Banaue & Sagada

Lying in the heart of the Cordillera in Ifugao and Mountain Provinces, the cities of Banaue and Sagada are well off the beaten path in north central Luzon, but the hours spent to reach these amazing places are well worth the effort. The ride north is not for the faint of heart; I shall always remember the minivan that creaked and moaned in protest. Gears grinding. Brakes that squealed and shrieked with frightening intensity. The smell of exhaust fumes. The back door flying open repeatedly as if trying to separate itself from the main vehicle body and flee. Being covered with dirt after a few hours because every time a truck or van went by in the opposite direction it would spray us with another coating of filth. But finally after seemingly countless hours over roads consisting mostly of dirt, gravel, rock and scree, the intrepid adventurer comes face to face with the 8th Wonder of the World -- the breathtaking rice terraces of Banaue -- and all the trouble to reach this spectacular place is instantly forgotten as you gaze in awe. A few hours farther northwest lies Sagada, home to historic burial caves and hanging coffins.

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On these mountain roads it doesn't take long for the traveler to notice city life is left far behind. The roads narrow considerably; here the path is barely wide enough for this man and his "pet" to squeeze by.

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For miles in nearly all directions, these amazing creations spread to the horizon and beyond. Built thousands of years BC, most of the rice terraces are still in use today. At night the deafening crescendo of frogs and insects delights the ear while dancing fireflies dazzle the eye.

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The windy road north continues up over the mountain pass beyond the second highest spot in the Philippines. A stop at the summit for coffee to warm body and soul, then the gradual descent on the other side to Sagada. Roughly midway between Banaue and Sagada lies the Bay-yo rice terraces and some more superb views.

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Entering the Lumiang Burial Cave at Sagada and examining the coffins stacked to the ceiling inside, some believed to be nearly 500 years old. Coffins were only placed in areas of the caves where direct sunlight fell to better illuminate the pathway to Heaven for the departing souls.

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Looking across Echo Valley to some of the clusters of "hanging coffins" wedged into the opposite canyon wall. Placing the coffins as high as possible is thought to bring the deceased that much closer to Heaven. Fresh paint on some of the coffins bears witness that this ancient tradition continues to have adherents even today.