T.3



DR1200T.3

A Modification for the DR1200T to prevent lamp burnouts:

Part 2 of 4 Parts

From Jim, KD6QVO, Santa Clara, CA, and Lou, KE6EOI, Milpitas, CA.

 

Slightly above average soldering skills, a small soldering iron, small

dia. solder (0.015 dia.) and a solder sucker or solder wick is required

to replace these lamps. The pads are small and the traces are fine and

close. To access the lamps, remove the top and bottom panels, and the

front bezel, which is retained by 2 nuts at the mic. connector and

channel sw. Now remove the 3 screws holding the display PWA to the

chassis. DO NOT remove the display from the PWA. The 2 display lamps

are at either end of the display. Use the tubing on the old lamp leads

to keep the new leads seperated if they short good by small traces! The

solder sucker is needed to clean out the small holes for the switch

lights. Don't forget replace all 5 lamps!

 

To add a switch in this lamp power line requires advanced soldering

skills, a push on push off switch - mfr. C & K p/n 8161 SHZ (standard

configuration with a 1/4-28 mounting bushing), and a small xacto knife,

and about 1 ft of 26 or smaller AWG stranded wire, ribbon cable works

great. Total rework time is approx. 1 1/2 hr.

Continued in Part 3 of 4

CONTINUED IN DR1200T.4

 



DR1200T.4

A Modification for the DR1200T to prevent lamp burnouts:

Part 3 of 4 Parts

From Jim, KD6QVO, Santa Clara, CA, and Lou, KE6EOI, Milpitas, CA.

1. Center a 1/4 inch switch mtg. hole on the side of the chassis adjacent

to the channel selector switch approx 3/8 inch above center.

2. Remove the display from the PWA. Before it is reassembled the rubber

connector must be removed and flattened by pressing on it with your

thumb to increase its length slightly to insure good contact to the

PWA.

3. Locate the solder tabs for the display lamp near the volume control,

there is a VIA about 3/8 inch from the bottom tab.

4. Solder a 6 inch wire into this VIA so it exits on the side of the PWA

opposite the display. Run the other end to the new switch.

5. Now for the tricky part! This trace runs from this VIA under the

volume control to a connector marked CN202, pin 12. It's near the

power on/off switch and LED. Cut this trace with the xacto knife,

anywhere from this VIA and pin 12. The point I picked was

approximately 3/8 inch from the VIA right below the edge of the

metal housing for the display, right before it goes under the volume

control. Watch out for the trace just below it.

6. Connect another wire from the other side of the switch to the bottom

side of the connector CN202 pin 12.

7. Test for a clean break of the trace (do not add the display to the

PWA yet) by connecting the radio to a supply and turn on, lights

should go out when the button is pressed. If the switch does not

control them inspect for a clean cut.

Continued in Part 4 of 4

CONTINUED IN DR1200T.5



DR1200T.5

A Modification for the DR1200T to prevent lamp burnouts:

Part 4 of 4 Parts

From Jim, KD6QVO, Santa Clara, CA, and Lou, KE6EOI, Milpitas, CA.

8. Checking the display contacts. Reinstall the display (do not screw

to the chassis yet) and power up the radio again. Rotate the

frequency knob to insure all the display segments work. If there is

a problem, try bending the tabs so they apply more force on the

rubber connector. Last resort is to remove the display again, and

stretch the rubber connector once more.

9. Now you are home free! Install the switch, notch the case and

reassemble.

After performing this delicate operation, and reviewing the lamp specs.

a simpler alternative to the switch would be to use 18V lamps. Here are

two equations that predict lamp life and intensity VS operating voltage:

Life multiplier = rated volt divided by applied volts to the 12th power.

Intensity = applied volt divided by rated volts to the 3.5 power. From

this equation 18v will give 20x life at a 41 percent reduction in

intensity. 12.5v operation with 14v lamps = 3x life increase, but

reduces the transmitter power 10 percent. I operated the 14V lamps at

11V to simulate 18V lamps at 13.5v and found the intensity satisfactory.

