From philabs!prls!pyramid!decwrl!labrea!rutgers!ucsd!brian Fri Apr 21 13:22:27 EDT 1989 Article 11261 of rec.ham-radio: Path: philabs!prls!pyramid!decwrl!labrea!rutgers!ucsd!brian >From: brian@ucsd.EDU (Brian Kantor) Newsgroups: rec.ham-radio Subject: Drilling Antenna Holes Message-ID: <1644@ucsd.EDU> Date: 20 Apr 89 14:28:10 GMT Organization: The Avant-Garde of the Now, Ltd. Lines: 95 A long time ago, in my misspent youth, I worked as a commercial two-way radio technician. As the youngest employee, I got to do most of the installations. It was good experience; after a while it got to the point where I could install a complete trunk-mount mobile phone in under an hour. The trick to good antenna performance in a car is to put it on a good groundplane, as high and as central as possible - like in the middle of the roof. In Detroit iron, this is often easy to do, but foreign cars (such as my RX-7) it's not so easy. Scout out your car: is there a dome light fixture underneath a good roof spot for the antenna? If so, you've got it made: the manufacturer has already run cable channels and you can drill into the roof without having to fiddle with the headliner cloth. Just remove the dome light assembly, drill the hole, and fish the coax. Should take about 1/2 hour even if you've never done it before. Drill UP from INSIDE, first with a 1/8" drill, then with a 3/8". If your antenna needs a larger hole (like 5/8"), use a chassis punch, antenna drill, or a tapered reamer. To fish the cable, use a piece of #14 house wire or something like that; it's stiff enough to shove down channels and doorposts, and strong enough that you can use it to pull the coax back up. Take off all the decorative covers, kickplates, etc., and follow the route the car manufacturer used to run his wiring. There's almost always enough space left to fish at least one piece of RG58 through there. If you're using foamcore cable, be sure it won't be pinched. It's a good idea to bend the end of the fishwire over into a blunt end if you're fishing past cloth that will tear. Wrap a little tape over the bent end so that it doesn't act like a hook and snag on something. If your car doesn't have a dome light in the center of the roof, then check the headliner. If it's stretched cloth that isn't glued to the underside of the roof, then you're still ok. Peel away the moulding at the edge above the door, and carefully peel the headliner cloth off the glue where it's stuck to the doorframe. Fish the coax from the radio location to the top of the door before you finalize the antenna location, since some manufacturers don't leave cable channels you can use. Remember that you can always tuck the cable behind the moulding or inside window gaskets if you have to. To drill the roof in a car with a stretched headliner, first take a couple of safety pins and hook them into the cloth below where you're going to drill. Hang some fishing weights or a small child from them to pull the headliner away from the roof. Prepare your drill: stick a piece of aquarium tubing over the 1/8" bit and tape it in place so that when the drill breaks through, only about 1/4" can penetrate. Do the same with the 3/8" (a piece of garden hose works well here). Find the center of the roof by snapping a chalk line or running a piece of string from the center of the hood (usually the interior rearview mirror is in the center) to the center of the back window. Put a coke bottle or the antenna in place and walk around the car a couple of times until you are convinced that it's in the middle and people won't laugh at you later. Centerpunch the hole and drill, first with the 1/8" then the 3/8". Again, enlarge the hole with a tapered reamer if you need to. Now, from the top of roof, push your fish wire down and to the side where you left the coax hanging at the roofline, and pull it back up through the hole and attach it to the mount. If you have one of those mounts that comes with the coax already soldered to it, you just use more fishwire, then pull the coax back along the path the fishwire took. To find electrical power for your radio, you can best get it from one of the heavy wires on the back of the ignition or headlight switch, or on the relay panel if your car is modern enough to use them. If your radio doesn't need continuous power, use the "accessory" terminal so that you don't have to remember to turn it off every time you get out of the car. If you don't smoke, a real good place is the wire to the cigarette lighter. Find a good ground (like a self-tapping screw and star lockwasher into the body sheetmetal). Power amplifier wiring is high current stuff, and should probably go to the battery or the starter motor terminal. If you use the battery connection, shoot it with a couple of coats of clear Krylon paint after it's back together to minimize corrosion. Almost every rice-rocket on the market needs an external speaker to sound good. Put it where it can sorta face the driver, but don't put it where it's in the way, and DON'T put it on the doorpost where it will slice up your face when you crash. You probably aren't installing a trunkmount radio, so I don't need to remind you not to drill into the top of the gas tank, do i? Remember, for mounting radios, big self-tapping sheetmetal screws are your friends. Use lockwashers on EVERYTHING - it's hard to control a car when a 15 pound radio just fell off the dashboard onto your right foot on the freeway in the #1 lane at 75 MPH. Have fun! - Brian