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I awoke again to the steady patter of rain on the fly-sheet of the tent. I peered outside but there was little to see. The cloudbase was a few hundred feet above me and it looked like the rain would continue for some time. I switched on the K1 and tuned around 40m. At 0700 there were few stations on near to 7030kHz. I called CQ and Einar SM5CBC/4 called in to see how the night had been. We had a pleasant chat again. He was making jam that day, I had a feeling that I would be taking an unwanted shower. After my QSO with Einar I called CQ again a few times while eating my porridge. There were no takers so I began to pack up the things in the tent. Just before I packed the K1 I tried one last time and was rewarded with a call from GD4IOM, operated by Tony G4APA. Tony had contacted me before my trip and said that he was going out to the Isle of Man to catch the Persids meteor shower on 2 metres. Tony and I belong to the Stockport Radio Society. He had said that he would listen for me so I was delighted to make the QSO. Unfortunately his rig had no sidetone but nevertheless we were able to have a short chat and swap notes on our two very different aspects of amateur radio. But all this was just putting off the inevitable. The tent was going to be packed wet again! I packed it and wandered into the margins of the woods. The trees were impassable and the ground beneath them was home to numerous species of fungus. If you have ever seen those garden gnomes that sit on bright red toadstool speckled with white, you will appreciate what one of the toadstools that saw looked like. It was brilliant red with white speckles and shiny as though it has been varnished (no gnome though). The West Highland Way path heads into the forest at this point and I was soon striding out through plantations. The walking remained easy and although it was raining it was warm enough. I pressed onward along the military road until it passed c lose to a minor road to a farm. At this point there was a choice. By following the minor road I could cut an hour off the walking time to Fort William but that seemed to easy so I continued into the forest. I didn't expect to see anyone on this stretch of the walk as I would be well ahead of the West Highland conveyor belt traffic setting off from Kinlochmore. At one point I did see a rather forlorn looking tent pitched under the trees. It was poorly pitched and very wet. The path narrowed to a track and the forest closed in. In places it was nearly dark amongst the trees as the canopy closed above me. I was getting wetter and wetter again. It was along this path that an idea dawned upon me. I recalled reading that Gore-Tex - the waterproof material that my coat was made of - can become porous and that to rejuvenate it, it has to be washed. Perhaps this was why I was getting so wet? There was mile after mile of forest with no real view until the path joined a wide forestry road. Here I began to see walkers heading east. They were a mixed bag, some looked well equipped and happy, others looked poorly equipped and fed up. Pretty bad news for the later group as this was presumably their first day out on the West Highland Way. To encourage them I was pleased to remark "you've only ten days or so to go!". I hope that this made them feel a little better... Funny what happens when you're home and dry (well nearly home anyway). The track descended and views across Glen Nevis began to open out on my right. I could see the lower slopes of Ben Nevis but since the cloud base was only about 600 feet the view was not to inspiring. It was another case of head down and keep going. My map showed a visitor centre where the track reached the road, so I decided that I would stop there for a cup of tea and then catch the shuttle bus into Fort William - perfect. I arrived at the road and saw two walkers just packing their final items ready to begin the Way. I'm sure that my soaking wet state will have encouraged them too. Crossing the road I headed into the visitor centre. At the counter I asked where the cafe was - answer "no cafe". Hmmm. So when did the shuttle bus leave - answer "if you run across the road you might just catch it" and when did the next one go? "another 40 minutes". I ran across the road as best I could with a 40 Lb. pack and a fishing rod aerial. I waited for a while until the truth dawned upon me. I had missed the bus by about 60 seconds. Grrrrr! There was no alternative but to walk into Fort William. I set off and was passed every few seconds by another nice warm, dry family in their four-wheel drives. The road seem to go on for ever but in fact it was only about a mile and a half before I was in Fort William. I passed several guest houses and eventually saw one that I liked the look of. I went in but it was diserted. I stood in the hall for five minutes and rang the bell. No-one came so I left again. They will have returned to find a pool of water in the hall... In the centre of Fort William I headed for the Tourist Information Office. The office was very busy. I left my pack and dripping as usual went to the counter to ask about accommodation. There was very little left but eventually I picked a b&b. Here is the letter that I wrote to the Tourist Office about the b&b... The
Manager Tourist
Information Office Fort
William
Dear Sir/Madam Exceptional HospitalityOn Monday of this week I arrived in Fort William soaked to the skin after a long walk, backpacking in the hills. I went to your offices and booked some accommodation through your booking service. The choices were quite limited but eventually I chose to book at Voringfoss with Mr and Mrs Fraser. I was immediately surprised when your booking person told me that Mr Fraser would come down to pick me up. In a few minutes he arrived and took my heavy rucksack and me up to their house. Prior to that Mr Fraser drove me round the centre of town so that I could orientate myself for later in the day. Mr Fraser obviously realised that I was pretty wet and asked if I had spare dry clothes with me. Due to the arduous nature of my trip I did not. Mr Fraser then said that he would lend me a complete set of clothes. This he did; underpants, trousers, socks a shirt and even some shoes. While I showered he packed my soaking boots with newspaper and hung my tent out to dry. Mrs Fraser offered to wash all my clothes. I then spent an unexpectedly pleasant and comfortable afternoon in Fort William. On my return all my clothes were back in my room, clean and dry. Since my transport from Fort William was the sleeper on Tuesday evening, Mr and Mrs Fraser invited me to leave my rucksack at their house while I explored the area for the day. When I went up to collect it, Mrs Fraser kindly offered to run me down to the station- an offer that I was pleased to accept. Over the years I have stayed in a great many bed and breakfast places but never have I run across hospitality of this type. It was truly exceptional. I would commend Voringfoss to anyone. If you have an award for the best hosts in town, I feel sure that Mr and Mrs Fraser should win it! Kind regards
Richard Newstead
CC Mr and Mrs Fraser, Voringfoss If you want to stay in Fort William, Mr and Mrs Fraser be contacted on 01397-704062. So there ended my trip into the hills. On the following day (day 6) I took the train to Mallaig and played at being a tourist before catching the train sleeper home again. On boarding the train the attendant said "Hello Mr Newstead, was it too wet for you at Corrour?". Perceptive. ConclusionsI learned several things from my trip:
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