The P/N for 18V lamps is Chicago Miniature CM 7220 or JKL 7220. They

should be available from a local electronic distributors or mail order

distributors such as Allied in Fort Worth 1-800-433-5700 or Newark in

Chicago 1-312-784-5100. I doubt it if radio shack will stock them.

We hope the above information will help you. Address any comments or

suggestions to me, Jim, KD6QVO.

 



DR1200T.6

 

From Jim, KD6QVO and Lou, KE6EOI

 

My bad experience with my Alinco DR1200T data radio prompted me to

seek a better solution than just replacing lamps every year or sooner.

I posted an ALLUS bulletin on Alinco DR1200T lamp burnouts.

 

With the technical expertise of Lou, my DR1200T now has all lamps

replaced and an OFF/ON switch installed to control all lamps but the

Power LED. Here are the instructions as written by Lou for lamp

replacement info and how-to stuff.

 

Alinco shows 2 P/N's in the DR1200T svc. manual. BQ031-40608A used for

the 3 switches (these have a removable blue filter), and BQ031-40604A

the 2 to backlight the display. Only BQ031-40608A is available from

Alinco at $1.50 ea. plus shipping ($3.00), so you must remove the

filter for the display application. You need a total of 5 lamps for

the job, replace all 5 since the good ones will die soon. The lamps

from Alinco are T1 (1/8 dia x 1/4 long with 1 3/8 leads) and are

identical to Chicago miniature CM 8111 or JKL P/N 8111 with the

following ratings: 14V; 0.065A; 0.150 MSCP (intensity unit), and a

10,000 Hr life (actual is more like 5,000 Hr).

 

Slightly above average soldering skills, a small soldering iron, small

dia. solder (0.015 dia.) and a solder sucker or solder wick is required

to replace these lamps. The pads are small and the traces are fine and

close. To access the lamps, remove the top and bottom panels, and the

front bezel, which is retained by 2 nuts at the mic. connector and

channel sw. Now remove the 3 screws holding the display PWA to the

chassis. DO NOT remove the display from the PWA. The 2 display lamps

are at either end of the display. Use the tubing on the old lamp leads

to keep the new leads seperated if they short good by small traces! The

solder sucker is needed to clean out the small holes for the switch

lights. Don't forget replace all 5 lamps!

 

To add a switch in this lamp power line requires advanced soldering

skills, a push on push off switch - mfr. C & K p/n 8161 SHZ (standard

configuration with a 1/4-28 mounting bushing), and a small xacto knife,

and about 1 ft of 26 or smaller AWG stranded wire, ribbon cable works

great. Total rework time is approx. 1 1/2 hr.

 

1. Center a 1/4 inch switch mtg. hole on the side of the chassis adjacent

to the channel selector switch approx 3/8 inch above center.

2. Remove the display from the PWA. Before it is reassembled the rubber

connector must be removed and flattened by pressing on it with your

thumb to increase its length slightly to insure good contact to the

PWA.

CONTINUED IN DR1200T.7

 



DR1200T.7

3. Locate the solder tabs for the display lamp near the volume control,

there is a VIA about 3/8 inch from the bottom tab.

4. Solder a 6 inch wire into this VIA so it exits on the side of the PWA

opposite the display. Run the other end to the new switch.

5. Now for the tricky part! This trace runs from this VIA under the

volume control to a connector marked CN202, pin 12. It's near the

power on/off switch and LED. Cut this trace with the xacto knife,

anywhere from this VIA and pin 12. The point I picked was

approximately 3/8 inch from the VIA right below the edge of the

metal housing for the display, right before it goes under the volume

control. Watch out for the trace just below it.

6. Connect another wire from the other side of the switch to the bottom

side of the connector CN202 pin 12.

7. Test for a clean break of the trace (do not add the display to the

PWA yet) by connecting the radio to a supply and turn on, lights

should go out when the button is pressed. If the switch does not

control them inspect for a clean cut.

8. Checking the display contacts. Reinstall the display (do not screw

to the chassis yet) and power up the radio again. Rotate the

frequency knob to insure all the display segments work. If there is

a problem, try bending the tabs so they apply more force on the

rubber connector. Last resort is to remove the display again, and

stretch the rubber connector once more.

