The (In)Complete Guide to the Yaesu FT-50 Version 1.3 Compiled by Bill Childers, KE6VVW Disclaimer & Other Nonsense The information in this document is a guide to the FT-50 ONLY. Having had more than a few radios in my amateur experience, I understand how most hams wish to learn as much about their rigs as possible. I have compiled this guide to allow other people to learn more about the radio without having to search all over for information. I do not guarantee the validity of this information, as Yaesu may change programming or hardware so that some of the techniques in this document may cease to function. I am not responsible if these instructions damage your rig in some way. All I can say is that I have performed the following procedures to my unit, and I am quite pleased with the results. Your mileage may vary, etc. History Version 1.0 1st introduced. Version 1.1 Added: Game mode, Changed High Power Mod to "Internal System Alignment". In this section I also detail the squelch and S-meter adjustments. Also added info to the bug on the FTT-12 Keypad. Version 1.2 Added: Bob Gudgel's Hardware Jumper Descriptions. Version 1.3 Added: Information on Changed CPUs in the FT-50 (Mods no longer work) Version 1.4 Added: Info on completed mod in newer FT-50s (Courtesy of Alan Judd, N6VUD.) Introduction The Yaesu FT-50 is perhaps the most unique VHF/UHF Handheld manufactured today. It's made to MIL-SPEC 810, for dust, splashproofness, and vibration. Out of the box, it has not only dual band 2m/440 capability, but wide FM receive and AM receive as well. In addition, it receives 76-200 MHz, 380-500 MHz, and 700-900 MHz (Cellular Blocked). It has one of the fastest scan speeds for an amateur HT. It also has the unique ability (w/ ADMS-1C software) to interface with an IBM PC running Windows and have memories and settings uploaded/downloaded. In addition, it has DCS (digital coded squelch), ARTS (auto-ranging transpond system), and Yaesu's excellent transmit and receive battery saver features. It also uses Yaesu's extremely efficent FET power module that allows for 5W+ of output power with a 9.6V battery pack. With the optional FTT-12 keypad, the unit also performs CTCSS decode, DTMF paging, and also incorporates a Digital Voice Recorder! All of this functionality in such a small package makes it my rig of choice. Problems (Bugs) Unfortunately, the FT-50 is plagued by a few bugs. None of them are very serious or life-threatening, just a bit annoying. First among them is its Wide-FM receive. Apparently Yaesu engineers didn't put a wide enough filter in the unit, and some of the bandwidth of broadcast FM signals gets "chopped off". This means that the rig is near useless for listening to music on the broadcast FM band. It works marginally with voice only on the same band. My opinion on this problem: If you want to listen to music, bring a small Walkman or other transistor radio with you. The '50 does an adequate job of bringing voice signals in on broadcast FM, so it's good for listening to emergency broadcasts. The second "bug" lies in the optional FTT-12 keypad. The manual for the radio states that you can set up a "voice mail" type of functionality that lets your radio operate unattended and record calls for you. This mode doesn't work correctly, although the built-in voice recorder works great. It seems that the unit will playback the wrong voice partition. The problem appears to be in the DTMF page-answer-back area. If you're buying the '50 and FTT-12 solely for this purpose, DON'T! It doesn't work and there's no current workaround. The third bug has been complained about a bit. It seems that some '50s suffer from a low Tx audio problem. This is due to a factory adjustment that is set a bit on the low side. It is easily fixed. (See Factory Adjustments below). The fourth "bug" is synergistic with the ADMS-1C software. If there is some kind of problem in downloading a file to the radio, the software aborts with an error, and the rig is left with it's memories cleared in a "limbo" state. This state is actually the European band plan, and if done properly, the rig can be modified to receive even more frequencies... which will be described later. (See modification section) However, if you want to return the rig to its natural state, simply download a blank frequency file (NONAME.RDF) to the unit. All should be well. Updates to CPU Yaesu has updated the CPU in radios of lot number 06 and higher. The lot number is found encoded in the serial number. The lot number is the 3rd and 4th digit of the serial number. The updated CPU models can't perform the "Super-Hyper" mod described below. Factory adjustments If your rig suffers from the low Tx audio problem, here's how to fix it. 1. Remove the battery and antenna. 