One is not likely to ever venture farther north than Norway's Svalbard Islands unless as a member of an expedition to the North Pole itself. Sitting at just above 78 degrees north latitude, Longyearbyen is the most northern airport on earth with commercial airline service. One quickly gets used to such superlatives here: most northern church, most northern sushi shop, most northern ATM machine. The list is endless. There are more polar bears than people here, and there is a constant battle to both stay warm and experience as much of the outdoors as possible in this strikingly beautiful landscape without succumbing to the cold. Though the islands are officially part of Norway they are remote enough to be considered an international destination, even from Oslo itself. There is passport control leaving Norway on flights to Longyearbyen but no immigration or customs controls on arrival in Svalbard; it's as if you have arrived in a place so off the beaten track that no one is there to care if you are coming or going. The passport stamp above is an unofficial stamp from the Longyearbyen post office commemorating the total solar eclipse that was visible in Svalbard in March 2015.
You don't even leave the airport in Longyearbyen without seeing your first (stuffed) polar bear in baggage claim.
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The view out the window and over the fjords from the end of our hallway at Mary-Ann's Polarrigg.
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With good reason, snowmobiles seemed to be the most convenient form of transport in this part of the world.
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Longyearbyen is a tiny compact place, easy enough to stroll around and take pictures of the gorgeous mountains that provide a nice backdrop in almost every direction.
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The literal end of the line. This is the road out of town, beyond which lies nothing but snow, mountains, and glaciers.
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Local laws prescribe that you always carry a firearm when leaving the town for protection against polar bears.
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Whale steak entree. Whale meat has a consistency like that of blended beef and liver.
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The most northern church in the world, Norway flag fluttering in the stiff arctic breeze.
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