9. Now you are home free! Install the switch, notch the case and

reassemble.

 

After performing this delicate operation, and reviewing the lamp specs.

a simpler alternative to the switch would be to use 18V lamps. Here are

two equations that predict lamp life and intensity VS operating voltage:

Life multiplier = rated volt divided by applied volts to the 12th power.

Intensity = applied volt divided by rated volts to the 3.5 power. From

this equation 18v will give 20x life at a 41 percent reduction in

intensity. 12.5v operation with 14v lamps = 3x life increase, but

reduces the transmitter power 10 percent. I operated the 14V lamps at

11V to simulate 18V lamps at 13.5v and found the intensity satisfactory.

The P/N for 18V lamps is Chicago Miniature CM 7220 or JKL 7220. They

should be available from a local electronic distributors or mail order

distributors such as Allied in Fort Worth 1-800-433-5700 or Newark in

Chicago 1-312-784-5100. I doubt it if radio shack will stock them.

 

We hope the above information will help you. Address any comments or

suggestions to me, Jim, KD6QVO.

 



 

DT112T

Date: 21 Oct 90 03:46:57 UTC (Sun)

From: wa2ise@kd6th.nj.usa.na (Bob)

Message-ID: <39294@KD6TH.NJ.USA.NA>

Reply-To: wa2ise@wa2ise

To: mods@allbbs

Subject: DR112t mod file

 

copied from UUCP and edited:

Keywords: Alinco DR110T DR112T

This is just to confirm that the modification that was posted to the

Alinco DR110T also works on the DR112T (same radio, but with an LCD

display as opposed to the DR110T's LED display). Pop the cover, cut

one wire, reset the radio, and PRESTO! Instant expanded coverage.

I verified that the radio will receive the National Weather Service.

However, I haven't tried listening to the 300 MHz or 800 MHz segments

the radio now covers. I have no idea how well (or how poorly) the

receiver performs at those frequencies.

Andre Molyneux KA7WVV

for reference, here is the DR110 mod file:

After installing the out-of-band receive mod on my Alinco 110, I

accidentally pressed a couple of keys and found I could receive

from:

130 -> 170 MHz + Xmit of this range

340 -> 380 MHz - no Xmit

870 -> 890 MHz - no Xmit

To modify the Alinco to receive out of band, perform the

following steps:

Remove the top cover by removing the obvious screws. Be careful,

as the speaker may stick to the cushion on the top cover. If it

does, separate the speaker from the top panel and replace it back

in its receptacle within the rig.

Positioned at the front of the rig, look near the tuning knob and

you will see a little yellow jumper coming from behind the front

panel, looping around and returning to the front panel. This

jumper looks like it should have a tag on it saying 'cut me for

more features'. Go ahead and take the wire cutters to this jumper.

Be careful that the cut ends don't short to something!

Replace the top cover on the rig, get everything set back up and

turn on the rig.

The next step is to reset the radio. If you don't remember its

current programming, you may want to write it down at this time.

When ready to reset the rig, hold down the F key and the VFO/M

key at the same time, turn the POWER off, back on, and then let

go of the keys. The rig is reset and will display 144.00.

You will now be able to tune around, and transmit, from 130.00 ->

169.99 MHz.

To move to the next 'band segment', press F and then the MHZ key.

The display will go the 340.00 MHz segment. F+MHZ again will get

you cellular, and F+MHZ a third time will return you to the 2

meter segment. Happy monitoring...



 

ALINCO DR-110T MOD INFO

remove the top cover.

find the yellow wire at the front left corner (next to the tuning knob)

it makes a loop about 1 1/2 inches long.

clip the wire in two and insulate.

replace top cover.

reset the radio as per the manual. ( i.e. hold f and vfo/m button down

while turning the radio on.

to change bands, press funtion followed by mhz button.

rig will change bands each time you do so.

this should allow reception from 130 - 169.995 mhz

the rig will also transmit from 103 - 169.995 mhz

 

JUST WANTED TO LET YOU KNOW ABOUT SOMETHING THAT THE MOD DOES,

THAT I DIDN'T KNOW AT FIRST....