2. Remove the "NiCd" sticker on the heat sink. If you remove it very carefully, it's possible to re-install it later with the same stickum that's on it. 3. Look in the cavity where you removed the sticker. Proceeding from left to right, here's what you'll see... Phillips head Screw (Holds the keypad in) Small Silver Potentiometer (VR1001-VHF Deviation Adjustment) Small Silver Potentiometer (VR1002-UHF Deviation Adjustment) Small White Potentiometer (TC1001-DONT TOUCH! CTCSS Tone Adjustment!!!) Phillips head Screw (Holds the keypad in) 4. Take a small Phillips head Screwdriver and turn both VR1001 and VR1002 about 1/8 turn clockwise. This will increase the VHF and UHF deviation and fix the low Tx audio problem. If it's not enough Tx audio, simply turn both pots another 1/8 turn. Make sure to turn both pots the same amount! 5. Replace the NiCd sticker, battery, and antenna. 6. You're Done! Internal System Alignment (May not work on some radios) NOTE: This setting appears to work on radios that have NO MEMORIES programmed. You might want to try STEP 3 before clearing your memories. If step 3 doesn't work, you probably need to clear your memories. BE CAREFUL with these settings... it's possible to really mess the rig up by setting some funky squelch or something... you might want to write the default settings for your rig down. 1. Select 2m VFO frequency. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Push LAMP, PTT, Knob, and PWR at the same time. The rig will turn on with the squelch open, so turn the volume down! 4. The '50 will display "BAND xxxxxx" where xxxx may differ depending on your radio and whatever mods you may have performed. 5. Turn the top knob. There are a variety of settings available. Here is a listing of them: * HSSQ: Squelch Hysteresis Adjustment, adjusted by the dial. * THSQ: Squelch Preset Threshold * TISQ: Squelch Preset Tight * S1LV: Low-Scale S-1 Adjustment. * S9LV: S-Meter Full Scale Adjustment. * HIPO: Hi Transmit Power Adjustment: Should be calibrated for 5W (Can be pushed higher with a 13.8V Supply) * L3PO: Level 3 Power Adjustment: Should be adjusted for 2.8W. * L2PO: Level 2 Power Adjustment: Should be adjusted for 1W. * L1PO: Level 1 Power Adjustment: Should be adjusted for .1W. 6. Select the adjustment you wish. 7. Push in the Top knob. There will be a "s" that appears next to the displayed number. 8. Rotate the knob to change the setting. 9. Change other settings, if desired. 10. Push the knob for more than 1 sec to save the profile. 11. Select 440 VFO frequency. 12. Repeat Steps 3-10 to adjust the UHF Settings. UHF Settings will have a "U" in front of them. Modifications The FT-50 is extremely easy to modify. The first modification is performed for you at the factory... but for those of you who accidently disabled it, or changed it... here it is. Extended U.S. Receive Mod (Expands receive from 144-148 & 430-450 to 76-200, 380-500, 800-999 'cell blocked') NOTE: All memories will be erased. 1. Turn the transceiver off. 2. Hold down the Knob and Lamp keys while powering the unit on. 3. The unit now has U.S. Extended Receive. MARS/CAP mod (Extended Transmit Mod: app. 144-159, 420-470) NOTE: All memories will be erased. Don't transmit on bands that you're not licensed for!! Besides being illegal, it creates problems for people using those frequencies. 1. Remove battery & antenna 2. Remove NiCd Sticker on Rear Heat Sink 3. Loosen (Don't Remove) Philips head screws on rear that hold keypad in. 4. Use screws as thumb holds to press keypad out. 5. Remove screws. 6. Remove Keypad. 7. Under Keypad on Left Side there is a series of Solder Jumpers. They are labeled in white from 1-3. Only #1 will have solder jumpering it. Remove the solder, being careful not to damage or touch any other components. WARNING: If you're not good at desoldering, or have shaky hands, you might want to have someone else do this for you. It's REAL easy to damage the rig. 8. Reinstall Keypad. Be careful of the O-ring around the keypad. Make sure it's not twisted or damaged, as the waterproofness of the unit could be compromised. 9. Install sticker, battery and antenna. 10. Hold down Knob and Lamp keys while powering the unit on. (Extended Receive Mod as above.) 11. Completed! Super-Hyper Awesome Mod... The mother of all Mods!!! (Requires ADMS-1C software and MARS/CAP mod to be performed) (Can't be perfromed on radios of lot numbers 06 and higher, see above) (For newer radios,see below. I have not verified the procedure below, your mileage may vary.) Receive: 76-999 Mhz (No displayable holes!!!) Transmit: 120-221 Mhz, 320-499 Mhz (AGAIN, Don't transmit on frequencies where you're not licensed) NOTE: This mod will disable ARS (automatic repeater shift) and will set 2m and 440 repeater offset to weird numbers. Make sure you enter repeater offset and +- shift manually. Repeater offset needs be set once for the rig, then it should be able to be forgotten about. It will also clear memories. Remember above where I mentioned the ADMS-1C software having a bug? Here's where the enterprising and curious ham can take advantage of that. This mod will install the European band plan in your radio...so without the MARS/CAP mod you will lose the top portion of your 2m band. 1. Are there frequencies in your radio? Don't want to lose them? Simply get the data from your radio as it sits... you can "merge" the frequencies later. Save the file. 2. Perform the MARS/CAP mod as outlined above. Get the data from the mod and name it USA.RDF. 3. Attempt to send the same data to the radio. In the middle of the transfer (around 50%), pull the adapter cable to the PC out of the radio. 