Leyte
Leyte
Leyte and its sister island Samar lie in one of the Philippines' least developed regions. Most famous for WWII history as the location of General Douglas MacArthur's return to Philippines soil to drive out the Japanese occupying forces, the island today still remains blissfully outside of major tourism routes. Everywhere I went I was usually the only foreigner present, and the locals often greeted me with smiles and waves. One tricycle driver offered to take me across town for only 10 pesos, a price so low it would be unheard of in most other areas of the country. "I'll give you 20," I answered as I climbed aboard -- no doubt one of the region's first examples of reverse negotiation.
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It was on the eastern shore of Leyte at Palo on October 20, 1944, that General MacArthur finally made good on his "I Shall Return" promise. That date is celebrated each year in what is arguably one of the most pro-American places outside the USA. Today, larger than life figures appear to emerge from the ocean at MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park. I visited the park at various times to capture its many moods as the lighting changed with the day's progression.
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The sands of Palo Beach are a black/brown color and sparkle with tiny glistening minerals that give the effect of walking on shattered diamonds.
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Coconut trees and banana plants completely cover the island.
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Some graphic scenes from the Stations of the Cross at the western edge of the capital city Tacloban.
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Following the stations up to the top of Cavalry Hill brings rewarding views of Samar just across the San Juanico Strait as well as Tacloban spread out below.
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Built to the specifications of Imelda Marcos but never slept in, today the Santo Nino Shrine serves as a heritage museum. Each room is decorated with a different motif showcasing the various regions of the Philippines and different building materials.
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The people of Leyte were disarmingly friendly, and I have many wonderful memories of conversations with locals who approached me to practice English or otherwise just say hello. The lorry filled to overcapacity with workers who all shouted greetings to me as they lumbered past. The harried housewife with four kids in tow who told me how much she was looking forward to seeing her husband when he returns from Mindanao next month after being stationed there to fight Muslim terrorists. The smiling man who shouted "Good afternoon" to me as I walked by him at work in his front yard, then proudly announced, "I am fixing the tire of my daughter's bicycle." The boys pictured below insisted they pose for photographs before they let me pass.
