Epoxy is not resistant to sunlight. So a few coats of varnish or paint
are necessary to protect it against UV light. Use a good varnish with
UV filters.
Nearing the end of the project, and with the water in sight, I started
worrying about paddles. After all the work on the boat itself, buying a
a set of paddles seemed unforgivable.
I also added a loop at each ends of the kayak.
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First sanding with 80 grain, then 100, then 120, etc., till the desired termination is obtained. I sanded with water to reduce dust. Use dust mask!
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The power sander wasn't the same after the construction. In the midst of a session, a loud noise indicated a completely dried out bearing.
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The surface doesn't shine after sanding, but the varnish will make it transparent again.
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Wetting the sanded surface simulates the effect. Of course you can simply paint the boat, but the wood termination is too nice to hide!
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The paddles are yet another example of improvisation. Opinions and photos abound on the 'net, I estimate one design per user. I designed a paddle which seems a compromise between a lot of conflicting requirements.
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The surface is 650 cm2, and the angle (feather) is 60 degrees.
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The shaft was made sandwiching 3 layers of pinewood. The center layer is drilled with largish holes to reduce weight. Later I made a second version using timbo wood - much lighter!
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The back side. All improvisation, but I'm not unhappy with the result!
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High density foam was used to make a temporary seat. I really should spend time to make a new one.
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I drilled a hole in the bow and stern, and glued in a drilled, 25 mm diameter piece of wood. Painted completely with epoxy.
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(c) John Coppens ON6JC/LW3HAZ |
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