130-170 RECEIVE AND XMIT

340-380 RECEIVE ONLY

870-890 RECEIVE ONLY

AFTER YOU MAKE THE MOD ON THE YELLOW WIRE, YOU RESET THE RIG AS PER

THE MOD. THEN TO GO FROM 130-170 TO 340-380, YOU HIT THE F AND MHZ

KEY. TO GO FROM 340-380, TO THE CELLULAR 870-890, YOU HIT THE F AND

MHZ KEY AGAIN. TO GO FROM 870-890 BACK TO 130-170, YOU HIT THE F AND

MHZ AGAIN.

 

ALINCO DR110D 45w 2m mobile. Remove top cover. Cut YELLOW wire which loops

from left top corner of unit (just behind tuning knob) across the top of the

radio. It is the only wire which is a complete 2" or so loop. While holding

down the "F" and MHz" keys, power down the radio. While still holding them

down, power up the radio. It is now set for "out of bounds" reception.

 

DJG1

Original from WB1ERG to KJ6FY@KJ6FY.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA

To expand the rx on the Alinco DJ-G1 HT , Take the 5 screws off the back

cover slowly pull the cover away , make sure you do not pull quickly

because there is a ribbon cable attached... Once you have the cover

opened up , look for the Micro processer and the 2 loped RED and BLUE

wires , you cant miss them like all Alinco HT's..

Cut the RED wire and reset the microprocesser and you have expanded

your RX on 2 meters to 108 to 174 and on 440 you have expanded

it to 400 to 500 , I would think the Blue wire would expand the TX also

but i have not done this mode so am not sure but all Alinco HT's

when you cut the Blue wire you extnd the TX...

very Nice HT , injoy..

Steve -- WB1ERG

 

 

... Steve

-------------------------------------------------------------

- Sams Callbook Database -- Ham Radio Mods -

- ================================================= -

- 145.050 -

-------------------------------------------------------------



 

ALINCO DJ560T

Subject: Mods for Alinco DJ560 Dual band portable

The following modification to the Alinco DJ-560-T will enable it to xmit

out of band. Rumor: may also enable cross-band repeat.

 

1. Turn power off.

2. Remove battery.

3. Unscrew stainless steel battery connector plate. This is the rectangular

s/s plate found at the bottom of the unit and is held in place with (4)

small chromed, phillips head screws.

4. Remove Antenna.

5. Unscrew the one black head, phillips head screw found immediately adjacent

to the BNC.

6. Carefully remove the grey DIAL, UHF and VHF plastic knobs.

7. Unscrew the lock ring nuts that are found under each of the three sets

of knobs.

8. Gently remove the plastic top cover on the unit.

9. Unscrew the (4) black head phillips screws that hold the body halves

together.

10. Place the unit face down on a work surface that is covered with a towel

or a similar soft cloth. This will protect the unit from being marred

while you work on it.

11. Gently separate the two body halves about 1/2" to 3/4".

12. Cut the ORANGE wire loop and reseal the exposed ends with heat shrink

tubing.

(NOTE: if your DJ-560T is serial numbered from #0636-0705, the loop will

be YELLOW in color! However whichever the color, cut only the

loop! It will be the only loop to be found!)

13. Reassemble the unit in the reverse order of the above instructions.

14. Reset the CPU by holding the 'F' key (above the PTT key) down and turning

on the unit.

 

This mod was supplied by a major amateur radio dealer. Several have tried it

and it works. One caution: The black screws that hold the back on are *real*

cheeeep. Use a screw driver of exactly the right size or you're likely to

strip the heads.

==============================================================================

Note: I haven't tried or verified this, proceed at your own risk! WA2ISE

And do not transmit outside of legal bands! Don't do this mod unless

you have a *legal* and good reason. Like driving a transverter, or if

you're a Mars member.



 

ALINCO DJ500T MODS

Subject: dj-500t mod file.

