The Mediterranean island of Cyprus has been divided into two hostile halves since 1974 when Turkey landed tens of thousands of troops on the northern coast in what it says was a necessary invasion to halt the slaughter of Turkish Cypriots by their more numerous and zealous Greek Cypriot counterparts. The self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is recognized only by Turkey; the government of the south retains the island's seat in the UN and is the place most of the world's tourists see. Ever the contrarian, I journeyed to the northern half of the island in 1998, in part because so little is written about it in the West. For my efforts I have been barred forever from visiting Greece, at least until my passport is renewed and no longer bears a North Cyprus entry stamp. The divided island continues to be a major potential flashpoint between Greece and Turkey today.