4. Thanks to the bug, your radio is now in European mode! Perform the Extended Receive Mod by holding the Knob and Lamp keys down while turning the unit on. 5. Now, the Automatic Repeater offset doesn't work. There's no workaround. Note that the 2m offset has been changed to 0.00. Go to the menu by holding down the knob. Go to SHFT, Option 7. Press the knob. Turn the knob so that it reads 0.60. Press PTT. 6. Now, turn off the radio. Put it back into clone mode. Read the data back from the radio to the PC and save the file as EURO.RDF. 7. If you want to enter frequencies manually or using ADMS as normal, go ahead. Everything should work. If you saved frequencies as above, open EURO.RDF and "merge" the frequencies from your USA.RDF file into it, and save it as another name. Then send the modified EURO.RDF (your filename) file back to the radio using the "template" file EURO.RDF. You're done! 8. To return the radio back to the U.S. band plan, send the USA.RDF file back to it. Note that I have no way of measuring the sensitivity of the frequencies or the output power of the rig outside of the ham bands. The 220 coverage seems to be very poor, however, the radio does display 220 frequencies. It won't transmit on our 220 bands, though. 800 Mhz receive is vastly improved. ******************************* New info as of 10/29/96; courtesy of Alan Judd, N6VUD. I was able to fully mod my new ft50r. The radio kept defaulting to the usa version whenever I pulled the cable during the dump. I noted a row of six pads above the three solder jumpers they run from right to left. My radio had five black chip resisters 0=in X=out (00000X) I noticed resister #1 had been installed after production. I yanked out that little guy, and found after performing the expanded rx mod it now would rx 400~540 590~1000 LESS CELLS NO 220 or 380. After a few hours of triing the ADMS-1C pull the cable while downloading to radio mod. 'Til my fingers got numb, I gave up on the cell mod attempt. Later that night, I was messing around with the software. I merged a file I had archived. When I started the dump the battery died at 17% thru the download. For grins, I did the knob&lamp power up. It displayed the "reset all" message, like it does when you master reset. I desided not to push the F key. Instead I hit the ptt, With my fingers & toes crossed I entered 870.000 IT TOOK IT!!! I now beleave God is Japanese. It does every thing except 540~590. Who cares about 50 mhz of t-band. I dont know if removing the resister did it or not. But I know the cable can't be pulled any more. The radio must loose power like a dead battery condition. Maby a variable power supply might work, dropping voltage to the verge of reset. Any way, my job is done. Hopefully this info will help others. My SN# is 6108XXXX ***************************** Game Mode The FT-50R includes an interesting "game" that's programmed into it. Here's how it works: 1. Power up the radio while holding down the MR key. (PWR + MR). 2. The display will show GAME on the left side, and Spd 1 on the right. You're in game mode! 3. By rotating the knob, you can change the speed of the game. Higher numbers are faster. 4. Press PTT to start the game. 5. Numbers will start to scroll across the screen from left-to-right. As they come, you are supposed to push the number on the keypad that makes a sum of ten, followed by F. Example: 6 appears, press 4, F. If 0 appears, enter 10 followed by F. 6. The game is over when the screen fills up with numbers. 7. To exit the game, simply cycle the power. Possible Hardware Jumpers? (NOT VERIFIED) From: bgudgel@eskimo.com (Bob Gudgel) Well, I went through all eight permutations while I had it open. Jumpers (from left to right) C=closed (soldered) O=open (no solder) C O O this is the way mine was shipped -- extended receive O O O extended transmit (mars modification) O C O looks like the European mode RX 140 - 174 no extended transmit Also, no 800 MHZ or 76 Mhz RX O C C same as O O O O O C RX 108 MHz - 174 MHz and 400 MHz - 470 MHZ no extended transmit C O C same as O O C C C C 144 MHz - 148 MHz and 430 MHZ - 450 MHz no extended C C O some kind of limited mode again (I didn't detail my notes) Basically, O O O is what you want. All other combinations appeared to be something less than full featured. This is as far as I could tell with MY FT-50R anyway. Please let me know if anybody finds any important mistakes here. Thanks Bob KI7IQ http://www.eskimo.com/~bgudgel