 

THIS MOD IS FOR THE ALINCO DJ-500T,

IF YOU HAVE LITTLE OR NO SOLDERING EXPERIENCE DO NOT !!!

REPEAT DO NOT TRY THIS MOD ON YOUR RADIO.

IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE A CHIP RESISTOR FROM THE CPU BOARD.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED: # 0 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

25 WATT SOLDERING PENCIL,

EXACTO KNIFE.

I RECEIVED A SCHEMATIC AND BOARD LAYOUT FROM ALINCO FREE.

PHONE 1-213-618-8616. OR SEND A SASE TO ME AT :

BRYAN TODD

318 ALDRICH ROAD

HOWELL, NJ 07731

AND I WILL SEND YOU A COPY OF THE BOARD LAYOUT.

1. REMOVE THE BATTERY PACK

2. REMOVE 3 SCREWS FROM THE BACK OF THE RADIO

3. REMOVE 2 SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM (FRONT PANEL SIDE)

4. SPLIT THE CASE CAREFULLY.

5. PUT THE RADIO FACE DOWN ON THE TABLE WITH THE TOP AWAY FROM YOU.

THE SPEAKER AT THE BOTTOM.

6. FIND THE "D" SHAPED GOLD PADS UNDER THE SPEAKER ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF BOARD.

7. THE CHIP RESISTOR IS TWO PADS UP FROM THE "D" SHAPED ONES.

THE NEXT STEPS CAN CAUSE GREAT ILLNESS TO THE RADIO !!!!!

8. VERY CAREFULLY HEAT ONE END OF THE CHIP AND PRY WITH KNIFE.

9. THEN HEAT THE OTHER END AND REPEAT UNTIL RESISTOR IS OFF THE BOARD.

10. HOLD THE BATTERY PACK IN CONTACT WITH BOTTOM OF RADIO, TURN ON RADIO,

PRESS THE RESET BUTTON WITH TOOTHPICK (HOLE UNDER PTT SWITCH).

11. CHECK THAT YOU HAVE THE NEW FREQUENCIES THEN REASSEMBLE THE RADIO.

YOU CAN NOW PROGRAM 130.00 MHz TO 169.995 MHz

340.00 MHZ TO 379.995 MHz

420.00 MHz TO 469.995 MHz

870.00 MHz TO 899.995 MHz

WARNING !!!!!!! TRANSMITTING OUT OF THE HAM BANDS IS ILLEGAL !!!!!!!

***************************************************

SINCE YOU HAVE THE SOLDERING IRON HOT YOU CAN BUILD A NICE ACCESSORY.

REMOTE MICROPHONE AND SPEAKER.

TO MAKE A CABLE YOU HAVE TO BUY:

1/8" STEREO PLUG "RS #274-284"

1/8" TO 3/32" STEREO ADAPTER "RS # 274-373"

10 K OHM 1/4 WATT RESISTOR "RS # 271-1335"

10 MICROFARAD 35 VOLT CAP "RS # 272-1013"

MATE PLUG FOR YOUR SPARE MICROPHONE.

PLASTIC MINI BOX.

I MADE ONE WITH A 8 PIN STANDARD MIC PLUG SO I CAN USE MY SPARE HAND MIC

IN THE CAR WITH A 6" SPEAKER.

SPEAKER MIC CONNECTIONS:

SHELL GROUND

TIP REC AUDIO

RING PTT & AUDIO IN.

CONNECT SHIELD, PTT COMMON AND SPEAKER COMMON TO THE SHELL.

CONNECT SPEAKER PLUS TO THE TIP.

CONNECT A 10K OHM RESISTOR AND 10 MICROFARAD CAP TO THE RING.

CONNECT THE PTT SWITCH BETWEEN THE SHELL AND THE 10K RESISTOR.

CONNECT THE MIC PLUS TO THE 10 MICROFARAD CAP.

NOW YOU CAN USE A REAL SPEAKER AND REAL MICROPHONE.

THAT WILL ALSO WORK FOR PACKET BUT USE A .1 MICROFARAD CAP NOT 10 MF....

|_____| SHELL

| |

WELL THATS ALL FOLKS......... | | RING

V TIP