Talking
DIRT
With
Geo
or:
"Compost Happens"
Why
compost?
Composting of yard waste is a
good way to turn waste into a resource.
Savings are to landfills, the
environment and the pocketbook.
What is
compost?
Life, growth, death and decay
are part of the natural biological cycle.
Living plants convert carbon
dioxide, minerals in the soil, sunlight and water into energy for growing.
When those plants die, they
become raw materials for microbes, insects, worms and fungi to consume.
We call this stage of the cycle
“decay” and the end product is soil organic
matter.
If the ratio of nitrogen and
carbon are favorable, as well as moisture content, air, temperature and other
factors, a rich organic end product will
result.
What can I compost?
Anything that was once alive can
be composted. At our compost pile, we limit the ingredients to leaves, grass,
processed wood chips, garden clippings, mushrooms, and small woody stems.
Materials such as coffee grounds, food waste and even eggshells will compost,
but from a practical standpoint, these can attract undesirable pests and create
unwanted odors. Plants that have gone to seed, weeds that spread by runners, pet
feces, should be avoided too.
Large pieces of wood can be
composted but it takes a long time. It is best to store those pieces separately
and let them decay to the point where they can be crumbled by hand. I have
successfully composted the largest tree stumps using this method. This takes
years. A better method is to burn the wood and save the ashes for later use as
an amendment to the finished compost (potash- a source of potassium, a macro
nutrient). NEVER recycle
pressure treated wood- it contains
arsenic!
How do I
compost?
The easiest method is to bag up
your grass clippings and leaves, bring them here and let me do it. The larger
the compost pile, the better it works. Free compost from the finished pile
anytime.
There are two methods generally
used to compost, one is called the cold method, the other one is called the hot
or fast method.. I use the hot method.
We’ll review the slow composting
method first since this is very simple how most small mulch piles will be
configured. This type compost pile requires virtually no
tending.
They will still work just fine
but will be much slower, cooler and less effective for killing off the weed
seeds and pathogens.
Simply mix non-woody yard waste
into a pile on the ground and let it sit for a year or more. The natural process
will slowly convert the pile into usable compost. When adding fresh yard waste,
bury it in the center of the pile. The only attention is to water it
occasionally in dry seasons.
Fast or
Hot composting.
One product of microbial
metabolism (decay) is heat. By balancing the conditions to favor thermophyllic
(high temperature) microorganisms, the compost pile’s internal heat quickly
rises to 130 to 150 degrees F. At this temperature, most of the weed seeds and
pathogens are killed, but the beneficial mycorrhizae fungi and themophyllic
bacteria survive. It is best to recycle old potting soil mixes at the early
stages so that they too can be heated and sterilized.
After the hot phase is complete
and the pile cools down, the worms, insects and other organisms complete the
decay process.
This style of compost pile
requires tending, specifically turning over to allow air in.
You do NOT need a fancy bin or
container to create a pile. Containers look nice, and some have a mechanism to
make turning easier. Simple piles work fine and the bigger they are, the better
they work.
Necessary
ingredients:
GREENS- We need NITROGEN
containing materials (grass clipping)= protein building blocks
BROWNS- We need CARBON
containing material (dry leaves)= food
Bulking Agents- Allows
air into the pile. I use wood chips. Also Sawdust, straw, corn stalks.
Water.
Too much greens will cause a bad
smell.
Too much browns and the pile
will not heat up enough.
Just like cooking, a good recipe
will enhance the final product of composting.
My favorite recipe is half
greens and half browns. If the grass clippings are still green, count them as
greens,
If they have dried out, count
them as browns. At first I layer them until the pile heats up, then at the first
turning, I spread them out on the ground and thoroughly mix them up, adding
manure+bedding.
To this I add Bulking Agents-
materials that allow air into the pile. I use processed wood chips. These are
composted in a separate pile until they are partially decomposed but still
retain their size and shape. Also sawdust, straw, corn stalks, any bulky organic
material can be used.
New waste gets added to the top
of the pile and mixed in at the next turning.
As long as the temperature of
the center of the pile is above 120 degrees, it is working, and should be left
alone. When the temperature drops, it needs to be turned. If after turning, the
pile has cooled down, it is cured.
In properly cured compost, all
of the ingredients are indistinguishable, that is looking at them can no longer
individually identify them.
AMENDMENTS
Good soil, HUMUS, is a mixture
of:
Minerals (45%)- small aggregates
(clay), medium aggregates (silt) large aggregates
(sand)
Organic mater
(5%)
Air
(25%)
Water
(25%)
The Ph needs to be balanced to the
intended use, as does the sand content and organic
content.
For general-purpose soil
enrichment, one could use the product of the compost pile
directly.
We generally mix the raw compost
with sand and hardwood ashes to create a base for amendments. These amendments
can be peat moss, lime or manure depending on the usage.
A really good general purpose
potting mixture is the prepared compost base mix and peat moss, 50-50.
Where we live, a hole dug in the
ground for a plant is considered exactly the same as a clay pot. It has no
nutritive value; therefore holes are dug oversized and filled with the home made
potting mixture.
DO NOT use home made compost
products inside your home. Only use sterilized commercial products for indoor
plants.
George
Dowell
The
Program