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Finishing and extras
Intro

Epoxy is not resistant to sunlight. So a few coats of varnish or paint are necessary to protect it against UV light. Use a good varnish with UV filters.

Nearing the end of the project, and with the water in sight, I started worrying about paddles. After all the work on the boat itself, buying a a set of paddles seemed unforgivable.

I also added a loop at each ends of the kayak.

Photos

     
First sanding with 80 grain, then 100, then 120, etc., till the desired termination is obtained. I sanded with water to reduce dust. Use dust mask!

The power sander wasn't the same after the construction. In the midst of a session, a loud noise indicated a completely dried out bearing.
     
The surface doesn't shine after sanding, but the varnish will make it transparent again.

Wetting the sanded surface simulates the effect. Of course you can simply paint the boat, but the wood termination is too nice to hide!
     
The paddles are yet another example of improvisation. Opinions and photos abound on the 'net, I estimate one design per user. I designed a paddle which seems a compromise between a lot of conflicting requirements.

The surface is 650 cm2, and the angle (feather) is 60 degrees.
     
The shaft was made sandwiching 3 layers of pinewood. The center layer is drilled with largish holes to reduce weight. Later I made a second version using timbo wood - much lighter!

The back side. All improvisation, but I'm not unhappy with the result!
     
High density foam was used to make a temporary seat. I really should spend time to make a new one.

I drilled a hole in the bow and stern, and glued in a drilled, 25 mm diameter piece of wood. Painted completely with epoxy.


(c) John Coppens ON6JC/LW3HAZ mail