Anderson PowerPole Connectors Sooner or later, questions arise about Anderson PowerPole connectors: What are they? How do you use them? Where can I get them? How do I install them? Do I have to have one of those expensive crimping tools? What if I ruin a metal contact? 1. What are they? Anderson PowerPoles have become the standard 12-volt DC connector for many ARES teams. They make changing equipment such as transceivers and power supplies simple. There is no winding wires around power terminals, or having the wrong size ring or fork terminal to fit the power supply terminals. Unplug one radio, plug another in. The job is done. If the plastic housings are configured correctly (see below), there is no danger of "letting the fire out of a rig" by connecting it to the wrong polarity of the power supply terminals. The PowerPoles simply won't fit together if they are not matched correctly. 2. How do you use them? The most common use is for power transfer from batteries or DC power supplies to radios. However, let your imagination run free. Just remember than the connectors are NOT weatherproof, so be careful when using them outside. If they must be used outside in damp weather, for example, make sure they are wrapped tightly with plastic, etc. I use then to hook ground mounted solar panels together and run #10 wires to the charge controller in our travel trailer. From the charge controller, the current is run to the batteries through another pair of #10 wires and a pair of Anderson Power Poles at the batteries. 3. Where can I get them? Several companies now carry Anderson PowerPoles in their inventory. Run a search on the Internet. One dealer I've used with good success is at http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/. 4. How do I install them? Although they come in several sizes, the housing that accommodates 15, 30 and 45 amp contacts is the one most used in the hobby. The 30 Amp size along with 12 gauge red/black zip-cord seems to be the best overall choice for most applications and numerous other groups have adopted it.  15 Amp contacts accommodate 16 AWG or smaller wire.  30 Amp contacts accommodate 16 to 12 AWG wire. 45 Amp contacts accommodate 14 to 10 AWG wire. Wire size (AWG) 20 18 16 14 12 10 Current Capacity (amps) 5 8 12 18 24 40 All contacts have a round hole into which the wire is inserted EXCEPT for the 45-amp contacts used for up to #10 wire. It is a "U" that must be rounded over the wire. Yeah, I know, that's DUMB... but that's how they are made. Eventually you will get used to this arrangement and will be able to make the crimp over #10 wire without too much difficulty. I prefer to use red and black "zip cord" for all of my 12-volt DC power connections. The price varies widely from dealer to dealer, so check around on the Internet for the best price you can find. For runs of more than 15 feet, use the largest wire size you can, and make sure it has a safe current handing capability of MORE than you need. For #8 wire, use 75-amp PowerPole connectors. These are much larger than the standard 30/45-amp connectors, and much more costly as well. However, if voltage drop is an issue, you may want to consider using larger wires and PowerPoles to bring power to where you need it, then make a jumper which goes from the 75-amp PowerPole connector to a 30/45- amp PowerPole at your rig. A 15-, 30-, or 45-amp Powerpole connector pin will actually withstand well over 100 amps without damage and close to 200 amps before actually causing permanent damage. The voltage drop of a Powerpole 30-amp connector is approximately .016 volts at 37 amps. Powerpoles should be installed at the power cord where the cord fastens to the power source. The fuses in both legs of the power cord should be retained. Powerpoles should be assembled in the following manner: Cut the wires the same length. Remove enough of the insulation from the wire so that it will fit into the metal tongue without having excess bare wire hanging out the back. The round hole where the wire goes into the contact has a seam. Put this seam towards the ROUNDED side of the crimper's dye and crimp the contact. Once you have made the crimp, there are two problems that may keep the contact from going into the housing. The most common problem is that the contact is too wide in the area where it has clamped onto the wire. The available gap is measured in thousandths of an inch! Alternately round and crimp the contact using the front and back dies of the crimper until it is a uniform width along the entire contact, yet firmly holds the wire. The tongue of the contact MUST be completely straight to go into the housing. They sometimes get bent downward by the crimper. Just lay it on something flat and gently bend it back into position. Slide the contacts into the housings until they "click". 15/45 amp Modular Housing Red = + Black = - Housings should be mated per the diagram above, viewed from the contact side (opposite the wire side), tongue down, hood up, RED on the LEFT, BLACK on the RIGHT. Viewed from the top, the red housing is on the RIGHT side, and the black housing is on the LEFT. Slide them into place. The use of a roll pin shown to lock housings together is usually not recommended. They sometimes have a tendency to fall out with use. Use a small amount of super glue in the hole if you need it. I've seldom had a problem with my housings moving about, but they are not in heavy use. Occasionally, under special circumstances, you may want to make a special connector that will not mate with PowerPoles configured in the normal way. This is easily accomplished, as the housings will stack vertically, as well as horizontally. Do not use odd-ball configurations on wires that will be used with power supplies or batteries! 5. Do I have to have one of those expensive crimping tools? Not usually, but it will depend on the size of wiring you are using. A simple crimping tool such as this one from Powerwerx can be used on #10 and smaller wire, and these are usually available wherever PowerPoles are sold. They should cost around $10.00-$15.00. You may also find something similar at your local hardware. If you are attempting to put #10 wire into the 75-amp connectors, however, you will need a heavy-duty racheting crimper designed for the job. Again, look around. Some companies want $39.95 for this tool that is advertised to crimp the 75-amp connectors (It does the smaller sizes too.), but you may be able to catch it on special for much less. 6. What if I ruin the metal contact? Don't dispair. I've never ruined one, but if you happen to do that, additional contacts can be purchased separately, as can the housings.